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Savage Trigger

I have a Savage 110 and although I am not anticipating any problems with the trigger. I would like to have some advice in my corner if I want to enhance or change it. What would be the best trigger job, or replacement trigger out there?
 
I have had quite a few savages and put different triggers on some of them. If you are just shooting targets an aftermarket trigger is great but if you want to hunt with a savage rifle the only trigger to use is an accutrigger the only one that is actually safe and won't accidentally discharge.
 
You got good advice. My experience with a Rifle Basics trigger resulted in multiple firings on closing. Disappointing on a target line, possibly deadly while hunting.

The Accutrigger just de-cocks and does not fire if it fails.
 
Just a little tidbit, if you remove the action from the stock to lower the trigger pull it is very easy to change the POI, or group size.
Smart guys here have already done extensive work to help you out.

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

Don
 
John
I too have a Savage 110 and I bought a rifle basix sav1 for it. If you get one take a close look at the relationship between the sear, the trigger notch and the sear engagement set screw. In mine, they had used a knurled cone point set screw which pinched the sear between the screw point and the notch. That's easy to change once you know what's wrong but the location is also off. Not so easy to change. I should have lit a cigar with that C-note.
tommyt
 
Love the accutrigger! About two lbs.......... I don't want a hair trigger on a hunting gun (or any gun) and the chance of a perfectly timed, perfectly stabilized shot getting messed up over "safe" de-cocking is not worth the risk.
Even "target" guns ARE "hunting" guns.
Action screw adjustments that are temperamental for the three screw target action do not apply to the standard two screw 110. Tighten them consistently like any other action and you should not have a problem.
 
My experiences with the a RifleBasix trigger have been nothing like what has been described here and it brings a question to mind. What is the weight of pull when the trigger fails. Please keep in mind that I am not disputing anyone assertions or the value of the Accutrigger, I'm just trying to understand.
 
My only Savage rifle without the Accu-Trigger has a 2001 10FP action, and the trigger was replaced with a Sharpshooter Supply unit. I like it a lot. Otherwise, I see no need at all to replace the Accu-triggers.

Greg
 
With a little work the Accutrigger can be tuned nicely. Lightly hone the sear, like any other trigger. Replace the trigger spring with a lighter target version, and lighten the blade spring ( ball point pen spring, or cut a couple of coils). I like the tuned version better than any aftermarket trigger I have tried so far.
 
The 'varmint' version of the factory accutrigger is about 1.5 lbs.

The good ones are good, the bad ones......need replacement.
 
Try the Rifle Basix 2 it is totally different then the basix 1 and gets down below 2 pounds safely. I have not had any misfires or problems with it. I think it is the best option if you are replacing a non acutrigger trigger.
adjusting the pull weight is a lot like a jewell you turn the screw in or out to lighten or increase pull weight or you replace the spring for heavy or light they both come with the trigger.
 
I agree with CharlieNC. With a little work, it is easy to get the AccuTrigger down to ounces if you want.

And for after market triggers, there is also the JARD trigger. My JARD fires at 6 ounces and will not fire no matter how hard I slam the bolt.
 
I agree with Nomad about the Jard trigger. I have one set at 8 oz and it will not slam fire with any type of beating and banging.
The only downside to the Jard is that I had to mill out quite a bit of the aluminum block in an H-S
stock to get the sear to clear properly. At $85 it is a pretty good deal.
 

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