Rifle Cleaning Products and Techniques

[Seeking_Coyotes]

Over the years I have done all kinds of cleaning methods. I'd like to hear from the benchrest experts out there your tips.

1. How many many rounds do you clean after when shooting?

2. Do you use a brass core bronze bristle brush, nylon, or no brush?

3. What are the best brand and size of patches you have found for 6.5 caliber.

4. Do you get better results with square or round patches and what kind of of jag (I hate thin patches that shed)?

5. What are the best solvents, oils, carbon removers you have found? (full disclosure: I love Wipe-Out)

On my new Savage Model 12 LRP in .260 Rem. I just finished the below process as suggested by Savage for their rifles. I used KG-1 to remove the carbon and KG-12 to remove the copper. Also, used Rem. Oil for the last patch each round. Bore guide, too. And Dewey rod.


There may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, however, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends:
STEP 1 (repeated 10 times)


Fire one round


•Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore
•Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
•Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
•Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore
•Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
•Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
•Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore
STEP 2 (repeated 5 times)

Fire a 3 shot group•Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group
STEP 3 (repeat 5 times)

Fire a 5 shot group•Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1
They recommend the use of a patch with 2 drops of oil after the cleaning so that you are not shooting with a dry bore. It is also advisable to use a powder solvent and copper solvent from the same manufacturer to be sure they are chemically compatible.

 

[LHSmith]

I clean when I start to see accuracy go away. Each gun is different. If you use bullet coatings , you can usually shoot an entire agg (50- 75 rounds).
Patch size is dependent on shape and diameter of jag. I use a .22 jag for every cal. up to 30. I just use larger patches, or stick them off center to get the proper snugness.
I use only quality patches, Pro-Shot, or Sinclair.
I use a good quality bronze brush like Dewey, and I run it both directions, but I am careful exiting the muzzle.
I use Iosso at the end of every agg to keep the carbon from forming.
I still use Butches Bore Shine....Wipe-out would be too much mess and too time consuming.
I also coat the bore with a good oil like Butches......NEVER anything with Teflon, which is in Rem-Oil......I want the barrel to foul (lay down a layer of carbon) quickly so that I can expend one round and then proceed with my sighters.

 

[fdshuster]

seeking_coyotes: I do not believe in a "cast in stone" barrel break-in, as you listed.

All barrels are different, so each gets the break-in that is required. I recently had a Krieger chambered in 308 Win., and there was no break-in required. From the first shot fired, there was no copper fouling. And, as verified with my Hawkeye borescope, the bore remained copper free.

On the other extreme, several years ago I had a new Krieger chembered in 6BR, and copper fouling was extreme for the first 20 rounds fired, so I was cleaning after each single shot, then eventually after every 3 shots, until, as if by magic, copper fouling stopped after the 20 th. round was fired.

I'll be the one to decide how much, if any break-in cleaning is required, not someone sitting at a desk, who knows nothing about the barrel in question.

As usual: bore guides used, one piece coated Dewey and Bore Tech rods, Sinclair bronze brushes and cleaning patch's, Butch's for "normal" cleaning, JB Bore paste for those few times it may be needed for copper and more importantly carbon removal.

I do not believe in cleaning to bare metal, since that always requires at least 3 to 5 fouling shots before the barrel starts to shoot again---- a waste of ammo & barrel life. I just want to keep the fouling under control. Others will disagree, and have their own favorite methods and products that work for them. The above works for me.

 

[Jet]

I've done a good bit of experimenting on this subjust over the past 6 months. Certainly not scientific but I used multiple brands/types of cleaners, solvents, gels etc and found as stated above that all barrels are different. Powders and bullet type used also foul diffently.

A bore scope is a must to verify your methods but be wary, it can drive you nuts.

Keep good records and let each barrel/rifle tell you what product to use and what method works best.

Good luck and good shooting.

Jet

 

[lpreddick]

cleaning down to bare metal? if one leaves a little fouling when the gun is accurate is there a concern that the retained material(carbon and chemical byproducts and ?copper) can harm the bore...pitting, rust, etc? if left for weeks/months is there more concern? when working up loads i clean to bare metal and document where shots 1-10,etc hit on the target. some guns print 5 shots in the same overlapping hole while some put the first or first 2 in one location, then the rest group seperately...usually very close but definitely in a seperate area. these latter guns usually do this at each session and they have foulers fired before shooting for accuracy. the ones that put shot 1 and 10 in the same overlapping hole are always cleaned to bare and taken to the field as such with only a couple of dry patches to remove the very thin layer of oil. one last question on leaving a barrel dirty (the fouler guns) i suspect this carbon material/powder residue ?absorbs moisture or gets a bit "fluffy" and pushing a dry patch thru meets a good bit of resistance, then smooth. patching the same gun when warm seems smoother. should i patch before shooting over the "fluffy" stuff?

 

[fdshuster]

Ipreddick: Without a borescope, any thoughts about the condition of a bore are all guesses.

