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Savage trigger & bolt issues

Have a Model 12 target BR and the trigger is giving me troubles. If I turn it down to where I like it best, when I run the action I have to be super careful or it disengages. When I turn it up it works without disengaging but does not stay consistent and keeps changing and I don't like it set that high.
Q- What are you guys doing to improve and fix these triggers?

It also bolts some what hard and some what sloppy.
Q- What do you guys do to improve and enhance the bolt?

This is my first Savage rifle and I ordered the target model figuring to get good craftsmanship. I paid $1325 for the rifle and don't want to put any more money into it, and shouldn't have to. Just tinker it myself or sell it.

Appropriate the help
Philip
 
An aftermarket trigger will do wonders. Don't scrap the rifle yet. Superior Shooting makes an excellent trigger as well as Rifle Basix. Factory triggers can be great or trash, roll of the dice.
 
Since this is your first Savage, some of the might be getting acquainted to the gun.

The bolt clearance combined with a floating bolt head works well, even though it may feel sloppy.
Sharp Shooter Supply has "Timed and Trued" most of mine, making the bolt lift 50% lighter.

That pound trigger pull are you adjusting too? Is the sear clean and dry?

Rifle Basics will get you to 4oz. for about $150.00. You should be able to get to 1lb. with the factory trigger.
 
Terry & X Ring

Thanks all the same but I asked my questions here in Gunsmithing to get advice on how to fix the issues, not how to buy replacement parts or send them off to be worked on by someone else. Like I stated, don't want to put any more money into it, and shouldn't have to.

I have some ideas already what I can do to address these things, but looking for other inputs and tips before I proceed.

Philip
 
Ultra,

First, part of gun smithing is using quality parts, so their suggestions were worthy of note.

Your trigger issue is more than likely caused by rough surfaces resulting in the rough, inconsistent trigger pull. If it were me, I'd stone the bearing surfaces. That being said, you'll void any warranty and you need to be knowledgeable of how the trigger functions or you could cause yourself some serious problems.

Take the gun out of the stock and make small adjustments and observe what's going on. Make a diagnosis and then find the remedy, that's the basis of gunsmithing. Good luck.
 
Ultra, it's a Savage, so in factory form they are exactly what you have and no more. In order to have a somewhat usable action you have to replace the bolt or have yours worked on. You also need to replace the trigger, but even aftermarket triggers are junk for Savages. The action will always be sloppy and there is nothing you can do about it.

If you don't want to put any more money into it, then you better learn to like it, because there is not much you can do to make them better.
 
You wont be able to get the accutrigger to remain light and consistent. What it is , is. You can turn it up heavier and blue locktight the adjuster screw, but eventually it'll work loose again. Best bet, order a SSS trigger from Brownells. (Don't get it direct from SSS, or you'll be waiting for ages wondering if they ripped you off)
 
Ultra -

I can speak from recent experience on this (and have a witness who may or may not have already commented on this thread ;) ). I have been using a Savage 12 target action for over the last 18 or so months. I have a Rifle Basix SAV-2 on it and have also had the action timed & trued. For a while the SAV-2 worked well,... had it set to about 7 oz but it would not hold a steady pull weight (varied 5 oz. to 12 oz.) and it always felt a bit sloppy (played with over travel for the longest time with varying results). After I had it T&T, the smith that did it recommended against setting it lower than 12 oz. so I left it there. This was back in November or so.

Starting in mid December, I have been shooting a lot more than I have in the past (over 500 rounds) and have seen (in the last 4 days) my trigger have significant problems. It started with a live round discharge upon closing the bolt.... after that happened just working the bolt (even closing it ever so slightly) would drop the sear. I took the action out of the stock, adjusted the weight screw and did several tests (hard closing the bolt,.. trying to trip the trigger in both safe modes, etc....). The pull weight was heavier than I would have liked but at least it appeared safe. I fired about 20 rounds and all was well again.

