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Ruger M77 MKII rebarrel opinions

Looking for some opinions. I have a Ruger M77 MKII .243 Win, (Zytel stock model), that needs a new barrel, or at least I think it does. The gun was purchased new in the mid-90s and I shot it a bit, but not much. Life went on and I now have the chance to really shoot and tinker more with my firearms, including this one.

Unfortunately... now that I've had a chance to really run it through it's paces I've concluded it shoots like a turd. I've tried just about every conceivable load and cannot get it to group under 2.5 MOA. While a relatively old gun, it hasn't been shot much so I know the barrel isn't shot out. I'm considering cutting my losses and trying a new barrel.

Ruger said they'd rebarrel it for $350-$400. I know barrel issues plagued some of the MKIIs up to about the time mine was manufactured. I own a few recent Rugers and they're all solid 1 MOA guns... which is all I'm trying to get out of this one.

So here's my question... if in my position, would you send it back to Ruger for a rebarrel job or to an aftermarket barrel manufacturer?
 
It depends on how much you want to spend, what your minimum acceptable accuracy level is, and who you can find to rebarrel your Ruger. Some smiths won't mess with them. If all you expect is 1" groups, a factory barrel might be just what the doctor ordered. If you expect 1/2" groups (or smaller), maybe not. I fully realize that some factory Ruger barrels shoot amazingly well. Then there's the rest of them. I would either 1) trade or sell the rifle and buy something different, or 2) send it to a gunsmith for a premium barrel. But that's just me.
 
I am of the opinion that you need to start with a shooter if you are rebarelling a ruger and have heard that sentiment echoed elsewhere. Some say that you have to tinker with pressure on the barrel but that’s a variable that is still a variable despite what you do with the skeleton stock.

Another common issue with that eras rugers are magazine boxes that are binding. Make sure yours is able to float around. If it’s tightly held between the stock and action that will cause problems.

There are bedding and pillar solutions for the mkii also, but they are a bit more difficult than a Remington is. I’ve only redone 1 ruger and it was a 1992 mkii 243 that became a 260 rem. It’s a great shooter but it was beforehand as well. Mcgowen did my barrel and it was a perfect fit without any other costs. I believe you would be looking at the Douglas contours as being the closest to the stock featherweight barrels.

Plenty more to share PM me if you are interested.
 
I was gifted a M77 that shot terrible (probably why it was a gift) so I redid it with a Bartlien barrel and couldn't be happier. The original owner is trying to buy it back but, It was a gift.
 
Not to say your barrel isn't junk,or that you didn't already do it, but did you properly clean it, possibly some JB bore paste?

I've seen quite a few customer rifles that were just neglected and 2" guns would turn into 1-1/4" or 1" guns with a proper cleaning.

A bore scope helps too.

Just a suggestion.
 
It looks like Prose is your go to guy here. I own a couple Rugers that do the job intended, but don't have any experience with the type stock that you have. From what little contact I have had with Sturm Ruger company, I would not send your rifle to them. Another thing is that IME factory barrels are a crap shoot. Even if Sturm Ruger does good work with replacing the barrel, it may not shoot satisfactorily. Definitely go with a custom barrel.
 
My m77 mkII (pictured on the right) in 3006 was about a 1.5" shooter with the factory barrel. I free floated it, still the same results. I pillar bedded it, might have helped but I honestly didnt wring it out too much. Didnt go to a 1/2" shooter so I sent it off to pacnor who rebarreled it with a stainless 24" #6 5 groove 1/10 twist. Its now a solid 1/2 moa easy shooter and I love it. The timney is a really nice upgrade as well.

X8exIaW.jpg


Pushing a 150 gameking over H4350, I tested it a couple times and the 57.9 looks like this each time so I am very pleased.
R6vsaRw.jpg


Im now working on a load for my dads old tang safety 270 (on the left) and so far I can get it down to about 1-1.5" so far still unfloated and unbedded. I will not pillar bed this one as its a royal pain in the ass to get that angled pillar in there with the bottom metal as well. Just a dab for the recoil lug and then a dab for the rear tang. Its super easy to do that minimal bedding. DO NOT BOTHER WITH THE PILLARS if you value your sanity.

Going from my heavy rifles to dads original m77 made me realize that my form for these light sporters was all off too. Ditched the bipod and put it in front and rear sand bags and put a little downward pressure on the forearm. It will go from 4" groups to 1-1.5" groups.
 
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Thanks everyone for the input. The gun was a gift from my dad, who unfortunately has passed on, so I can't see myself ever letting it go. And frankly, I love the look and fit of Zytel stocked M77's so probably wouldn't do so anyways.

