Remington 722 Question

[BigDMT]

I have a Remington 722 action Im getting ready to build a custom rifle with and of course it has the false floor plate which makes it a blind magazine.

I was planning on getting a new 700 stock for it. I know I can get an ADL stock and use a 700 trigger guard, but could I also get a BDL stock and use 700 BDL short action bottom metal to make it so it has a working floor plate?

Thanks.

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Yes Sir, will bolt right onto the 722 receiver!

 

[BigDMT]

Thanks so much! That's exactly what I was hoping to hear

 

[STS]

It won't bolt right on. The 722 tang is not cut out for the safety lever like the 700 is. The 700 stock would need to be relieved for the 722 safety that curves around the radius of the tang. The other option is to have the 722 tang notched to take the 700 style safety or use a bottom safety Jewel trigger. In addition to the above differences, the 722 tang is a bit thicker. That is not a problem as far as fit goes but it does look a little odd. It's doable but it's not a bolt on conversion. Good luck

 

[SDWhirlwind]

It won't bolt right on. The 722 tang is not cut out for the safety lever like the 700 is. The 700 stock would need to be relieved for the 722 safety that curves around the radius of the tang. The other option is to have the 722 tang notched to take the 700 style safety or use a bottom safety Jewel trigger. In addition to the above differences, the 722 tang is a bit thicker. That is not a problem as far as fit goes but it does look a little odd. It's doable but it's not a bolt on conversion. Good luck

Well, his question was in reference to using 700 BDL bottom metal on a 722 receiver of which my answer was "It will bolt right onto"! Don't see where the "It won't bolt right on" relates to that and there was no mention concerning safety lever/tang issues in his question....or am I missing something quite obvious concerning your "It won't bolt right on"??

 

[BigDMT]

It won't bolt right on. The 722 tang is not cut out for the safety lever like the 700 is. The 700 stock would need to be relieved for the 722 safety that curves around the radius of the tang. The other option is to have the 722 tang notched to take the 700 style safety or use a bottom safety Jewel trigger. In addition to the above differences, the 722 tang is a bit thicker. That is not a problem as far as fit goes but it does look a little odd. It's doable but it's not a bolt on conversion. Good luck

Good heads up. Inletting for the tang and safety is no big deal. I do a lot of stock work myself so I'll get her to fit. My big concern was all the metals matching up on the bottom and with the action screw holes in the stock.

Just ordered a Bobby Hart Long Range Target (non-aluminum chasis) stock from StockyStocks.com. Was gonna go with the "coffee" laminate color, but just not a huge fan of the way laminates look so I went with the "solid walnut" stock. Just personal preference.


Thanks guys

 

[BigDMT]

Here's another question for you fellas. When converting to the BDL style bottom metal on a 722, do I have to replace the magazine box and follower spring? or can I just buy the floor plate/trigger guard?

I'd imagine at least the follower spring would have to be changed in order to attach to the floor plate and maybe the 722 mag box would be too short, but not sure on either one. Thanks.

 

[SDWhirlwind]

Actually IIRC the magazine box from a 722 is too long when using a 700BDL mag box and a 700 BDL stock. The 722 mag box should be closer to the length if not the same as a 700 ADL mag box. Think the spring will work in either? Been a few years since I put a 722 in 244 into one of the first ugly synthetic BDL stocks Remington came out with. From what I remember I just ground off enough material behind bolt handle relief so the 722 safety lever would clear. Didn't put a lot of time into it but made the longest 1 shot kill to date with it on a big male yote, that being +/- 10yds of 570yds.(Didn't range it until AFTER I made the shot ) Maybe a bit of luck too????

 

[BigDMT]

Nice shooting! those yotes are small targets, especially at those ranges.

I suppose I'll just buy the whole BDL trigger assembly and magazine then. Thanks again.

 

[milliron]

you all are missing the most important difference between the 722 and 700. it is the extractor. break it and you will have a hard time finding a replacement. they are a somewhat weak design and not interchangeable with the 700.

 

[BigDMT]

you all are missing the most important difference between the 722 and 700. it is the extractor. break it and you will have a hard time finding a replacement. they are a somewhat weak design and not interchangeable with the 700.

I am planning on putting a bushing in the bolt face to reduce it from .473" to PPC size. When I do that I have to install a Sako style extractor so the factory extractor won't be an issue. thanks for the info though.

 

[geargrinder]

That, or you could just swap in a 700 bolt of the proper bolt face size.

 

[BigDMT]

That, or you could just swap in a 700 bolt of the proper bolt face size.

Cool, did not know those were interchangeable as well.

But it's more cost effective for me to do the bushing and extractor. It can cost over $200 for a new PPC bolt with Sako extractor.

The last time I had my smith put a bushing/Sako extractor in a Rem 700 it was when I blew the face off the bolt for my 204 Ruger. Now get this...He didn't even have the tooling for the Sako extractor. So he bought the tooling, installed the extractor, and inserted a bushing so perfectly that you can't even tell it apart from the rest of the bolt face and only charged me $80!!! He's a hell of a guy and does absolutely awesome work. When I asked him why it cost so little and offered to pay for half of the tooling he just said "no, no, no, I needed to get that tooling anyway and I like having all of your business."

I always shoot him $20-$30 tips whenever he does a barrel or other more costly work for me, so he takes good care of me and returns the favor in ways like I just described

 

[butchlambert]

You won't heed my advise, but you can rebate the rims and not have to do any bolt work. How many pieces of brass are you needing?

Here are some BR(308) rims rebated to ppc and 224 rim size.

 

[BigDMT]

You won't heed my advise, but you can rebate the rims and not have to do any bolt work. How many pieces of brass are you needing?

Here are some BR(308) rims rebated to ppc and 224 rim size.

that would work. how do you rebate those rims? do you turn them in a lathe?

im still kind of undecided on the chambering. I have a 243 LBC Turbo reamer I slightly modified and re-designed with Dave at PTG, but thinking of maybe doing something a little bigger. if i was going to use the 6 BR case, Id probably just leave it a .473" bolt face to make things easier. kind of thinking about the 6mm-250 AI. Any of you here have experience with that round?

 

[butchlambert]

This is the tool that I use.

I put the brass in a Wilson cartridge holder and put it in the collet in my lathe. It is a simple cut. I would not recommend a Sako extractor in any case. They can be dangerous. You can search the forums about it. If you go aftermarket, go with the M-16 extractor.

 

[BigDMT]

yeah the Sako is definitely lacking in strength. my father in law has blown off half a dozen of them while experiencing pressure spikes in his 17 Pee Wee on a 700 action. might talk to my smith about helping him purchase the tooling for installing the M16 extractor.