Factory installed barrels are generally put on so as the average guy can not take one off.
They require special tools and skills To remove them without damage to the barrel or action.
Very few gunsmiths when re-barreling a rifle install them with as much torque as the factory did originally. Many Rifles are Hot Blued after assembly. This melts away the anti seize or lubricant used to install the barrel to the action.
For removing factory barrels use a steel clam shell type wrench with an action screw. Brownell's makes and sells a very good action wrench. They also make a very good barrel vice with both steel and aluminum sleeves. I would also recommend the use of Kroil (penetrating oil) to assist in removing and action.
If you are re-barreling a factory or custom action you can use rear or side entry action wrench and a aluminum barrel vice. Replacement barrels do not require torqueing more than 80 inch pounds.
Most barrels are round at the muzzle and cylinder/breech end. Always use the barrel vice on a round portion of the barrel.
Do not use heat. If you do don't exceed 300 degrees.
Don't force frozen up actions/barrels. If your replacing the factory barrel it is either worn out or not what your wanting. The factory barrel is sacrificial (the least expensive part). You may need to make a relief cut to remove the tension on the barrel to remove it.
Use some common sense and/or get some help before you ruin something..
Nat Lambeth
p.s. For the "gunsmith" who ruined both a factory barrel (Remington VTR) and a Vipers (aluminum) barrel vice, Forest Gump said it best "You can't Fix Stupid".
They require special tools and skills To remove them without damage to the barrel or action.
Very few gunsmiths when re-barreling a rifle install them with as much torque as the factory did originally. Many Rifles are Hot Blued after assembly. This melts away the anti seize or lubricant used to install the barrel to the action.
For removing factory barrels use a steel clam shell type wrench with an action screw. Brownell's makes and sells a very good action wrench. They also make a very good barrel vice with both steel and aluminum sleeves. I would also recommend the use of Kroil (penetrating oil) to assist in removing and action.
If you are re-barreling a factory or custom action you can use rear or side entry action wrench and a aluminum barrel vice. Replacement barrels do not require torqueing more than 80 inch pounds.
Most barrels are round at the muzzle and cylinder/breech end. Always use the barrel vice on a round portion of the barrel.
Do not use heat. If you do don't exceed 300 degrees.
Don't force frozen up actions/barrels. If your replacing the factory barrel it is either worn out or not what your wanting. The factory barrel is sacrificial (the least expensive part). You may need to make a relief cut to remove the tension on the barrel to remove it.
Use some common sense and/or get some help before you ruin something..
Nat Lambeth
p.s. For the "gunsmith" who ruined both a factory barrel (Remington VTR) and a Vipers (aluminum) barrel vice, Forest Gump said it best "You can't Fix Stupid".