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Sav 110 28 Nosler questions

AndyA

Gold $$ Contributor
I have an older Savage 110 in 30-06 that is taking up space in the safe. I have been reading about the 28 Nosler with the 195 EOL bullets and wondered if this action is up to the task of this round. I will need to switch the bolt head to a magnum face but is the action strong enough for this project?
 
Savage used large shank receivers for the wsm rounds . I would look real hard at the diameter of the chamber barrel and receiver ring .
 
I have an older Savage 110 in 30-06 that is taking up space in the safe. I have been reading about the 28 Nosler with the 195 EOL bullets and wondered if this action is up to the task of this round. I will need to switch the bolt head to a magnum face but is the action strong enough for this project?

Strong enough - yes.

Long enough is the question??

Also, the older pre-accutrigger 30-06 receivers have a small shank bbl and nut and that is what you will have to use.
 
if you don't run a super heavy barrel, a light varmit at 27in would be ok. I think stress on the ring from large barrel dia is the killer for small shank savages I think
 
Same length as a 30-06. I used Stiller and Pierce standard long actions, no problem. Having said that, I haven't used the 195s, only the Berger 168 and 180 VLDs so there may be an issue with the longer bullets.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies.

Strong enough - yes.

Long enough is the question??

Also, the older pre-accutrigger 30-06 receivers have a small shank bbl and nut and that is what you will have to use.


It is an older Savage so probably small shank. I will measure up.

if you don't run a super heavy barrel, a light varmit at 27in would be ok. I think stress on the ring from large barrel dia is the killer for small shank savages I think

That is what I was thinking as well. I don't need to shoot 20 times for score, only the first cold bore shot is what I am after.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies.




It is an older Savage so probably small shank. I will measure up.



That is what I was thinking as well. I don't need to shoot 20 times for score, only the first cold bore shot is what I am after.
What distances are you shooting? You don't need those 195s to make it sing. A healthy dose of RL33 and the 168 VLDs going out at 3400 in to a 2" inch circle at 500 will take care of any miscreant animals out there. :p
 
What distances are you shooting? You don't need those 195s to make it sing. A healthy dose of RL33 and the 168 VLDs going out at 3400 in to a 2" inch circle at 500 will take care of any miscreant animals out there. :p

I planned on using it for large game at varying distances. Anything from black bear to elk to caribou to pigs. I currently have a 7mm RemMag but its not what I want. Knowing what I know now I would never have pursued a belted cartridge.
 
What distances are you shooting? You don't need those 195s to make it sing. A healthy dose of RL33 and the 168 VLDs going out at 3400 in to a 2" inch circle at 500 will take care of any miscreant animals out there. :p
I agree I put a 300wsm ona small shank but only shot 168 and 175s in the gun staying away from the heavy 200 plus grain bullets but I screwed it back out, not feeling to safe but I also heard 126000 psi was a max pressure before catastrophic things happen. just didn't feel safe when I could take a 110 frame and squeeze flex it in my bare hand.
 
I have an older Savage 110 in 30-06 that is taking up space in the safe. I have been reading about the 28 Nosler with the 195 EOL bullets and wondered if this action is up to the task of this round. I will need to switch the bolt head to a magnum face but is the action strong enough for this project?

As mentioned above, check your cartridge length against the available magazine length. The back of my napkin gives 3.500" for a 195 hybrid loaded in a 28 Nosler case with only the ogive projecting, 3.715" with the base of the boat tail at the bottom of the case neck. Savage actions are available that will cycle CIP length 338 Lapua at 3.750", but that doesn't mean yours will.

The large shank / small shank thing is a trading of material in the receiver to the barrel. It's only 1/16" on the diameter. The R700 receiver is the same outer diameter as the Savage and uses the same diameter barrel tenon as the small shank with a coarser pitch thread. Coarser pitch threads are deeper, so the tenon area of the R700 is arguably weaker against bursting than the small shank Savage. The R700 picks up stiffness just past the tenon though with 1.25" full diameter barrel, but even this is only 1/8" on the diameter over the large shank Savage. Remington chambers the R700 in 338 Lapua so I just don't see it as being a problem.

I have a Stevens 200 action I converted to shoot a CIP length 7/338 Lapua wildcat. The bottom of the action is opened up to match the dimensions on a Savage 338 rifle. The receiver is opened up to the large tenon diameter. Not so much for the strength, but it's easier to get a clean thread by just machining out the old rather than trying to pick up a thread and chase them to clean metal. It also allows working from known diameters. The large shank diameter does not extend all the way back in the receiver, it stops at the bolt face to preserve strength in front of the lugs. The barrel is a full diameter 1.25" blank. I'm not fighting the nut, I'm just not going to do any extra machining to install it. So this is the best of all worlds, the larger diameter finer pitch tenon and the larger 1.25" barrel around the front of the chamber. The barrel is a 32" straight taper truck axle. With a standard barrel blank, the small shank receiver is still stronger than the R700.

If you don't do the work yourself for entertainment, this is absolutely not the way to go. Having someone chamber a barrel for you might be though.

If you can find someone to chamber a standard 1.25" barrel blank in 28 Nosler properly throated for the 195s, I doubt there will be problems other than mag length.
 
probably will not have problems . but there was a change from small to large shank from savage for a reason.

do they work? yes
are they accurate? yes
was there a change to larger tenon? yes
why ? abundance of caution.
your mileage may vary
 
I measured up the action and it is a small shank (1.052 tenon thread dia. and .875 long barrel nut). The action has a blind mag and it measures 3.450 long so it should work for the longer bullets. I don't think a single shot would bother me at all if it doesn't fit.

Now how about a carbon fiber wrapped barrel?
 
I measured up the action and it is a small shank (1.052 tenon thread dia. and .875 long barrel nut). The action has a blind mag and it measures 3.450 long so it should work for the longer bullets. I don't think a single shot would bother me at all if it doesn't fit.

Now how about a carbon fiber wrapped barrel?

What benefit do you think you get from a carbon bbl?
 
What benefit do you think you get from a carbon bbl?

It was a question about possible benefits as weight vs. rigidity is the question. I am looking for first shot cold bore accuracy as the rifle will probably carried longer than fired. If a carbon wrapped barrel will yield the same accuracy, I can spend more effort on other aspects of the hunt. I no longer have the 110% to give to the hunts like I used to. Steel and screws have put a damper on my usual active life style.
 
It was a question about possible benefits as weight vs. rigidity is the question. I am looking for first shot cold bore accuracy as the rifle will probably carried longer than fired. If a carbon wrapped barrel will yield the same accuracy, I can spend more effort on other aspects of the hunt. I no longer have the 110% to give to the hunts like I used to. Steel and screws have put a damper on my usual active life style.

I recommend reading Bryan Litz's latest book before purchasing any barrel. He tests a lot of the claims about Carbon Fiber, Fluted, Bull etc. and really dispels a lot of the barrel myths out there.
 

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