Removing the epoxy pain on rem bottom metal

[NINERUN]

While cerakoteing a few bottom metals I've decided to try to find a chemical stripper for the factory epoxy finish. Currently I am abrasive blasting it off and noticed that i could prep a clean dozen guns in the time i could remove the paint on one 700 bottom metal...(75psi 120g AL-OX)
My question is is there a chemical stripper i could use to break down this finish and not damage the aluminum? Stripeeze don't seem to cut it, soaked one in acetone and it loosened it good but the other two were only dulled.. any suggestions?

 

[Rustystud]

Acetone

 

[kendog]

Try 320 grit alox and less pressure. Doesn't rough up the aluminum so much.

 

[msinc]

I am surprised to hear that acetone did anything...if it did then I would jump to MEK. MEK is the fastest reducer available. We used to use it to clean paint guns that were not cleaned properly. Took some soaking but it will remove "specialty" types of dryed up paint...Polane, CARC, etc. That said, the only thing I have had any luck with on Remington epoxy is "aircraft grade" stripper. Usually takes like three applications and it will have to sit a while to soften the paint, but it always works.

 

[ebb]

Try Dads paint remover, it works way better than stripeze. It comes in a spray bottle and no need to paint it on. When it gets soft use steel wool.

 

[mr.kirk]

If there is any falure in the coating , some time in the ulteasonic will usually ruin the whole of the coating. Epoxy resins are pretty solvent proof. There is a dreaded aircraft hydraulic fluid called skydraul that penetrates epoxy laminates quite well.
To break an epoxy bond you need to exceed it's temp range. You can heat it up in an oven. I would usually look at 700F, but 500 might do. Covering things in dry ice and then hosing them down with acetone will let you pull them apart. That's what I would consider when attempting to beat the coating.
I once built a hollow epoxy composte wing on an aluminum mold. Once cured, we drilled a hole in it and filled it with acid to eat the aluminum out.

 

[JLT]

I've used Goof-Off Pro Stripper with good results on the epoxy-based stuff that Remington uses. It's a brush-on gel.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I have a scotch brite belt on my sander that makes very fast work of that stuff.

 

[jds holler]

I don't know if the coatings compare, but I once (accidentally) stripped the finish off of my Ruger 10-22 receiver by boiling it in water with the old cleaner called "Spic-n-Span". Didn't see a problem with the new bright look so I also did the trigger assembly. Just polished it up a bit and it's now got a great tactical look. My original goal was to remove the carbon and gunk, which it also did. jd

 

[Fotheringill]

Easy to see if acetone works. Get a bottle (or steal one from your medicine cabinet). It is nail polish remover without the scent.

 

[joshb]

I am surprised to hear that acetone did anything...if it did then I would jump to MEK. MEK is the fastest reducer available. We used to use it to clean paint guns that were not cleaned properly. Took some soaking but it will remove "specialty" types of dryed up paint...Polane, CARC, etc. That said, the only thing I have had any luck with on Remington epoxy is "aircraft grade" stripper. Usually takes like three applications and it will have to sit a while to soften the paint, but it always works.

Be careful with the MEK. I was told a story about a guy that got "splashed" in the face with the stuff. It melted his eyeball.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Try 320 grit alox and less pressure. Doesn't rough up the aluminum so much.

I agree. Less pressure also greatly improves the life of glass beads, if you use them. I've abrasive blasted a bunch of Remington bottom metal and find it extremely easy to remove. Not sure why the op's is difficult at all...particularly for the sole purpose of coating it afterward. Some hard coat anodizing will give you fits if you want it to be "pretty" when finished, but if you're gonna cerakote it anyway, I don't see the problem.

 

[RWO]

Be careful with the MEK. I was told a story about a guy that got "splashed" in the face with the stuff. It melted his eyeball.

Pure BS. MEK is a powerful solvent, somewhat better than acetone, but it will not melt an eyeball, Sounds like some snowflake chemophobe was running his mouth.

RWO

 

[joshb]

Ok. It might be an "urban legend". A professional painter told me the "story". Use it as you want. Just be careful with the stuff! I got a little acetone in my eye, once and it burned like hell.

 

[jds holler]

I breathed a bunch of MEK fumes, and actually got it on my skin about two years ago, while stripping the paint off of a Russian refurb. Two weeks later, I died. jd

 

[alinwa]

MEKP will cause blindness, literally within seconds......especially if you rub your eyes. Maybe the cause of some of the confusion?

But MEKP isn't generally used as a solvent, instead in mixing epoxies or RC fuels. Or pyro

MEK is on the shelf at Home Depot

MEKP is in the back room at Fiberlay or TAP