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savage barrel swap

First, a small-shank, 6BR barrel, a .473 bolthead and a set of headspace gauges. Second, a barrel nut wrench and a barrel vise. Third, read this article. There are also Youtube videos that explain it pretty clearly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsM6_J8doIE
 
Steve,

I've done it often and an action wrench works much better than a barrel vise. My barrel vise hasn't seen the light of day for a long time when swapping Savage barrels!
Note to original poster ttfreestyle: use an action wrench that fits over the receiver ring for removing a factory barrel for the first time (they are really tight, and you do not want to twist your receiver). When reinstalling a barrel, there is no need to make them gorilla tight. About 30 ft/lbs. is right. Then in the future you can use a rear entry action wrench. Have fun. This one of the joys of a Savage action.
 
Joe,

I have two 12fs, five large shank barrels and think a barrel vise is the better approach. But, if an action wrench works, great. My preference is 65 lb-ft torque but whatever will prevent the nut from inadvertently turning will do the job.

As for action wrenches, I recommend the Surgeon port entry wrench. That is what I use on my 700, 40XBR, Pierce and Borden actions. It will work on many Savages but not the 12F, the port is too small. :( A receiver ring wrench will also work fine and keeps the load path short.
 
Google "McRee Precision"....they sell the best stainless barrel nut wrench...and costs less than others out there.
 

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