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Rem 700 ejector

a friend of mine has a Custom blueprinted 700 in 222 Magnum,,when he opens the bolt and pulls it back the extractor holds the case and the ejector pushes it out at about a 40* angle and holds it there and you just pull it out by hand,,

is it possible to tune my Stiller action with PTG bolt with M16/Sako extractor to do the same in 6 BRDX and if so what all is envolved,,just the strength of the spring in the ejector or is there more to it??

thanx in advance,,

a drop port would be nice as well ,,but that aint happening,,
 
It's just the ejector spring. You can shorten it a little at a time til it does what you want it to do with a case. Mine have just enough tension to plop a case down right beside the gun.
 
It's not clear to me whether your friend's extractor performance is something you want to emulate or if a problem you want to solve. Shortening the spring won't solve your friend's issue you describe; it will make it worse. Another thing to consider is that some of the case's reaction to the extraction process depends on how fast you cycle the bolt.
If you want to play with the ejector spring always be sure to have a new factory spring on hand. If you mess it up you'll be storing your rifle until you get a replacement.
You can either modify the Remington bolt and add another style extractor or order a PTG ready to go. Inasmuch as the price for having the gunsmith make the modification (parts and labor) can run about as much as a new PTG bolt I'd opt for the latter.
 
mr.big said:
I would like mine to do the same and not throw the brass

I cut Remington ejector springs to 0.95" (4 or 5 coils), and the cases make a little pile next to the rifle. Works for calibres from 221 FurBall to 300 Winchester Magnum.
 
I just lopped about 4 or 5 turns off of the ejector spring in my new PTG 223 bolt.

This is a target rifle and none of my 308s use the ejector, but this 223 bolt with a Sako extractor was impossible to pull the cases out of the action. The clearances are too tight and they just won't come out. The spring kicked them way too hard. Now it looks like they will plop out about where I want them (in the lid of my ammo box.)
 
I just lopped about 4 or 5 turns off of the ejector spring in my new PTG 223 bolt.

This is a target rifle and none of my 308s use the ejector, but this 223 bolt with a Sako extractor was impossible to pull the cases out of the action. The clearances are too tight and they just won't come out. The spring kicked them way too hard. Now it looks like they will plop out about where I want them (in the lid of my ammo box.)
What lapping tool did you use?
 
For certain rifles, like my varmint rifles, I prefer that the ejector does not sling the case several feet. Trying to find a spent case in a hay field is a pain and almost impossible. With the current component mess, I've become a "case miser". So, I've had my ejector springs modified to drop the case at the mag well or at my feet.

However, with my big game rifles, I need a positive ejection system. There have been a few cases where a second shot is needed quickly, and the stakes are higher with big game so I can justify losing a case or two. I had one occasion where one of my big game rifle ejectors didn't function consistently. Rather than mess around with it, I took it to my rifle smith who installed a new extractor and ejector spring restoring the function. As Dirty Harry once said, "A man has to know his limitations." I ain't no gunsmith. ;)
 
It's not clear to me whether your friend's extractor performance is something you want to emulate or if a problem you want to solve. Shortening the spring won't solve your friend's issue you describe; it will make it worse. Another thing to consider is that some of the case's reaction to the extraction process depends on how fast you cycle the bolt.
If you want to play with the ejector spring always be sure to have a new factory spring on hand. If you mess it up you'll be storing your rifle until you get a replacement.
You can either modify the Remington bolt and add another style extractor or order a PTG ready to go. Inasmuch as the price for having the gunsmith make the modification (parts and labor) can run about as much as a new PTG bolt I'd opt for the latter.
I ordered a ptg bolt and ptg extractor kit - they showed up seperate - and they dont fit so i am fittig them - just curious the best way to get the extractor in because with the pin and spring fully compressed the extractor does not clear the hole
 

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