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Results of T&T Savage PTA

The attached photo is a target shot today 11/27/12, at 100 yards off a bench.
The Rifle is a Savage Model 12 PTA having the following done to it:

Action was Time & Trued, Using a PT&G oversized bolt, A Lambeth/Kiff Bolt Lift Kit, The accu Trigger was machined to allow for lighter trigger pull.

The factory barrel was replaced with a Rock Creek 30"FL, 6mm (.243/.236), 1:8, 5R, Heavy Palma Contour, with 11* dish crown. The chamber was cut with a PT&G reamer .272 neck with .090 freebore. The barrel was fitted without the barrel nut.

The loads were made with virgin Lapua 6mmBR brass, 30.5 grains of Varget, Wolf Small Rifle Magnum primers, The bullets Berger 107 BT were jammed into the rifling .035".

Five shots were done after bore siting to get the desired point of impact.
The following shots were numbers 6-10.
 

Attachments

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Bradley:
The customer did not want the nut.
Most folks don't want to turn a 1.250' cylinder portion of a good custom barrel to accomodate the nut and then not be able to get the wrench off the nut. MOST Savage factory or pre fit barrels have a smaller cylinder section then the barrel nuts OD and the wrench will slide right down off the barrel. One would have to use a spanner or clam shell wrench if the standard barrle nut wrench will not pass down the barrel.
Nat Lambeth
 
Great job, Nat. Too bad you had to put so much time and money in one of those Savages that won't shoot (forgive me).
 
Reed, send me back the action I did for you several years ago and I will redo it no charge. You will not beleive it is a Savage.
Nat
 
Two things: What is the bolt kit? It would be interesting to do an accuracy comparison between the accuracy with the factory bolt body and the aftermarket one. Given how the Savage bolt is built, that should be easy to do. Outstanding group....
 
Boyd:

I drill, ream, thread the main screw in the back of the bolt .250" x 28tpi. I insert a .250" x .750" cone point grade 8 set screw. I make a center detented, shouldered cap for the back of the cocking piece sleeve. I recut the cocking ramp and shelf on the bolt body. I deburr and polish the mating surfaces on the trigger hanger and sear. This allows for retarding the cocking piece and cocking piece pin. It also allows for external adjustment of the firing pin spring tension with an allen wrench. I also make adjustments on the bolt body to set the primary extraction.

This reduces the bolt lift by 40-60%, speeds up lock time, corrects any problems with primary extraction and makes firing pin spring tension adjustable with out taking the bolt apart.

Dave Kiff at PT&G is going to start selling a Lambeth/Kiff bolt lift kit with the parts and instructions. Some machining may be required.

Nat Lambeth
 
You re-cutting the ramp and cocking shelf on the bolt body on a 4 axis machine to match the true helix of the cam??

Re-cutting the ramp correctly makes all the difference in the world for cocking. Did mine a few years ago and the action cocked just as nice and smooth as my BAT's and Pandas.
 

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