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Removing varnish from a factory stock

Last week I picker up a older 700 Remington BDL 308. I had it made for my sister 10 to 12 years ago and it looks like crap and was wondering what would cut the varnish off the stock so I could restain and varnish it.
Thanks
Terry Pohl
 
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There's a 3m paint/varnish stripper product that is fairly mild that you neturalize after stripping with water. That's what I've used in the past. Worked pretty good and less odor and easier on the skin the stronger ones.
 
There's a 3m paint/varnish stripper product that is fairly mild that you neturalize after stripping with water. That's what I've used in the past. Worked pretty good and less odor and easier on the skin the stronger ones.
Agreed! Sanding before applying the stripper helps a lot.
 
I've used the professional grade paint stripper-------DANGER WILL ROBINSON-----------------Must use heavy duty latex gloves and respirator and do outside. It'll get anything off.
 
I've used the professional grade paint stripper-------DANGER WILL ROBINSON-----------------Must use heavy duty latex gloves and respirator and do outside. It'll get anything off.
Jasco finish remover for fine furniture...little more expensive but safe for all involved.
 
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Many years ago the NRA published and article on stripping stocks, using EASY-OFF oven cleaner. Remove all of the hardware from the stock spray with the oven cleaner let sit for10 minutes scrub with hot soapy water and a brush. you may have to do it twice but it works it gets the varnish in the checkering. Let it dry then finish it with fine steel wool. I've done it several times over the years.
 
Varnish comes off with a lot less fuss and bother than urethane finishes. Oven cleaner works fine. I use ZipStrip in the shop. Use a wood scraper (craft sticks work well) to get the bulk of it off and finish it off with steel wool and some mineral spirits.
 
When I was stripping varnish from boats we used heat guns and scrappers. No chemicals and did a great job without soaking the wood with water. Obviously start with low power and clamp the work so you have both hands free. The pores tend to remain filled so if you are staining you would need to sand it afterwards. But you would be doing that anyway!
 
Thanks all for the reply's, I will tape the caps and try the oven cleaner, WTH it looks bad now and if I screw up it is just going to be a hunting rifle anyways. Will post before and after photos.
Thanks
Terry Pohl
 
I use this stuff, found it works the best on that 70's era Remington crap coating...

DSCN1785.jpg


Water neutralized (just use a sponge and bucket, no soaking) and safe around metals. Does affect plastics though.
 

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