Savage Barrel Block Actions

[warthog97]

I'm hoping Mysticplayer chimes in on this. I read the right up on Jerry's gun of the week and am fascinated by the concept of the block action. What happens to the recoil lug? Does a channel get machined into the block, or does it become a spare part?
I wish I had the skills to make $50 of plywood come out looking like that stock did! My $50 of plywood would become firewood! :cry: -bnw

 

[JDJones]

Not Jerry but I'll give my 2 cents on the barrel block issue. From the guns I have seen and delt with the recoiul lug was eliminated bacause its not needed with the block being secured into the stock, te clamping force or being glued in will hold the barreled action suffecienty into the block to not need a lug. I have seen block both screwed and bolted to the stock, typicaly from what I have delt with the two piece blocks that clamp the barrel have the bottom section glued and sometimes glued and screwed to the stock and the top have releases so that the barreled action can be removed.

 

[warthog97]

JDJones? As in SSK Industries, JDJones? Thanks for taking the time to share your incites! -bnw

 

[mysticplayer]

No recoil lug needed. The block has plenty of clamping/holding force to keep everything in its place.

There seems to be two schools of thought on the sizing of the bore of the block. One is to be a bit oversized then glue in. The other is for an interference fit ie metal on metal.

I am in the metal on metal crowd. I use alot of epoxy in other hobbies and have seen it soften under heat. Then solidify when it cools. That will allow things to shift over time and useage. F class rifles get very hot.

As you see in the article, my uppers are not glued to the stock. Just bedded at the rear so there is contact with the stock. Using two bolts, there has been zero issue with movement or POI shifts of any kind. I can swap uppers in 1 min.

I appreciate your kinds thoughts on my stock. First off the plywood cost me ZIP as I was using scraps from a home reno. It would cost you about $10 to buy the needed plywood from a lumber store.

$50 would cover all the other stuff like glue, fillers and paint.

Because there is no inletting involved, making this stock is really easy. Just keep everything flat and square so that the block will mate properly.

The hole for the trigger group was cut out using Forster drill bits and a drill press. A bit of Dremel work to get rid of any interfering bumps. It is well oversized as the action/trigger group must not touch anything. That makes it even easier to do.

From there you just sand/grind away until it fits your body. Oops are easily resolved with filler and once painted, look like it was done by a pro.

The filling and paint prep is the most labourious. Again, not hard to do but it takes time and alot of sanding. Once the surface is prepped, just shoot with spray cans and voila...custom stock in every sense of the word.

Give it a try. ALOT easier then you might think,

Jerry

 

[Louisiana Shooter]

What did the barrel blocks cost you?

TIA

 

[BillPa]

I'm not Jerry either, but here is another...

I made this one to fit over the receiver ring the first few inches of the barrel. It was a Mark X action with the lug milled off. The block was split and clamped with 10, 5 each side) 5/16-24 allen caps crews to clamp it together. The block was attached using 6 5/16-24 screws through steel inserts in the stock.

Cost? Dunno....made it in the machine shop on midnight shift. Lets just say its one of the reasons M&Ms cost so much!

BTW...I made that one in 1984, it was my first 1K gun.

Bill

 

[Louisiana Shooter]

BillPa, you from the Savage site, right? I'm the same Apache from there.

I got bit by the F-Class bug and I ain't even shot one yet!!!!

Hopin to go down to shoot with JCalhoun in the F-Class match they have at Pascagoula Shooting Club in the next month or 2.

Saw the Mystic gun a while back and have been interested in it ever since.

The blocks seem to be the thing I can't nail down as far as cost go though....guess I'll have to talk to a local machinist and see what it'll cost me and see if I would like to try this route or not.

 

[mysticplayer]

There are gunsmiths that still make blocks. See anyone tied to unlimited 1000yd BR rifles.

I would estimate $200 to 300 depending on what you want.

Mine was a friend who I traded some stuff for.

Jerry

 

[JDJones]

warthog97, I'm not that J.D. Jones I do a bit of gun work though, I used the first two initals and last name without even thinking about the confusion it might cause, I've tried to contact the web master and have my name changed but never got any response

As for your barrel block, I use a smith out of center North Dakota that makessome nice blocks and has a few pics with Savages in them on his web site.

Check out www.straightshotgunsmithing.com, Nate builds so gerat rifles also.

 

[BillPa]

Yeah Apache, same "wackco"

 

[warthog97]

JDJones, sorry for the confusion. I've noticed some heavy hitters on this forum, assumed wrong. Anyway, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge nontheless.

Billpa, that's a nice looking rifle you made there. Did you make the stock too?

-bnw

 

[BillPa]

No bn, it was one I picked up from Gene Graybill, a Laudenslager IIRC.

Bill

 

[Jamiethesquid]

What about the barrel nut on the Savage, is it still used?

 

[Shawnba67]

What about the barrel nut on the Savage, is it still used?

Id bet not, would be much harder to get everything lined up since the block/barrel is imobile and timed like a recoil lug. Also since the block is a custom fit up your paying full price anyway.
Also you dredged up an 11yr old thread! Gotta use all CAPS for necro threads or they cant hear you.

 

[Earnhardt]

Holy zombie thread revival batman!!!

 

[Jamiethesquid]

I realize that this is an 11 year old thread, just trying to figure out the Savage barrel block, and cost is not really a factor as I will be doing all the work in my home shop, on my lathe. Thanks for any input.

 

[rgc54]

I make mine out of 2 x 2 6061 aluminum 8" long. drill them then bore them to final size then drill,tap, and saw cut. Fun to make, no need for a recoil lug the block will do that. Chamber the barrellike a remington with a shoulder no need for the nut

 

[Jamiethesquid]

RGC54. Thank you so much for the reply! I knew this was an old thread but I was hoping that someone like you, and the other great folks I’ve talked with on this forum would set me straight. I guess I was just under the assumption that without the nut or something to tighten up against the receiver would unscrew itself.

 

[rgc54]

You would have to have a shoulder headspaced barrel NOT the barrel nut barrel

 

[Jamiethesquid]

Understood. Thanks for the insight. I may just counter bore the block for the nut. But I am thinking about boring this section with clearance around the nut so I don’t have to worry about the ID and the OD of the nut being concentric