Review my reloading steps please

[gjb89]

Hello, can you guys and gals review my reloading steps and make recommendations on things that may need to be changed?

Brass is once fired 6.5 CM Hornady, will be loading it with H4350, 210M primers and 140 gr ELD-M.

1. Decap
2. SS Tumbler
3. Uniform Pockets
4. Bushing Neck Size or Bushing Full Length Size
5. Expand Neck to Mandrel Size
6. Turn Necks Using PMA Model A
7. Tumble again to Remove Lube
8. Chamfer, Trim and Debur with Giraud power Trimmer
9. Prime
10. Add Powder
11. Seat Bullet

I'm thinking I will need a 289 bushing for tension for necks that are not turned. Once they are turned I will need to bump down to a 288.

 

[Keith Glasscock]

Which bushing post turning depends on how much material you have to take off to clean up the necks.

Now, why turn the necks? What are you shooting? Are the necks that far out? The reason I ask is that there are a certain, limited, number of games and situations where neck turning is needed. You might save yourself some time and money not turning until there is a good reason to do so.

While I realize that bushing dies are all the rage, I don't see the need in many cases, and the more neck clearance you end up with, the more likely you are to create runout. I use a $28 Redding FL die for my 284 F-Open rifle with the expander removed. Runout = gone.

Just some thoughts.

 

[1shot]

On new brass, I do the primer packets after the first firing. After that the brass has moved to wherever it's going to in your chamber. The rest of the prep sequence looks good

Lloyd

 

[gjb89]

Which bushing post turning depends on how much material you have to take off to clean up the necks.

Now, why turn the necks? What are you shooting? Are the necks that far out? The reason I ask is that there are a certain, limited, number of games and situations where neck turning is needed. You might save yourself some time and money not turning until there is a good reason to do so.

While I realize that bushing dies are all the rage, I don't see the need in many cases, and the more neck clearance you end up with, the more likely you are to create runout. I use a $28 Redding FL die for my 284 F-Open rifle with the expander removed. Runout = gone.

Just some thoughts.

I do not have an extremely tight chamber, 6.5 CM rifle I had built my the GA Precision guys. Has a Bartlein barrel. Only reason I am turning the necks is because I was recommenced that by a another employee at my office.

 

[Webster]

Hello, can you guys and gals review my reloading steps and make recommendations on things that may need to be changed?

After sizing check each case neck for cracks.

After tumbling I look in each case with a small LED flashlight to make sure all of the SS pins are removed. Just set them up on a table top. Doesn't take long.

Cases in a loading block. After filling with powder I look in each case to make sure every one is filled. After I fill each case I move the funnel to the next empty case. If your interupted and come back you might loose track. Actually I never forgot to fill a case. I have forgot to move the funnel and double charged. Powder all over.

Check the scale hanger for for powder kernels, sometimes they fall out of the trickler. I blow them off with a dust off air can.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Looks pretty good but...DON'T FORGET TO DEBURR THE FLASH HOLES!

I always tumble first, anneal, then size/expand and turn necks. Will not seat bullets in cases straight out of a tumbler due to possibility of necks getting dinged up during cleaning. Don't need lube using nitrided mandrels on my 21st Century Shooting neck turner so no need to clean a second time.

I have always uniformed primer pockets as one of the first steps as well. I like the post about firing first, then uniforming. Makes sense because the depth will definitely change after a firing or two. Due to that fact, I use my pocket uniformer to clean the pockets after each firing. This way they get cleaned and any depth variations are corrected after each firing.

 

[R.Morehouse]

I would replace #2 with Annealing......

 

[Keith Glasscock]

I do not have an extremely tight chamber, 6.5 CM rifle I had built my the GA Precision guys. Has a Bartlein barrel. Only reason I am turning the necks is because I was recommenced that by a another employee at my office.

If it is ok with the unturned necks for the first firing, it will probably be good with unturned necks forever. If you were shooting F-open or Benchrest, I'd say give it a try. If you are shooting PRS, etc. I'd test first, then turn necks if needed.

In the end, it won't hurt to turn them, but the benefit could be quite minimal. The labor, on the other hand, is extensive. In the end, it is up to you.

 

[gjb89]

Thanks for the for the info guys.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

If it is ok with the unturned necks for the first firing, it will probably be good with unturned necks forever. If you were shooting F-open or Benchrest, I'd say give it a try. If you are shooting PRS, etc. I'd test first, then turn necks if needed.

In the end, it won't hurt to turn them, but the benefit could be quite minimal. The labor, on the other hand, is extensive. In the end, it is up to you.

"Extensive labor" to turn necks? Lol! Which neck turning tool put that bad taste in your mouth? Kinda makes me curious what do you do for a living where neck turning brass is considered hard labor. Lol! Just messin with ya

Couple weeks ago, I turned 500 case necks for a 204 Ruger varminting rifle that I only use to shoot gophers in the spring. Definitely don't "have" to turn necks for that rifle or many of my other rifles. I also dont "have" to want the most accuracy possible from my rifles.....

