With the Remington, after you get the barrel machined by the smith, (chambered, threaded and properly headspaced) you can screw them on and off without having to adjust the barrel nut as you would with the savage as the barrel threads have a shoulder that butts up to the action. You still need an action wrench and barrel vise, but it is easier to achieve the exact same headspace as it is constant on the Remington, where as the Savage needs to be set with the barrel nut. So it is simpler once you have both barrels machined, though with the Savage you simply order the barrel without needing to send the action to the smith.
They both have their own high points, and as I said to start, the Remington 40X is a nice action. It just requires a smith to do things that can be done by yourself on the Savage.
You can buy barrels for the Remington that use a Savage style barrel nut as well if you choose to go that route.
Either way, you are going to end up with a nice rifle. You just need to figure out what has more high points in your eyes and go from there.
I only prefer Savage as I have seen what can be done with simple bolt-ons and zero machine work. For just under $1000 I built a .25MOA rifle. If I can do it, anyone can.
They both have their own high points, and as I said to start, the Remington 40X is a nice action. It just requires a smith to do things that can be done by yourself on the Savage.
You can buy barrels for the Remington that use a Savage style barrel nut as well if you choose to go that route.
Either way, you are going to end up with a nice rifle. You just need to figure out what has more high points in your eyes and go from there.
I only prefer Savage as I have seen what can be done with simple bolt-ons and zero machine work. For just under $1000 I built a .25MOA rifle. If I can do it, anyone can.