If you want a "feel gauge" to use along with your go gauge, I would think that a case that has been fired with a stout load, had the primer pressed lower than the case head with your priming tool, and was filled to some point above the neck shoulder junction with epoxy, should do the trick. Obviously, this should not be used as a substitute for a GO gauge.
Personally, I don't think having to reset a FL die is such a big deal. If you want to maintain the same shoulder bump, through a number of firing and sizing cycles, you will have to anyway, because of increasing spring back due to work hardening. I purposely unset my die each time that I am finished with a reloading session, so that I will not accidentally over bump new cases with a die that has been set for a set that has been fired and sized multiple times. To speed the resetting up, I have a Lee lock ring (with a large built in O ring) on the die next to the press that is not metal to metal with the press, with a conventional split lock ring tightened above it, to keep it in position when I unscrew the die. The range of settings, needed for various degrees of case hardening, all fall within the range that starts which the O ring slightly compressed, and does not require the Lee lock ring to be tightened so that the metal of the ring touches the press at the other extreme. I have marked the ring in relation to the press to be able to better judge my starting point for an adjustment. I usually remove the decapping assembly while adjusting bump on a die that has an expander ball so as not to over work the neck by repeated sizing and expanding.
Of course I use a gauge to measure bump. In almost all cases, setting FL dies by feel is a really bad idea, and at best only imprecise. At it worse, with a mismatched chamber and die, it can result in excessive bump that will eventually lead to separated cases.