The next time I took the rifle to shoot (two days later)... I fired a few rounds and noticed that the pull weight on the last round was a helluva lot lighter. I worked the bolt (didn't chamber a live round) and the sear was dropping again. I am not going to lie... I was pissed. I am prepping for AZ in early February and this isn't doing much for my confidence.

Unfortunately it doesn't end there. This time when I removed the action from the stock to adjust the screw it was....gone. I searched for 30 minutes and at first thought it actually broke, leaving part of the screw in the hole... after more inspection it turns out it fell out. I still don't know how this would happen but I will admit that the screw was never loctited. Even so,... a trigger weight set screw just falling out is a 100% complete fail.

This is just my experience... I know there will be others who will claim this is crazy. I thought these stories were mostly because of a bad install, etc... but after witnessing it myself, I am done.
 
Ultra adjust your trigger to where you are comfortable and it is safe (functions with out tripping), make sure the safety is working then put a drop or two of nail polish on the screws, this should lock everything in place and hold for a while. Unfortunally the advertized pull weight of the savage trigger is not always achievable.
As for the sloppy bolt it is what it is, a little grease on the raceways helps and a longer bolt handle helps to reduce the lift.
 
The factory instructions tell you what the spring should look like on the lightest setting, and they are generally correct - lighter than that and you risk the slam-fire. The Accutrigger can be damn fine for a factory trigger, but if you want to get into ounces instead of pounds then you should replace it.

You could try polishing the contact surfaces and even reshaping them if you are so bold, but your millage may vary. There is a video from Midway USA where Larry reshapes the sear notch to make a target trigger. You may be able to do something similar, but that's at your own risk, of course.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDEDE23h0vg[/youtube]

I haven't had the screw come loose yet but I'm adjusted to the factory recommended lightest setting. I'm going to locktite mine now out of paranoia.

As far as the bolt goes, the Savages are intentionally sloppy because of the floating bolt head design. This is not a bad thing - they are just designed that way. Lap the lugs and use some break grease (or grease of your choice) on the rail ways and lugs to make it more tolerable.

Timing and truing may or may not be necessary on the Savage actions because of the way they are designed, but if it feels like its too far off, then people have had luck with it. Timing especially may give some benefits, while truing won't do too much due to the floating bolt head, but it can always help (especially if its really far off).
 
Any time that your trigger has let go, has the rifle gone off unexpectedly? NO
WHY
Because its a accu trigger with safety build in.
The rifle will NOT FIRE unless you pull on the trigger!
This is a TARGET rifle with a TARGET trigger that can be adjusted light for a FACTORY gun.
Every single one that I have messed with is the same.
The parts are loser then a custom action so to provide a safe feature they added the blade to the trigger system
I have used many RB SAV 2 triggers also and there nice BUT when they are adjusted light and go off un expectedly the rifle will fire. HOWS THAT FOR SAFE???
It is just the nature of the beast.
Try what I have told you a see what the out come is.
From the bench I have never got my target action to go off unexpectedly unless I closed the bolt fast.
GO SLOW and enjoy it for what it is.
 
Onebad06VTX said:
The rifle will NOT FIRE unless you pull on the trigger!
This is a TARGET rifle with a TARGET trigger that can be adjusted light for a FACTORY gun.

From the bench I have never got my target action to go off unexpectedly unless I closed the bolt fast.
GO SLOW and enjoy it for what it is.

You have contradicting statements in your post. .........and the term Savage "Target" rifle is a contradiction in itself if one cannot run and gun when conditions are "there".
Never-the-less any firearm that fires from any momentum without pulling the trigger is TOTALLY UNSAFE!
 
Thanks for all the replies!

