Ruger International 308 Win.

[Barlow]

I posted this on the gunsmithing site, but it might fit better here. I'm going to work up some loads for this rifle (150's) and I'm wondering if there are any accuracy tips on this rifle before I start burning ammo? Thanks, Barlow

 

[dfry]

well, all I can say is hold your breath! Seriously, some of these shoot ok out of the box and others need major work. The last one I had was a Lipsey's limited production stainless 7mm-08. Shot 4" plus at 100 yds with any ammo or handloads.

First shoot it with a known accuracy load as a baseline. Make sure all screws are tight to start and some of these barrels fowl rapidly. You will not get any accuracy usually beyond 2-3 shots.

Once you initially test for a baseline, if the accuracy sucks, start looking for contact points between the stock and barrel. There are usually many points of uneven pressure. Also, the steel end cap at the front of the stock that also encloses the barrel as a band can have contact.

Also the trigger can need major improvement. The action and front lug first part of barrel may need bedding also. But, analyze and do one think at a time and test for improvement after each change.

There is a lot of information on the web on getting some accuracy fromthese rifles, so reviewing some of those can help. Just be realistic on your expectations from this rifle, the barrel is thin and the stock can have terrible pressure points causing severe string. But, sometimes you can get one out of the box that shoots just fine, but usually 2" at 100 is anout the best you can get out of these rifles, every once in a while some can do much better.

After all the work, I ended up with about 1 1/2" 3 shot groups on the 7mm-08. Ended up selling it because I couldnt bear dragging that nice stock trough the woods. The Tikka T3 that replaced ut shoots much better and is lighter, not as pretty though, Good Luck, Dave

 

[Barlow]

dfry, Thanks for the info. I took it apart this a.m. and relieved the magazine box, and checked for slop in the recoil lug, it had almost none. Action seems to be bedded well as I can't notice any flex in the tang when I tighten it up or down. The trigger is fine, with very little creep, and I'm guessing around 3-4 lbs pull. Going to see if will shoot 125 NBT's and 150 Rem CL's. It's not my rifle so I don't want to start grinding on the stock. The owner is a carpenter and gun nut, so I'll make him do it if needed. Thanks again, Barlow

 

[dfry]

well sounds like you're ahead of the game! Like I said that steel cap can cause strigging if the stock moves/swells or if there is to much contact to start. I can't remember but I think a took that off once and shot without it to check for presuure and ended up enlarging the hole slightly that the barrel passes through, but like you said, I would let the owner do that if it ends up being an issue!

Dave

 

[dfry]

well sounds like you're ahead of the game! Like I said that steel cap can cause strigging if the stock moves/swells or if there is to much contact to start. I can't remember but I think a took that off once and shot without it to check for presuure and ended up enlarging the hole slightly that the barrel passes through, but like you said, I would let the owner do that if it ends up being an issue!

Dave

PS: heres a good article that gives some detail,

http://www.tactical-life.com/firear...50-savage-classic-rifle-reborn-_-gun-review-1

 

[JEFFPPC]

I posted this on the gunsmithing site, but it might fit better here. I'm going to work up some loads for this rifle (150's) and I'm wondering if there are any accuracy tips on this rifle before I start burning ammo? Thanks, Barlow

I have an International in .257 Roberts. I have never shot over .8 at 100 yds. for 3 shot group. Very important to shoot it slowly. Least bit of heat takes the accuracy away. I guess it's a combination of light barrel fitted close to the long stock. If I shoot mine with several minutes between shots, after all it's a hunting gun, one shot-one kill, you might find it does very well. I got this advice off a Ruger Forum and it has worked well for me. I have had it 3 yrs and 3 one shot kills on Pa. mountian bucks. It's my lucky deer rifle.

 

[Barlow]

I tried the 150 gr Rem Cl's with IMR4895 and had one 3 shot group at .447, the other 4 groups were in the 2'' range. Today I tried the Nosler 125 BT green tip with IMR4895. 46grs were .702 and 47 grs at .777 both 3 shots at 95 yards. 47 gr load was at 2814 mv. It must be absolutely cool to group, but the first cold shot is good to go. Barlow

 

[Prose]

well, all I can say is hold your breath! Seriously, some of these shoot ok out of the box and others need major work. The last one I had was a Lipsey's limited production stainless 7mm-08. Shot 4" plus at 100 yds with any ammo or handloads.

First shoot it with a known accuracy load as a baseline. Make sure all screws are tight to start and some of these barrels fowl rapidly. You will not get any accuracy usually beyond 2-3 shots.

Once you initially test for a baseline, if the accuracy sucks, start looking for contact points between the stock and barrel. There are usually many points of uneven pressure. Also, the steel end cap at the front of the stock that also encloses the barrel as a band can have contact.

Also the trigger can need major improvement. The action and front lug first part of barrel may need bedding also. But, analyze and do one think at a time and test for improvement after each change.

There is a lot of information on the web on getting some accuracy fromthese rifles, so reviewing some of those can help. Just be realistic on your expectations from this rifle, the barrel is thin and the stock can have terrible pressure points causing severe string. But, sometimes you can get one out of the box that shoots just fine, but usually 2" at 100 is anout the best you can get out of these rifles, every once in a while some can do much better.

After all the work, I ended up with about 1 1/2" 3 shot groups on the 7mm-08. Ended up selling it because I couldnt bear dragging that nice stock trough the woods. The Tikka T3 that replaced ut shoots much better and is lighter, not as pretty though, Good Luck, Dave

That's a lot of useful info.

 

[Beruisis]

I have the M77 version tang safety 308. I free floated the barrel, as much as you can & did a trigger adj., then bedded the action. It'd then shoot 1/2" group with 150 gr ballistic tips & varget (first load I tried). It would not however hold POI over a few months (east Tx area). So I lopped off the fore end & added an ebony tip so now looks like a compact model & I'm very pleased with it as I didn't like that sling swivel arrangement up front either. Just finished this project, shot it in & will see how it holds zero but I bet it'll be fine now without the metal cap.
B.