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Savage 110E .270 win

I have a .270 savage 110 and I am trying to hunt moa @300, sub moa @200 and one ragged hole @100yards. Question is am I chasing a rabbit? Anyone here doing this consistently and if you do what changes have you made to accomplish this. This isn't my "old hunting" rifle and wont be either. I am just trying to use what I have and trying not to break the bank.
 
I had a stevens model 200 .243, that on a good day would put 3 shots in 1/2" and usually around 3/4". Most custom rifle makers guarantee 1/2" groups (hunting rifle), so to shoot 1 ragged hole at 100 yards would be a stretch, IMO for a stock factory barreled rifle of any make.
What do you plan to use it for? cliffe
 
To me one ragged hole is a group the size of the caliber you are shooting or smaller. Hoping to shoot 1/4 inch groups with a factory rifle is a pipe dream, although on Internet forums they all seem to shoot that small all day long. I've gotten groups that size with a factory rifle a few times, but never consistently. I would hope for 1/2 inch at 100 yards and be happy if it was 3/4 inch or even 1 inch.
 
A ragged hole to me is about 1/2 moa. with a smaller caliber I would like to see a tighter group. I shoot regularly and am not just a 50 shot a month person. I shoot alot with handguns and now am getting the itch to go Bench rest. I had a 06 model 110 pre-accutrigger that shot sub moa all day long with factory loads. I have had 5 back surgeries so I stepped down in caliber to reduce the felt recoil. This will be a paper puncher, I have enough good shooting hunting guns so my quest begins. Do these respond well to bedding? Is there a stock of choice? What can I do to improve accuracy best bang for buck? I know good glass is a must for BR, but what else can I do to control the shots?
 
1/2 MOA is achievable with the platform you have.. I have several of the Savage/Stevens platforms and several more of the barrels for them, some have been GREAT others not so much. In my humble experiences the best "bang for the buck" has been bedding. The catch is that you would be bedding into another stock ( if you have the Tupperware type) so, a bit of an investment by my cheap standards. Load work up is another area for great potential, but can turn into a long nerve-wreking endeavor. Again, just my .02 but it seems that an aftermarket barrel has great potential of shooting the load you want, but have managed to get good results shooting factory tubes once you find what they want, but we haven't agreed on the same one yet. Best of luck to you.
 
The 110 is a good action to use or start with, the .270 is a good hunting caliber but not known for the tightest groups on the bench without spending money. Being a tightwad and savage fan, i would simply change barrels to something a little more bench friendly, perhaps a .260rem. It has less recoil than the .270 and will be easier on your back, the .260 shoots very well for a bench gun and won't break the bank to do unless you want to.

An inexpensive b&c duramax stock would get you started there as well, you will need to clean it up and may want to bed it. Both of these are cheap ways to start but like any vice ... bench shooting is going to take your money and your time. Just how much is up to you.

Another way is to just watch whats for sale here, i picked up a 110/krieger/duramax/kanjar/.260 at a good price from here and am happy as a clam. blue
 
If you want a ragged hole at 100, ditch the .270 as I doubt it's going to happen on any kind of consistent basis. The BR guys will tell you "short and fat is where it's at". Not to say the long cartridges won't shoot, but a shorter and fatter powder column is more consistent and that's what you want.

But as far as a basis for an accurate rifle, you're not doing too bad. I have a Steven's actioned bench rig in .222 that will shoot .25" 5 shot groups pretty consistently. As far as changes made, I am running a SSS Dog Tracker stock, Timney trigger, Pac-Nor HV barrel, and have glass and pillar bedded the action to the stock.

If you want a ragged hole, you will need to spend some time and money to do it consistently. A stock with a flat fore-end is almost a must, though slightly rounded can work as well, but flat is better for tracking purposes and helps keep the rifle from torquing. You will need to improve the trigger, and a drop in such as the Rifle Basix SAV-2 will be fine. The factory barrel should go as well. They are usually far from the quality of a custom, and the .270 bore is more of a hunting caliber than a BR number. Look for something in the 6-6.5mm range with a HV or LV contour as the extra meat will help keep the barrel from overheating. There are a plethora of acceptable rounds for BR shooting.Though the short and fat rounds like the 6BR will recoil far less than larger rounds and are easy on barrels. Recoil will make handling a rifle on the bench much harder than a light recoiling round. They will pound you to death in short order. It's much more punishing than shooting in the standing position, as it is going to hammer straight back into you rather than push you back and allow the barrel to rise.

For a good, accurate, easy to load bench gun for 300yds, it's hard to look past the BR based rounds. The barrels will last a long time and recoil is basically nothing. If you really want to use the .270, it may be made to work, but will never keep up with a more efficient round. Efficiency is closely related to consistency, and you must be consistent to be accurate. The long powder column of the .270 doesn't lend itself to consistent ignition, as the flame has too far to travel. It also allows the powder to settle in different positions from round to round, as it almost always has a bit of empty space in the cartridge.

I have fired some larger rounds from bench guns, I have even screwed my .308 barrel on my bench rig just for fun and to see how it would do. The recoil made it much harder to control than my .222. I will take a small round like my .222 over a larger round any day of the week. Easier to control, and more fun from less work trying to control the rifle.

I too have back issues. Shooting anything over a .243 from a bench is uncomfortable for me. If you have had 5 surgeries, the .270 is going to be anything but fun.
 
GEDC0562.jpg


The above group was at 100 yards, the one below was at 350.

GEDC0564.jpg


These were out of a POS Mosberg ATR also. Sick with the .270 you'll love it.
 
WinM70270.jpg

I have a 270 with featherweight 22" barrel that has killed 8 mule deer in the last 2 years between 329 and 510 yards. It weighs 8.9 pounds with scope, sling, and bi-pod.

It is a great deer rifle, but not a great elk rifle.
 
swampfox1975,
I must be the unluckiest guy in the world because I have never had a factory rifle that woul shoot sub moa ALL DAY LONG I also don't see many .270's @ br compititions. Like Kenny said short and fat is where it is @. Save your bad back and buy a 6br or 6 dasher,you like factory savages? buy a model 12 br or f-class in 6br it won't shoot sub 1/2 moa all day long but it will shoot 1/4 moa or better for 15 or 20 rounds, let the barrel cool and do it all over again. THATS ALL
Wayne.
 

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