After spending about 5-hrs and at least a 1000 bolt cycles working on the trigger I got the trigger to work okay at around 12 to 14oz. It will not break off consistent like other model triggers but got it to where it will function with out disengaging and is safe anyhow.
What I did to get it there was a combination of these things:
1- polished the sear, shoe, accu-release, and the pivot-pin
2- shortened and softened the return-spring (it was coil-binding and to stiff)
3- shortened the accu-release spring
4- adjusted, cycled, and dry fired the adjustment screw from as light as 6oz up to 2-lbs, until I settled at 12/14oz to be the lightest setting with out failure.
It now feels like most the creep is out and doesn't feel gritty, after polishing and radiusing the edges. The spring bind-ups and stiffness would not let me get much lighter then 1-1/2-lbs for good functioning until I cut-off coils, stretched and softened the springs.
My goal was 6-oz but will not function without disengagements under 12-oz without delicate bolt-cycling. So this 12 to 14-oz is as good as I an get it safely and with out disengagements.

Next I worked on bolt and cycling for a couple hours:
1- Lapped the lugs and the closer/open ramp. This helped smoothness a bunch, mainly the ramp.
2- Polished the retaining-pin and cocking-pin. This helped some
3- The firing-pin spring was coil-binding so I shortened it. This helped the stiff opening some what.
4- Polished the bolthead-shaft and baffle.
5- Tried messing with the spring washer, but couldn't conjure nothing up with it
Over-all these mods helped a bunch to smoothness and eased some of the excessive bolt lift, but did nothing for the slop.

Next up is the barrel, it needs some attention as well. It cooper fouls after 10 to 20 rounds fairly bad, and after looking down it with a friends Hawkeye, it is in need of a lapping of some sort.

Thanks all
Philip
 
You did good but a whole lot of "good".

I broke an Accutrigger last year. No fire. Never figured it out so bought one of those $150 Rifle Basics.

DANGEROUS AT ALL LEVELS!

The Savage Accutrigger, if tripped on bolt closing, DECOCKS the rifle. You get to try again.

The Rifle Basics FIRES the rifle on bolt closing.

I thought I had the Rifle Basics fine at about 6 oz. After about 600 rounds it went off on me. Not once, I was dumb enough to test empty and then load to have it go off more times.

Adjusted that crap to about 10 oz. and it worked and then went off multiple times one day. After I changed to a stronger Wolf firing pin spring it literally would not hold at any reasonable setting. It's unsafe. Simple as that.

Back to another Accutrigger. It's shimmed so you can touch the trigger from the side a little without decocking. But that's the key - it decocks, not FIRES like the Rifle Basics.
 
First, you probably have the "red" accutrigger. That is good for 6-8 Oz . You can spend hours polishing the working parts, but the simplest thing is to put a thin washer of non-stick teflon under the cone shaped accutrigger adjusting spring, That will tend to stop the spring from "winding up" under adjustment. You should be able to get a solid , reliable 8 Oz.

And, that trigger "letting go" doesn't mean it slam fires, it just locks up as the blade wasn't depressed and must be re-cocked. No blade depression, no fire!

After 2-3 years my PTA "red blade" trigger started to let go on bolt closing. I reset it after cleaning it well with solvent and LIGHTLY oiling the pivots. Works fine again!

It isn't a good idea to listen to folks who have no experience with the accutrigger bad mouthing them!

I have a SAV-2 on another rifle, but realistically it sets to about the same 6-8 Oz of the accutrigger and it WILL slam fire on harsh bolt closing if it is set too low.
 
$1325 is a little pricy when you need to replace your trigger or rework it..Barrel needs lapping and more then likely be replacing that..
 
when adjusting the trigger tension spring you can look at the sear and the trigger shelf. The sear should be in contact with the trigger on bolt closing. Light preload is a good thing here. From there, anything lighter will require stone work or different geometry.
 
Erik Cortina said:
Ultra, it's a Savage, so in factory form they are exactly what you have and no more. In order to have a somewhat usable action you have to replace the bolt or have yours worked on. You also need to replace the trigger, but even aftermarket triggers are junk for Savages. The action will always be sloppy and there is nothing you can do about it.

If you don't want to put any more money into it, then you better learn to like it, because there is not much you can do to make them better.
Spoken like someone who has all their equipment provided to them. Savage rifles are a good basic gun but with the proper aftermarket parts,including triggers,they can shoot right up there with the rest of them for less money.
 

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