For those reasons, I want to make this thing work but I don't want to sink a ton of money into either! I think I'll probably go after market on the barrel.... I'm thinking Douglas as Prose recommended.

One more question though. I too am aware of the strong recommendations to ratchet down the action screw. Anyone have an opinion or know what the recommended torque should be?
 
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Thanks everyone for the input. The gun was a gift from my dad, who unfortunately has passed on, so I can't see myself ever letting it go. And frankly, I love the look and fit of Zytel stocked M77's so probably wouldn't do so anyways.

For those reasons, I want to make this thing work but I don't want to sink a ton of money into either! I think I'll probably go after market on the barrel.... I'm thinking Douglas as Prose recommended.

One more question though. I too am aware of the strong recommendations to ratchet down the action screw. Anyone have an opinion or know what the recommended torque should be?
Well you don't have to have a douglas barrel if you don't want one. Most anyone will replicate the "douglas" contour featherweight, #1, or #2, which most closely resembles the contour of Winchester and Ruger factory barrels. Shilen, Mcgowan, and many more can give you a contour very similar to what is already on there which will minimize stock work.

For an exact replica, you can send the specs to any barrel make and they will match it perfectly.
 
copperking81-

I had a M77 Mk II in 220 Swift in 1995. Shot it regularly, kept it clean, bedded the action, put a single shot follower in the magazine...everything I could to improve the groups. Nothing got it below the .780-.800 inch range. Took it to a Varmint Match and during the sight-in, practice part of the morning I cleaned it, noticing I was still getting that tiny trace of color with every wet patch. Got disgusted and decided I was either gonna kill or cure it with Hoppes #9 Benchrest. Brushed and swabbed that pig for a solid hour before calling it quits. Two fouling shots followed by a five shot group @ .325! First and only time I won that match with a rifle. Before rebarreling, you might try gettin' jiggy with it.
 
Rebarreling a Ruger is just about as straight forward and easy as it gets. Same with bedding one. No different than any other bedding job its just on an angle. I have found over the years that Rugers with the light weight barrels seem to prefer a little fore end pressure. The magnums with slightly heavier barrels seem to prefer 2-3" of the barrel just in front of the action bedded and the rest floated. The last few Rugers I have tuned up for clients have shot well under moa after a good pillar and glass bedding job and the right float on the barrel.
 
I was gifted a M77 that shot terrible (probably why it was a gift) so I redid it with a Bartlien barrel and couldn't be happier. The original owner is trying to buy it back but, It was a gift.
how did it go installing the barrel? any issues?
 
What spitfire said clean with butch's or other good copper cleaner and JB after. Then see if it shoots.
 
I would buy a criterion blank and get it rebarreled bu a smith who does that type of action and understands a mauser like action. I have one to rebarrel myself and will next year.
 
First I would send it to Gre-Tan for basic blueprinting. If you can afford to do it all at once have him rebarrel it. You can either send a barrel to him or in the past he also had barrels on hand that you could let him source and use in house.

I would never pay Ruger $300 to $400 when I could invest that money into a world class gunsmith/machinist like Greg. I would get a Hart, Douglass, Brux, Lilja, Bartlien barrel and not look back. The Ruger M77 Mkii actions are fantastic what they lack is precision machining.

If the Ruger was made before Ruger was hammer forging barrels it is any guess who's barrel is on it and if it is worth a toot!

The reason the cheap cost saving econo Ruger American and Precision is so good is that in spite of all of the cost savings on those models almost all of the machining is CNC and the design is designed to be cheap while also being concentric and true. The M77 Mkii and Hawkeye are a great vintiage design but they are made with out the benifit of CAD/CAM and CNC. So even though Ruger makes a really good OEM barrel it can not take advantage of that with out first being blueprinted like all old action designs built with old technology. Remington 700, WInchester Model 70 Pre 64, Mauser 98 and like actions military surplus or commercial, Savage 110's and on and on....If you do not blueprint them even the best barrel is a crap shoot as to if it will shoot.

A lot of so called "gunsmiths" are craptastic and find many ways to screw up any flat bottomed intergrail recoil lug action. A moron can "true" a cylindrical action but flat bottom actions seem to boggle their mind! So be careful what gunsmith you choose for any flat bottom reciever or intergrail recoil lug.
 
I have a Ruger M77 Mkii VKT with the 2 Stage Trigger in 308. I have used it for Varmint Target work and when I toss it in my custom light weight stock for Silhoutte shooting for decades. The chamber is too deep but the barrel is amazing. So I have to set my hand loads out deeper but she shoots 1/4 to 1/2 MOA 100 to 500 with hand loads.

Factory loads I think it was a 2 or 2.5MOA rifle.
 

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