My oldest 6BR barrel, a 14 twist Shilen, that was chambered 10 years ago, now with 1876 rounds fired (not a guess, I keep written records of every shot fired thru every barrel), has not a trace of rust or any other form of damage. All cleaning over that 10 year period has been with the products and methods as previously described. That barrel remains one of my most accurate for 1 thru 300 yard usage.

If putting away a rifle for the Winter season, typically November thru April, I will clean to bare metal and apply a light coat of oil, that will be removed in the Spring. I am blessed with a very dry storage area where humidity and dampness does not exist. Bare metal woodworking tools, untreated, do not have a trace of rust. I'm sure someone living in the deep South, or Florida would have a different experience.

 

[Seeking_Coyotes]

I clean when I start to see accuracy go away. Each gun is different. If you use bullet coatings , you can usually shoot an entire agg (50- 75 rounds).
Patch size is dependent on shape and diameter of jag. I use a .22 jag for every cal. up to 30. I just use larger patches, or stick them off center to get the proper snugness.
I use only quality patches, Pro-Shot, or Sinclair.
I use a good quality bronze brush like Dewey, and I run it both directions, but I am careful exiting the muzzle.
I use Iosso at the end of every agg to keep the carbon from forming.
I still use Butches Bore Shine....Wipe-out would be too much mess and too time consuming.
I also coat the bore with a good oil like Butches......NEVER anything with Teflon, which is in Rem-Oil......I want the barrel to foul (lay down a layer of carbon) quickly so that I can expend one round and then proceed with my sighters.

Sounds like I should ditch the Rem. Oil? I do have some Witches Brew Oil from Hollands around and some CLP if either of those would be better. I'm getting the feeling that a lot of guys like the Butch's products.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[artbosco]

There may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, however, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends:
STEP 1 (repeated 10 times)
Fire one round
•Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore
•Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
•Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
•Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore
•Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction)
•Push dry patches through the bore (2 times)
•Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore
STEP 2 (repeated 5 times)

Fire a 3 shot group•Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group
STEP 3 (repeat 5 times)

Fire a 5 shot group•Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1
They recommend the use of a patch with 2 drops of oil after the cleaning so that you are not shooting with a dry bore. It is also advisable to use a powder solvent and copper solvent from the same manufacturer to be sure they are chemically compatible.

I don't believe in spending hours breaking in a barrel. I follow Joe Krupa's method.

BARREL BREAK-IN

Joe Krupa … Fireforming the 6PPC.

"When I get a new barrel, I break it in with 25 pieces of newly turned brass.

I clean the new barrel, and then shoot 10 pieces to both fireform and break in the barrel. Then I clean the barrel and shoot the remaining 15.

After that, I clean the barrel and start tuning it with the first ten. I am convinced that you break in a barrel by shooting it than by cleaning it."

 

[LawrenceHanson]

To me, bore cleaning is a chore that is about as much fun as case trimming or neck turning. But I realize it is important to properly maintain a rifles bore in order to get the best performance from it. My method of bore cleaning has continually evolved over time and I feel I have reached a point where I can now get the job done efficiently and effectively. I won’t go into detail regarding my method; instead I will let the following images do most of the talking.

Good light and plenty of bench space make the job more enjoyable. Keeping tools organized and close at hand helps.


An assortment of rods and guides are used for different rifles.


An assortment of patches and jags to fit different calibers and for use with various chemicals. I prefer spear tip jags. Some patches absorb and hold solvent better than others. I like 100% cotton patches.


Chamber, receiver, and bolt cleaning are also a part of the job.


I sometimes use several rods with various attachments to speed up the process. Notice the cloth on the stock…some cleaning chemicals are harmful to painted and oil finished surfaces.


For light fouling I start by removing the loose carbon fouling with Hoppe’s #9 mixed with Kroil. This exposes the copper fouling that is then removed with Bore Tech Eliminator. Along with patches I use bronze brushes with Hoppe’s #9 mixed with Kroil and nylon brushes with Bore Tech Eliminator.


Bore brushes that are used with petroleum based solvents are cleaned in lacquer thinner. Bore brushes that are used with water based solvents are cleaned in a Pyrex cup using hot soapy water.


A look into the bottom of the lacquer thinner jar. Those bronze bore brushes remove a lot of crud in a hurry.


These are the cleaners I like to use for heavy fouling. Some factory barrels take forever to clean unless aggressive methods are used.


The carbon ring is removed using mild abrasive paste and a stiff nylon brush. I use a bore guide to prevent smearing abrasive paste all over the inside of the receiver.


A bore scope will tell you when the job is done. It is also a great tool for showing you what works and what doesn’t. Some bores accumulate copper fouling near the muzzle while some bores accumulate carbon fouling near the chamber. The bore scope will show you these things. This helps you choose the right chemical for the job and where to focus your attention.


I like to finish cleaning with EEZOX. It’s a very good rust preventative.


As for breaking in new barrels, I use Flitz on a tight fitting patch and work it back and forth in the throat just enough to soften any sharp edges left by the chamber reamer. That’s it.

 

[Seeking_Coyotes]

Great photos...thank you!