Ruger M-77 tang safety bedding

[bruno9]

Hi guys, I'm a new member and this is my first bedding job. I have a M-77, tang safety, 25-06 bull barrel that I want to bed. I've looked at the one video that I could find on bedding the older M-77 but thought it was to simplistic. Have read allot of articles and links on how to bed a rifle, and although I've learned allot, I can't find much on how to bed these older M-77's. Any one out there that has done one of these or can send me in the right direction. I really like these older M-77's and use them as hunting rifles, however I feel that this 25-06 can be more then it is right now.

 

[civil82]

I bedded an identical rifle (1978 manufacture date) with pillars from Brownells a few years ago. It all went together pretty well, although it was a little awkward with the angled front action screw. The barrel is now floated all the way back, also.

 

[watercam]

I have done a couple with no issues. I, too, used the Brownell's Ruger pillars and recommend them heartily. The trick there is to use a piloted drill bit as the angled screw hole is tougher to do with a drill press. Use the Brownell's aerosol release agent and lots of it (2-3 light coats) including the screws or bedding screws!. Put bedding compound on both stock and coated action to eliminate bubbles and voids. I prefer a paste type epoxy to basic Acraglas. JB works well, Marine-Tex, my real preference is Devcon Steel though. I believe it is so tough you will never have to the job again. I used to bed the first 1-2" of barrel shank but no longer and the rifles shoot the same (or better). Rough up the bedding area of the stock with a Dremel bit, be sure to fill holes open to the bedding compound with clay or somesuch. Remove the trigger and safety (or tape them off completely but that is not as good as removing them). Do not put the magazine box in the stock when bedding. If it is still cold where you are do the job inside or keep the work area warm enough for the bedding to cure. After an hour or two loosen the action screws (if you are using them) a turn and re-tighten no more than they were in case the bedding compound is grabbing them (don't forget to spray them with release agent!). Tape off the area outside the bedding area to keep the rest of the stock/action epoxy free. I have stopped bedding the recoil lug area anywhere but behind the lug itself. Tape off the bottom and front of the lug (most folks say the sides as well). Any bedding that oozed out and onto the taped stock/action can be removed after about two hours while it is still pliable and easy to trim with a razor knife.
Bear in mind that the area being bedded is about .050" or less thick. Use enough bedding to coat both the stock and action but know that a healthy amount should and will ooze out EVERY WHERE.
The scariest moment is when you try to remove the action from the stock. Do it as straight up as possible (a healthy sized dowel inserted into the action from the rear and the barrel make two good handles for this. It may not come on the first, gentle tug. Try again. Remember, even if you manage to glue the two together one can place the whole thing into a deep freeze for an hour and try again. Works every time. Avoid panic at all costs. Also know that I have done everything wrong at least once over thirty odd bedding jobs and always managed to work it out, you will too!

 

[bruno9]

Thanks for the reply civil82, As this is my first bedding job I'm a bit nervous about it, so am taking my time on this one. I hadn't thought of doing the pillar bedding and was just going to bed it with the devcon 10110. I'll look at the brownell's site and check out the ruger pillars and consider that also, just don't want to take on too much on my first bedding job. I have read that with the bull barrel it is advisable to bed the first 2 1/2" of the barrel to relive any stress on the barrel threads. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks, Bruno

 

[bruno9]

Hello Watercam and thanks for the reply, I will definitely look at the pillars now that you and civil82 have recommended them. Did you have to trim them down at all to get the fit that you wanted? I have decided on using the Devcon 10110 as that seems to be what a majority of people feel is the best product. The only question I have about the devcon is, is it available in a color that will somewhat match my stock or do I have to add a coloring agent and if so what kind.
The other pressing question I have is about bedding the first 2 1/2" of the bull barrel right in front of the action to alleviate stress on the barrel threads. One discussion I looked at said that the barrel/action should be bedded from the balance point back to alleviate this thread stress, what are your thoughts on this? It also said that it was not a good idea to bed any of the barrel on a lighter barrel as this affected the harmonics, but on a heavier barrel or bull barrel it was advisable. When we start getting into the physics of ballistics I'm in over my pay grade and just have to go with the majority or the most logical opinion. I'm more interested in doing a good job on this one then rushing through it just to get er done as this rifle is going to be a keeper. Thanks for the advice and insights. This will be an ongoing project and I'll no doubt have more questions for y'all. I'm keeping a photo log also.
The only other pressing question I have at this point concerns the tang area and specifically the safety linkage. When I bed the tang area I will no doubt have to block out the area right behind and right in front of the mounting screw area. What about the area where the safety linkage passes through? Should I block this out with plumbers putty or dremel it out latter? Dremeling the devcon sounds unpleasant and the answer seems self evident but a newbie has to ask some newbie questions.
Thanks, Bruno9