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Removing Factory Rifle Barrels

Factory installed barrels are generally put on so as the average guy can not take one off.
They require special tools and skills To remove them without damage to the barrel or action.

Very few gunsmiths when re-barreling a rifle install them with as much torque as the factory did originally. Many Rifles are Hot Blued after assembly. This melts away the anti seize or lubricant used to install the barrel to the action.

For removing factory barrels use a steel clam shell type wrench with an action screw. Brownell's makes and sells a very good action wrench. They also make a very good barrel vice with both steel and aluminum sleeves. I would also recommend the use of Kroil (penetrating oil) to assist in removing and action.

If you are re-barreling a factory or custom action you can use rear or side entry action wrench and a aluminum barrel vice. Replacement barrels do not require torqueing more than 80 inch pounds.

Most barrels are round at the muzzle and cylinder/breech end. Always use the barrel vice on a round portion of the barrel.

Do not use heat. If you do don't exceed 300 degrees.

Don't force frozen up actions/barrels. If your replacing the factory barrel it is either worn out or not what your wanting. The factory barrel is sacrificial (the least expensive part). You may need to make a relief cut to remove the tension on the barrel to remove it.

Use some common sense and/or get some help before you ruin something..

Nat Lambeth

p.s. For the "gunsmith" who ruined both a factory barrel (Remington VTR) and a Vipers (aluminum) barrel vice, Forest Gump said it best "You can't Fix Stupid".
 
Yep, everything I did wrong with my first Mauser project 30-odd years ago. I am happy to send work to those equipped to deal with it these days!
 
I had an very early, 1968, Remington. My gunsmith tried to remove the barrel to no avail. They used a thread lock product that set up like tar. He had to turn off the locking lug to remove the barrel. Nothing was destroyed except the locking lug.
 
A friend and I did mausers years ago, none of this info was common knowledge to those of us that had not been to gunsmith school. Mine was a snap to remove his Yugo 48 was another story. I had no idea what a relief cut was so I welded it ( the barrel )to a receiver hitch on a truck bumper. Put a cheater bar on the action wrench and pulled for all I was worth. It finally came lose I wound up on the ground I think. We didn't hurt the action, as it shoots as good as any with that type barrel. I know it has at least one deer to its credit maybe more.
 
MTM said:
Am I correct in Browning being the toughest factory barrel?
Howa/Weatherby Vanguard are pretty difficult. Only been a couple over the years that didn't need a relief cut. I don't know why removing a factory installed barrel has become such an impossible task. Have Americans become so inept at simple mechanical chores? Heck, I'm still using the wrench and vise (w/bushings) that I made in gunsmithing school, 20+ years ago. That's not to say I haven't made other wrenches/adaptors and bushings over the years. I don't think a gunsmith ever gets 'done' making tools for himself.
 
I took off an 8mm mauser barrel off a war time gun. Let me tell you, when it let go finally after several trys it through sparks as if it exploded. Never seen anything so tight in my life on a rifle.
 
EddieHarren said:
"......he had to turn off the locking lug....."

Please explain.

Running at 700 rpm with high speed steel. Repeat real fast, ding, ding, ding, ding, ding, CRUNCH. ;D
 
I'm no gunsmith, but I pretend to be one in my garage.

I'm told Savage factory barrels are put on with excessive torque. However, using an inexpensive barrel nut wrench and a home made barrel vise I fabricated from a 2x2 inch x36" length of oak purchased at Home Depot along with some 1/4" steel strap and some big-*** bolts, I was able to remove the barrel nut and barrel with a minimum of fuss.

It was darned tight, that's for sure, but with some care and some common sense, I won the contest without using any heat or oil and just a few appropriately timed curse words. It did, I must confess, require the use of some of my very best, hyphenated, curse words, a few of which contained the word "Mother".
 
The first several Howa bbl'd actions I purchased required a relief cut right up against the receiver face before I could get the bbls to break loose. It was bad enough doing this to brand new sporter-weight bbls, but when I had to ruin a couple of varmint weight 22-250 bbls to remove them, it bothered me even more.

But for the past year or so, something's changed - these newer bbl'd actions require even less effort than a new M700 to remove the bbls. As I sat down to type this reply, I went over this change in my memory, thinking perhaps the change might've coincided with the advent of Howa's HACT trigger, but then remembered that the two 22-250 varmint-weight actions that I had to make the relief cut on did have the HACT triggers.
 
I've removed military Mauser barrels and Enfield barrels a number of times, and they deserve their reputations. They are, however, a cake walk when compared to your average Mosin barreled action. I can cuss a blue streak in four languages and I ran out of words . . .

I use steel barrel blocks, a 20 ton H press, a BFH and plenty of rosin with these guys. Aluminum blocks, a dusting of rosin and elbow grease for the rest.
 

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