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Savage action torque

I have a new stock on the way for my Savage 110, 280 AI. I remember reading somewhere about Savage actions needing to be carefully torqued to get the best accuracy. I was wondering if anyone can give me a torque range where I should be experimenting.

Ken
 
Laurie said:
It's here

http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

a very useful feature by Team Savage shooter, Stan Pate.

+1 - Last week a good friend forwarded me to Stan's commentary. In reading Stan Pate's comments, I believe his method addresses the specific rifle's likes as opposed to a hard and fast or predetermined torque value to help optimized the performance of that rifle and stock working together (regardless of the make or style of stock). Just my take for something I'm going to do with my Savages that already shoot extremely well.

Alex
 
My stock has the full bedding blocks. I'll do what Stan says and start at 20 in/lb and work up shooting a groups at each stage until i hit that sweet spot. Going to try a Hogue molded over stock. A friend swears by them
 
I think that article is more related to the target actions with 3 screws. Your 110 only has 2. I have typically gone with 30-35 in/lbs on the front action screw & about 5-7in/lbs less on the rear action screw. You can also try shooting with the rear action screw loose to see if there is a bedding problem on your front action area & recoil lug. I've never ran through much of an experiment with the tang being floated vs not, but from what I understand Savages don't like to have the tang bedded or touching. I did have one that would not shoot with the tang bedded & have floated all of mine since then.
 
oh, and btw, if you want to start with the stock that has the aluminum bedding block, I would skim coat it with glass. You could easily have it shift around from shot to shot at only 20 in/lbs. I believe you can go to a much higher torque with the bedding block (around 50-60). Just my thoughts. Good luck
 
Thanks JMD, I'll try it a various torques. Do you have any trouble with the rear screw working loose with such a light torque setting?
 
I have SSS HBR's lamanite's.

I tighten all of them the same.

Target Actions: 30 in lbs on the front two, and 20 in lbs on the rear bolt.
 
Well most of my front screws are at 33in/lbs with the rear at 28"/lbs and I haven't had any issues with rear screw working loose. Even if it did work loose it shouldn't cause major accuracy problems if the front is properly bedded and tightened. I did have issues with one that was set at 30 in the front and 25 in the rear. This was a heavy recoil gun & the front would actually wiggle loose after around 20 rounds & need retightened. PITA... Ended up settling at 35 and 30 with a minimal loss of accuracy so I didn't have to worry about checking the screws. Best of luck. I hope this helps
 
Seabeeken,
I forgot to mention that you should go higher on the torque with your aluminum V bedding block if you don't glass it. Mine are all laminates
 
The stock came in today and the maker recommends 55 in/lbs on the front screw and 15 on the rear. That seems heavy. I'll work up to it checking groups on the way.
 
SeabeeKen said:
The stock came in today and the maker recommends 55 in/lbs on the front screw and 15 on the rear. That seems heavy. I'll work up to it checking groups on the way.

I use 65" lbs for all three and it shoots well. Though i might change to see what Stan Pates method does for me. Mine is the F-Class Laminated Stock w/pillars and i also bedded. ..... LARRY
 

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