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Savage Model 12 trigger

Jo_Smith

Gold $$ Contributor
I am trying to figure out what aftermarket trigger to go with in my Model 12. The factory trigger keeps kicking the the safety blade over once the gun warms up. It is a 6mm Dasher BR rifle and the trigger is set pretty light and when I set it heavier it just does not feel right. The rifle was built really well and it groups amazing but the accutrigger keeps kicking over if I am off a little with my pull and it is starting to really screw with me.

I am not sure if this is the forum area to post this question.

Thanks for the help,

Jo
 
You might want to also take your question/issue to SavageShooters.com. Great site for all things Savage. With a Model 12, you`ll go to the 110 subforum.
Just FWIW, I have a Model 12 LRPV in .223. 1100 rounds through it, love it.
 
Using trigger shims will cure the problem of the accutrigger kicking into lock.

Measure the trigger pin diameter and order an assortment of Shim sizes.


I have shimmed 2 Savage M-12 triggers. The trigger housing have a sloppy fit for the trigger. Shimming between the trigger and trigger housing will take care of the side play and the Accutrigger side trip trigger lock.

My trigger is set for 12 oz's. it can go lower but I like 12 oz's, as I shoot mid-range F-Class.
 
If you want to see more discussion on this See....

 
Accutriggers are a hit or miss. I’ve got a silver one that works well and a red blade on a target actions that is super light and has never dropped the sear on close. I’ve shimmed most of them in the past. Sometimes it helps but sometimes you just get a bad one. I’ve got 2 Jards and one rifle basix. I prefer the Jard because they are self contained and have their own sear.
 
Got in a discussion last week with a fellow on the subject. He proceeded to explain to me why the accu trigger is so inferior and that the blade was of little use. He took his blade out, as he told me that the blade moved the gun before he contacted the trigger,…..? How does a few ounce trigger move an at least 8+lb gun, must be on bearings.
Those that remove the blade, I cringe.
I have been able to shim some, then others are what they are.
Replacing the “whole” trigger is what needs done from my findings if you go that way.
 
First off, if the blade is tripping it is because the trigger is being pulled with some sideways movement and not straight back. That is what it is designed to do! It isn’t a problem with the trigger! It’s a problem with the shooters trigger pull. Kinda hard not to do sometimes but adding the shims that others have mentioned all but eliminates this issue. Most of the time just adding a half to a full turn on the adjustment also cures it. Removing the blade is a stupid idea as then the gun will accidental fire when the trigger pull is wrong.
As for replacements the Rifle Basix Sav2 is a great trigger. Some say it is a pain to adjust, but when adjusted correctly works very well for a bench only gun. For field use I like to use the Sav1.
 
With my F-T/R, I removed the blade and turned the trigger spring to go as low as it would go. I put my finger behind the trigger before closing the bolt. As good or better than any after market trigger out there. About 2-3 oz.
 

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