Piece of cake with the proper equipment and along with annealing, the turned necks make a hell of a difference for maintaining consistent neck tension

 

[1shot]

I would replace #2 with Annealing......

Good catch. I would annealing between#3 & #4. Regardless, always after cleaning and before resizing.
Thanks,
Lloyd

 

[Mozella]

My routine is similar with these differences:

I only uniform primer pockets and turn the necks once during the initial brass prep where I also trim to length and deburr (if necessary) the flash hole.
I shoot single shot only and collect my brass on a clean towel; therefore, brass comes home clean so I don't worry about lubing, depriming, and sizing first. That way I only have to tumble once.
I also use an expander mandrel, but I use a slightly under sized one as a last step in the sizing routine. This takes the ID to something just smaller than the desired finished ID. Then I use a slightly larger one in the priming stage which happens after wet SS tumbling and annealing. The idea of the second mandrel step is to expand the neck to the final diameter and take care of any potential out-of-round condition or other neck damage caused by bulk handling brass during the previous stages. Because the earlier mandrel expanded the ID to nearly the correct size, the last minute mandrel step doesn't require any lube since it changes the ID only by about .001" in freshly annealed brass.
After that, it's careful individual handling during the charging and bullet seating steps to avoid any possible neck damage.

 

[Campbell]

Hello, can you guys and gals review my reloading steps and make recommendations on things that may need to be changed?

Brass is once fired 6.5 CM Hornady, will be loading it with H4350, 210M primers and 140 gr ELD-M.

1. Decap
2. SS Tumbler
3. Uniform Pockets
4. Bushing Neck Size or Bushing Full Length Size
4a) Flash-hole ream
5. Expand Neck to Mandrel Size
6. Turn Necks Using PMA Model A
7. Tumble again to Remove Lube
8. Chamfer, Trim and Debur with Giraud power Trimmer
9. Prime
10. Add Powder
11. Seat Bullet

I'm thinking I will need a 289 bushing for tension for necks that are not turned. Once they are turned I will need to bump down to a 288.

 

[Campbell]

Hello, can you guys and gals review my reloading steps and make recommendations on things that may need to be changed?

Brass is once fired 6.5 CM Hornady, will be loading it with H4350, 210M primers and 140 gr ELD-M.

1. Decap
2. SS Tumbler
3. Uniform Pockets
4. Bushing Neck Size or Bushing Full Length Size
5. Expand Neck to Mandrel Size
6. Turn Necks Using PMA Model A
7. Tumble again to Remove Lube
8. Chamfer, Trim and Debur with Giraud power Trimmer
9. Prime
10. Add Powder
11. Seat Bullet

I'm thinking I will need a 289 bushing for tension for necks that are not turned. Once they are turned I will need to bump down to a 288.

My amended regime: -
1. Decap Using a dedicated de-capping tool so as not to pollute your f/l die
2. SS Tumbler
3. Uniform Pockets
4. Bushing Neck Size or Bushing Full Length Size
4a) Flash hole ream
5. Expand Neck to Mandrel Size
6. Turn Necks Using PMA Model A
7. Tumble again to Remove Lube + crud
7a) Relube, F/L resize again (this is a once only process because of neck turning)
8. Chamfer, Trim and Debur with Giraud power Trimmer
8a) Re-Clean to remove crud (this is a once only process because of neck turning)
9. Prime
10. Add Powder
11. Seat Bullet

 

[Keith Glasscock]

"Extensive labor" to turn necks? Lol! Which neck turning tool put that bad taste in your mouth? Kinda makes me curious what do you do for a living where neck turning brass is considered hard labor. Lol! Just messin with ya

Couple weeks ago, I turned 500 case necks for a 204 Ruger varminting rifle that I only use to shoot gophers in the spring. Definitely don't "have" to turn necks for that rifle or many of my other rifles. I also dont "have" to want the most accuracy possible from my rifles.....

Piece of cake with the proper equipment and along with annealing, the turned necks make a hell of a difference for maintaining consistent neck tension

I think we miscommunicated there. What I meant by extensive is time consuming. Perhaps your process is faster, but I realistically get about one case every 45 sec to 1 min done. Your 500 cases would have taken me over 8 hours at the bench.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I think we miscommunicated there. What I meant by extensive is time consuming. Perhaps your process is faster, but I realistically get about one case every 45 sec to 1 min done. Your 500 cases would have taken me over 8 hours at the bench.

Yeah you must be turning by hand. But even for hand turning, 1 minute seems like a really long time. That would take way to long. By the time I chuck up the case in my drill powered shell holder, turn the neck, then take it out of the holder and set it back in the loading tray, it's about give or take 10 seconds for each case. Add a few seconds for each case if you want to count time for expanding the necks. I just sit in the downstairs family room and watch TV while I do it. I even have a convenient little LEE Breech Lock hand press I use for expanding the necks so I can sit and do that while watching TV as well.

https://leeprecision.com/breech-lock-hand-press.html