Loading for 223 semi-auto is new to me. Some once-fired cases that I purchased have the rim dented outward in one spot. These are not from my gun so there is no way to tell for sure how the dents got there but it looks like it may be due to the extractor. These dented rims almost prevent the case from fitting in a shell holder. For sure these cases cannot be resized properly as they ride very high in the shell holder. Is there a way to correct these cases or should they just be scrapped?
Rim dents from extracter
- Thread starter Tozguy
- Start date
jonbearman
I live in new york state,how unfortunate !
I just file them flat where the bulge is.
jonbearman said:
Ditto! Whenever I pick up range brass I use a case gauge and see if the base will fit when I insert it head first. A touch up with a file and the case is ready for the rest of the processing. If the extractor rim is too distorted for the case to sit properly in the shell holder, if you want to go to the trouble, just insert a pin punch that fits snug in the case mouth, put the case head on an anvil or heavy piece of metal, and give it a rap. That usually puts the case head back in order.
That said, I'm getting pretty picky now on what range brass I bother with. LC yes, most other, NO.
bigedp51
If the damage looks like below it is caused by the AR being over gassed, meaning the bolt is opening and rotating while the case is still gripping the chamber walls.
These marks are normally seen on carbine length AR15s and it has to do with gas port diameter and its location in the barrel. (port pressure and dwell time)
You normally see it on higher pressure military ammunition and not on lower pressure commercial ammunition.
Normally it can be cured by increasing the buffer weight or with a stronger buffer spring to slow down the bolt. If you slow down the bolt too much, lower pressure ammo may not cycle the bolt.
I have a piece of heavy glass cut to the same size as a sheet of sandpaper. I wet the paper and glass and then place the paper on the glass and sand/lap until the base is flat. The water holds the paper to the glass and prevents movement while lapping.
When reloading tight primer pockets are a must and below max load pressures to keep the primers from popping out and jamming the trigger group.
Military A4s with the shorter 14 inch barrel and gas system are hard on the BCG and fired brass and both take a pounding.
As a side note this can also be caused by the barrel having the wrong chamber throat causing an increase in chamber pressure.
These marks are normally seen on carbine length AR15s and it has to do with gas port diameter and its location in the barrel. (port pressure and dwell time)
You normally see it on higher pressure military ammunition and not on lower pressure commercial ammunition.
Normally it can be cured by increasing the buffer weight or with a stronger buffer spring to slow down the bolt. If you slow down the bolt too much, lower pressure ammo may not cycle the bolt.
I have a piece of heavy glass cut to the same size as a sheet of sandpaper. I wet the paper and glass and then place the paper on the glass and sand/lap until the base is flat. The water holds the paper to the glass and prevents movement while lapping.
When reloading tight primer pockets are a must and below max load pressures to keep the primers from popping out and jamming the trigger group.
Military A4s with the shorter 14 inch barrel and gas system are hard on the BCG and fired brass and both take a pounding.
As a side note this can also be caused by the barrel having the wrong chamber throat causing an increase in chamber pressure.
I've not had much luck with used brass from any source but yes there probably is a way to make used brass a more interesting proposition for me. For the limited quantities I shoot the financial gain over new brass would be only marginally worth the hassle. Not to say that used brass is not on my radar however I am going to be more picky from now on.
Hi all,
the fired once .223R brass I got show somewhat similar signs.
The rim, extractor side, is not broken, just lifted a little, while it's pushed down hard and inward plunger side, making it bulge too, so the case cannot rotate in a shell holder, just to give an idea.
Would these signs call for the same problem ( over gassed rifle, I mean), or should I look in a different direction?
Any input welcomed.
Thanks
the fired once .223R brass I got show somewhat similar signs.
The rim, extractor side, is not broken, just lifted a little, while it's pushed down hard and inward plunger side, making it bulge too, so the case cannot rotate in a shell holder, just to give an idea.
Would these signs call for the same problem ( over gassed rifle, I mean), or should I look in a different direction?
Any input welcomed.
Thanks
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
Might want to start your own new thread. This one is almost 10 years old.
start a new thread and list the type of rifle and bbl twist and length, specs on ammo
tuning the extractor/ejector is possible as is a adj gas block on an ar
Thanks for the tip.
This is a small lot of 223 cases I purchased by chance, not my own ammo fired in my rifle. I don't even own an AR, but a Steyr AUG. This kind of problem is a first to me and I was just looking for a quick answer/confirmation from those who know better and reading this old thread already helped a lot, indeed. Up until now the only pressure related issue I knew of was that of head separation. Expanding my knowledge is just as pleasant as shooting. Very nice to be here....
This is a small lot of 223 cases I purchased by chance, not my own ammo fired in my rifle. I don't even own an AR, but a Steyr AUG. This kind of problem is a first to me and I was just looking for a quick answer/confirmation from those who know better and reading this old thread already helped a lot, indeed. Up until now the only pressure related issue I knew of was that of head separation. Expanding my knowledge is just as pleasant as shooting. Very nice to be here....
Why purchase 223 brass. I can pick up a bunch off the ground every trip to the range.
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