I'm finally getting consistent readings with the Hornady OAL gauge. I have a ruger RPR and I'm using Hornady 140g ELDM bullets. My CBTO is coming in at 2.252 anyone else have the ruger using the same bullets. Are you ballpark around the same? I keep getting different numbers unless I really jam the bullet in there then the numbers keep coming back the same.
Ruger RPR 6.5CM CBTO with 140 ELDM
- Thread starter Roach
- Start date
DHuffman
Silver $$ Contributor
You're out of luck here. These guys will devote a 25 page thread every 30 days or so to making fun of Creedmoor shooters but not a post help one.
I don't have an RPR but that sounds a little short compared to my Shilen barreled Savages. You're probably close though. If it takes a hard push to get a consistent number I would test back away from that number to find a seating depth out of the lands.
Last edited:
My RPR in 6.5 I measured as 2.270 with those bullets. Hornady's factory offering in the 140 ELDM measured 2.232/2.233 on average according to my Hornady gauge. I am sure that there can be variances in their production of their rifles of course.
Different strokes for different folks right? The 3 savages I've owned all had short throats. I talked to a shooter I know locally with a savage 6.5 and he's at 2.228 CBTO and was like "wow that's a long throat."
With the red anvil thing and proper insert it was giving me inaccurate numbers when I had the set screw, that titghtens it to the calipers, facing me. When I flip it around and push the bullet in firmly I got the same numbers 3 times in a row and called it good. With the way it is now it seems to line up straight. Anyhow I'll use the .020 off as a base and seat at 2.232 but I'll go down to .010 and up to .030 to see that shoots best.
When I measured a couple factory 140 ELDMs I was getting 1.190 -1.191 CBTO. That seems a mile and a half off the lands but they shoot really well. Better than my hand loads at the moment.
DHuffman
Silver $$ Contributor
Test in .003s so you don't skip over the sweet spot. You should see a succession of three or four groups where it comes in then goes away.
I'd start at .005 off and go away in .003s to .030 so you can see it come in and go out. If you start in the middle and go one way then the other it may not be as obvious where the center of the seating depth node is.
Might be worth it. It seems that universally the ELDMs are either .015 - .020 off the lands, but a few extra rounds is easy.
DHuffman
Silver $$ Contributor
It's more than worth it. It's not about finding a spot where they shoot OK or good, it's about finding the center of the seating depth node so if you are .001-.003 off on seating depth you are still solidly in the node not drifting into the edge of it.
Do yourself a favor, go to this link and look at the LTL (length to lands) Gauge. MUCH better than the Hornady Gauge.
I load that bullet and for the RPR and you are right in the ball-park +/- .00X's . That variance 2-3 thousandths can be explained by any one or all of measuring technique, chambering variance, bullet variance and something I am probably missing. IOWs, close enough. Remember it is your measurement and a reference point and for your rifle and you should be fine building from that. JMVHO
Thanks, that's good to know. I'm going to test different seating depths tomorrow at the range.
2.197 for me. Factory 6.5 bbl 140 eld
a tip - when the bullet is in the comparitor pinch the two blades of the caliper together lightly with one hand and spin the case to make sure it is not cocked and you will get better numbers. Also as Roach noted the comparitor is made to be used one way, without a round in it close the caliper jaws together and make sure to top- blade is centered over the hole, if not flip it 180 degrees. The difference is small maybe 1/32 to 1/64 th of a inch but if it is on backwards it will give false readings due to the case being cocked slightly
Daerider
Gold $$ Contributor
How much are you bumping the the shoulder back after each firing? A bolt action rifle that is not fired in harsh conditions only needs about .001-002" to cycle reliably. Also, if you have some virgin brass, I would check how much case stretch you get on first firing. you would be surprised how undersized new factory brass can be.
I have another thread I started here discussing the issue. My diagnosis is a loose expander ball and improper measurements using the Hornady gauges. Solution: I bought a RCBS precision mic that I use for other calibers.
Daerider
Gold $$ Contributor
I make all my own gauges and measuring tools now because tolerance in the industry is too wide for my liking. When I chamber for a new cartridge I typically buy enough brass (usually the same lot number) to get me through the life of the barrel and will make a go-gauge based on the smallest case in the lot of brass and bump everything down to that case size. This way I can avoid any initial stretching of the brass when first fired through the new chamber. This way, primer pockets will open up long before I have any stretching in the case head area.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.