Rem 700 Timney trigger won't fire

[Woofie]

Good day

Approximately 4-5 years ago I installed a Timney Rem 700 two-stage trigger (the red trigger) in my Rem 700 .300WM. I installed the trigger as received, no adjustments then or since. It has worked fine since until this week, when the rifle stopped firing.
I have dis-assembled and re-assembled the bolt assembly. It is fine and cocks properly. When I pull the trigger the rifle does not fire but there is felt a soft click at the end of travel. It feels a lot like my Buddy's Savage F/TR rifle after he tried to adjust his trigger pull but pls. note I have not messed with the trigger. Looks as if messing with it is in my future, though.
I have flushed the trigger with Silikroil and electric parts cleaner just in case there was some crud in there, it hasn't made any difference, so I didn't bother blowing air through it.
I have reviewed most comments about such issues here. It looks as if finally, my trigger needs adjustment. Where is the best place to start (in what I think is logical order below)? :

1. Sear engagement (finding a wrench to fit the locknut will be a challenge)
2. Overtravel adjustment
3. Stage 2 trigger weight

I have read prior posts on this subject and might offer that I know full well where to buy a Jewel, or any other brand that you might recommend whilst taking the opportunity to slag off Timney (who are too busy to answer the 'phone "in these unprecedented times" [sound of vomiting off, stage left] however those suggestions won't help my current predicament.

Regards
Woofie

 

[garandman]

FWIW....I've always had good experience with Timney's reliability.

It is adjustable for pull weight? That's the first place I'd look....adjusted too light

 

[Woofie]

FWIW....I've always had good experience with Timney's reliability.

It is adjustable for pull weight? That's the first place I'd look....adjusted too light

Might be pull weight, as I said, just like my pal's Savage when he adjusted his trigger down too far, although I have never adjusted my trigger and it has worked for 4-5 years.

 

[garandman]

Might be pull weight, as I said, just like my pal's Savage when he adjusted his trigger down too far, although I have never adjusted my trigger and it has worked for 4-5 years.

Recoil can adjust things for ya. Esp on 300WM. . It's the first thing I would check....

 

[DickE]

Does the trigger sear move down with finger pressure, when pulling the trigger. Try cleaning trigger with naptha or lighter fluid.

 

[Gil P.]

I've broken two timneys. Have you tried emailing them? Maybe just have them fix it and then sell it.

 

[dhagerty40]

here is a way to test it. (the timney is either a 2 or 3 lever trigger)
Remove bolt and put pressure on the sear that the bolt rides on either with a pen or your finger.. it should stay up.
now pull the trigger and see if it drops easily and after removing pressure it should return back to same position.

if it does not drop, you either have the trigger misadjusted (not enough overtravel) or a broken internal spring.
if it does drop, but feels heavy, does not drop easily or binds up when releasing pressure, most likely it is dirty, has a brass shaving in it or the outer frame of the trigger is bent.

If it drops as soon as you place pressure on the sear bar, your sear engagement is misadjusted.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

here is a way to test it. (the timney is either a 2 or 3 lever trigger)
Remove bolt and put pressure on the sear that the bolt rides on either with a pen or your finger.. it should stay up.
now pull the trigger and see if it drops easily and after removing pressure it should return back to same position.

if it does not drop, you either have the trigger misadjusted (not enough overtravel) or a broken internal spring.
if it does drop, but feels heavy, does not drop easily or binds up when releasing pressure, most likely it is dirty, has a brass shaving in it or the outer frame of the trigger is bent.

If it drops as soon as you place pressure on the sear bar, your sear engagement is misadjusted.

^^^^
This is good advice and a good procedure for finding your problem. Just be methodical. Triggers aren't real complicated.

 

[Woofie]

^^^^
This is good advice and a good procedure for finding your problem. Just be methodical. Triggers aren't real complicated.

Indeed. And it worked.

 

[dhagerty40]

Indeed. And it worked.

sounds like you got it fixed!

 

[Woofie]

I've broken two timneys. Have you tried emailing them? Maybe just have them fix it and then sell it.

Yes, I e-mailed them. Inshallah I will receive a reply. Which I don't need since it is fixed.

 

[Woofie]

here is a way to test it. (the timney is either a 2 or 3 lever trigger)
Remove bolt and put pressure on the sear that the bolt rides on either with a pen or your finger.. it should stay up.
now pull the trigger and see if it drops easily and after removing pressure it should return back to same position.

if it does not drop, you either have the trigger misadjusted (not enough overtravel) or a broken internal spring.
if it does drop, but feels heavy, does not drop easily or binds up when releasing pressure, most likely it is dirty, has a brass shaving in it or the outer frame of the trigger is bent.

If it drops as soon as you place pressure on the sear bar, your sear engagement is misadjusted.

I want to thank you for your clear, concise and accurate advice. Something less than a quarter turn on the overtravel adjustment screw fixed the problem. I am glad I asked because I would have started with the sear adjustment. That saved me ~$220 for a Jewel trigger and a ride over to Bruno's to buy it. Appreciate too the answer coming from AZ I have a pretty serious ELR practice on Monday which I have prepared this rifle for, so the advice was timely.
My take-home is that these adjustment screws shift by themselves over time. I may daub some Loctite over it.
Thanks again.

 

[Woofie]

Recoil can adjust things for ya. Esp on 300WM. . It's the first thing I would check....

Checked, not the issue. It was overtravel.

 

[dhagerty40]

yes, they do move over time. most of mine have a sealer on the screws (nail polish works well)

It is also why I like shilen triggers for hunting triggers as they have a lock nut on each adjustment screw.

Have fun at your practice match. I need to tune my guns up as the 'Snowbirds' will start showing up next month and we should start shooting matches again.

