I have a Rem 700 stainless action with a Criterion Rem-Age barrel in a XLR Element chassis. The rifle shoots great (6mm Creedmoor) but the scope is almost maxed out with windage adjustment. I only have 1.5 moa left until the windage knob hits the end of its travel. I have two different bases I have tried - an EGW and a Weaver and both have the same issue when mounted on the receiver. I have the Kokopelli scope alignment tool which has a rod that extends out from the alignment bars. This rod does point to the left - easily seen by the naked eye. I am not a machinist so wondering if there are any suggestions to get the rail to sit aimed farther right than it currently does. When I take the rail off and put the screws back in the 4 holes and sight down them, the 4 holes appear to be perfectly aligned. If I put a straight edge along the screws, all 4 touch - no gaps anywhere. So I don't know if the holes in the receiver are slightly aimed left or if somehow the barrel is somehow slightly aimed right. Any way to slightly "shim" the rail so it aims further right? Any quick inexpensive non-gunsmith or machinist suggestions? If not, I can live with it as is, but I would much rather have the scope adjusted closer to the middle of the adjustment range. Thanks in advance for suggestions.
Rem 700 base not parallel to barrel - fixes?
- Thread starter mchees1
- Start date
watercam
Silver $$ Contributor
Having just gone through the same dilema with two formerly iron sighted rifles I went with the best option I could perform myself - Burris Signature Zee rings and Posi-align inserts. The inserts range from 5moa correction to 20 moa with no other modification to the rail or rifle. Check out the Burris web site for more info. They are very secure and worked wonders for me.
The easiest fix for your problem (well-known by the way) is to purchase Burris Signature Z rings with posi-align inserts. These can be used to compensate for the off center screws/rail. (apparently Watercam and I were typing at the same time 
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Dusty Stevens
Shiner
First you gotta figure out if its that barrel or the screw holes. If its the screw holes a gunsmith has a few options. Weld them and re-drill, machine the base and shim it, drill it to 8-40 in a straight line, machine and shim the rings, lap and bed the rings straight, and maybe a few more (you get the idea) this happens alot but you gotta figure out the culprit first. You can always index the barrel a bit to see if the point of impact changes before you get too far
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
Burris Signature rings and universal mounts with the rear base having adjustable windage.
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/mounts-and-bases/trumount-universal-bases
https://www.burrisoptics.com/mounting-systems/mounts-and-bases/trumount-universal-bases
urbanrifleman
Site $$ Sponsor
On my 700 that is my varmint rifle, it was made from a bone stock stainless SPS from maybe about 12 years ago production. The holes in the action were as you described. My gunsmith retapped the holes over sized and now its dead straight.
Have not checked my brand new actions yet.
Have not checked my brand new actions yet.
Liven The Dream
Gold $$ Contributor
This may sound crazy ! Try turning the Rings 180 ??
It sometimes works and fast and cheaper ?
It sometimes works and fast and cheaper ?
Burris Sig. rings are the way to go..Just my two cents . Tommy Mc
jds holler
Gold $$ Contributor
As per Hogpatrol's post, these would probably be the easiest and cheapest route. Gives ya about a gazillion MOA of windage adjustment. Easy and cheap to find on Ebay, or right here on the forum. jd
As been said put the action in the mill and recut the holes (in line with the center of the action) and tap to 8-40. