Savage Target Action Bedding

[eas1949]

I have one final question before starting my bedding project. I will be using Marine Tex Gray.

I have also removed and JB welded the stock Savage pillars in place.

I have 2 sets of extended action screws. One set from Brownells is just threaded for the action and the other set is fully threaded. My plan is to use the threaded screws and with nuts and washers tighten them to compress the action into the stock.

The question is how much and what sequence should I tighten these 3 screws?

Thanks

Eric

 

[Will Henry]

While you are bedding? You should not pull the action down into the stock at all. I put about 4 layers of masking tape under the tang and enough around the barrel at the front of the fore arm to allow the barreled action to sit at the appropriate depth. The front screw is snugged up enough to locate the barrelled action then backed off 1/2 turn so the barrel and action rests on the tape at each end. After the bedding has cured and I am reassembling the rifle, I tighten the screws from front to rear. Float the tang, float the barrel. no tightening, no stress. WH

 

[tobnpr]

It's a matter of making sure the action is bottomed out on the pillars, and has clearance with the stock (allowing for epoxy) everywhere else...
Depending on the viscosity of the epoxy, more or less torque on bedding screws is necessary. Devcon putty, requires quite a bit of force to displace it as it's much thicker, than Marine-Tex or JB Weld.

Like everything else in this hobby, many opinions and methods- but I generally don't use action screws for this purpose (studs only for alignment) and compress the action into the bedding by wrapping surgical tubing the full length of the action.

https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...urgical-tubings/surgical-tubing-prod1221.aspx

 

[sparky123321]

I used commercial metal epoxy, action studs for proper alignment and pour the pillars at the same time using the epoxy. I apply sufficient layers of blue painters tape forward of the barrel of the bedding area and to the tang area to achieve the proper spacing. I then fill the entire bedding area with the epoxy, put the action in place and hold it in place while setting overnight with pieces of bicycle tire tubes.

There's actually a lot more to it than that, but that's the high level overview. Didn't get into drilling out the action area, release agent, plumbers putty for dams, taping off the stock, etc, etc.

 

[1911nut]

I bedded a few Savage target actions. I made sure the pillars DID NOT touch the action. Check out how McMillan does it - website. Bedding material (I used Devcon ) was over the pillars whether the pillars were recessed or flush with the stock action bed. Kiwi neutral shoe polish for the release agent.
I also used three bedding screws for alignment and wrapped the screws with blue tape where they went through the pillars so they wouldn’t touch the pillars when finished. Pressed the barreled action in the bed to get the proper elevation, tape around the barrel at the front of the forend to get clearance and I wrapped electrical tape around the action and stock rather than tighten screws, bedding screws are headless. Yup, float the tang. Modeling clay and several wraps of tape around the barrel nut, I didn’t bed forward of the recoil lug.

It worked for me pretty good.....