 

[Woofie]

yes, they do move over time. most of mine have a sealer on the screws (nail polish works well)

It is also why I like shilen triggers for hunting triggers as they have a lock nut on each adjustment screw.

Have fun at your practice match. I need to tune my guns up as the 'Snowbirds' will start showing up next month and we should start shooting matches again.

Hear you on the Snowbirds. I actually like Ben Avery in the Summer as it's quiet, but on my life it can get miserable hot in the pits.

 

[338 dude]

Might be pull weight, as I said, just like my pal's Savage when he adjusted his trigger down too far, although I have never adjusted my trigger and it has worked for 4-5 years.

I had a timney Calvin elite in my Winchester 3006 for nearly 20 years always worked fine then of course two weeks before my antelope hunt in Wyoming it would not stay cocked as you I tried cleaning and everything then called timney and their response was send it in and we will check it out I explain my hunt was in a week or so they were not willing to send me a trigger any sooner so I bought trigger tech and could not be happier

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Checked, not the issue. It was overtravel.

A little extra over travel won't hurt a thing, either. I prefer some over travel in my triggers. Never have understood why some people set them to stop as soon as the trigger breaks.

 

[Bill Norris]

TIMNEY ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

1. SEAR ENGAGEMENT Cock rifle. Engage safety. Turn screw clockwise until it stops (hits the safety) Back off screw until safety plunger moves freely. Test the safety to make sure it moves back and forth smoothly. Re-engage the safety and make sure the trigger doesn’t have excessive movement with the safety in the safe position.

2. OVER TRAVEL After you adjust your sear engagement dry fire the rifle. Without cocking tighten the over travel screw in until it hits the trigger and then back it out about 1/6 of a turn or one flat of the hex wrench. It should move freely and fire easily but you shouldn’t have to “chase” the trigger more than about .015

3. PULL WEIGHT It’s important that you NOT take the pull weight too low; it must maintain spring pressure or will Bump / slam fire. When you pull the trigger, with the bolt open, the trigger’s spring should return it to the neutral position; if it doesn’t you don’t have enough spring pressure. To adjust spring pressure turn the screw in (Clockwise) until you can feel the pressure of the spring on the actual trigger lever. Close the bolt and dry fire the rifle. We recommend using a trigger pull gauge in the center of the trigger to measure the pull weight. If you don’t have one you need to get one, they aren’t very expensive, we sell them for around $35.00 It must be between 1.5 and 4lbs to function correctly. From there you take the screw in or out to measure the feel (weight) of the trigger. Testing Once you have it set where you like it rapid dry fire to ensure it functions perfectly. Test for slam fires by closing the bolt harder, don’t get insane but do shut it hard and with more force than normal. You are testing for accidental or unintentional discharge, if you were hunting and had to rapidly reload and do a second shot it shouldn’t discharge unintentionally. When you reassemble, be sure to use a flashlight to look into the trigger well, the trigger should not rub or make contact with the trigger well or the trigger guard. It should, in theory, float through without contact, close is good, however rubbing is bad. With the rifle in the cocked position and the safety engaged drop the rifle 12 inches, but first, onto a padded floor to test for drop fire. It should not fire with the safety on and shouldn’t dent a primer either.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

TIMNEY ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE FOR FUTURE REFERENCE

1. SEAR ENGAGEMENT Cock rifle. Engage safety. Turn screw clockwise until it stops (hits the safety) Back off screw until safety plunger moves freely. Test the safety to make sure it moves back and forth smoothly. Re-engage the safety and make sure the trigger doesn’t have excessive movement with the safety in the safe position.

2. OVER TRAVEL After you adjust your sear engagement dry fire the rifle. Without cocking tighten the over travel screw in until it hits the trigger and then back it out about 1/6 of a turn or one flat of the hex wrench. It should move freely and fire easily but you shouldn’t have to “chase” the trigger more than about .015

3. PULL WEIGHT It’s important that you NOT take the pull weight too low; it must maintain spring pressure or will Bump / slam fire. When you pull the trigger, with the bolt open, the trigger’s spring should return it to the neutral position; if it doesn’t you don’t have enough spring pressure. To adjust spring pressure turn the screw in (Clockwise) until you can feel the pressure of the spring on the actual trigger lever. Close the bolt and dry fire the rifle. We recommend using a trigger pull gauge in the center of the trigger to measure the pull weight. If you don’t have one you need to get one, they aren’t very expensive, we sell them for around $35.00 It must be between 1.5 and 4lbs to function correctly. From there you take the screw in or out to measure the feel (weight) of the trigger. Testing Once you have it set where you like it rapid dry fire to ensure it functions perfectly. Test for slam fires by closing the bolt harder, don’t get insane but do shut it hard and with more force than normal. You are testing for accidental or unintentional discharge, if you were hunting and had to rapidly reload and do a second shot it shouldn’t discharge unintentionally. When you reassemble, be sure to use a flashlight to look into the trigger well, the trigger should not rub or make contact with the trigger well or the trigger guard. It should, in theory, float through without contact, close is good, however rubbing is bad. With the rifle in the cocked position and the safety engaged drop the rifle 12 inches, but first, onto a padded floor to test for drop fire. It should not fire with the safety on and shouldn’t dent a primer either.

Can you or they explain why number 2 is what it is? I see no harm in "chasing" the trigger a bit. I can't stop my finger from pulling at the very instant the gun goes bang, except for recoil naturally pulling the trigger away from my finger..pretty dang fast.

 

[Bill Norris]

Can you or they explain why number 2 is what it is? I see no harm in "chasing" the trigger a bit. I can't stop my finger from pulling at the very instant the gun goes bang, except for recoil naturally pulling the trigger away from my finger..pretty dang fast.

No Sir, I have no clue at all why they say that.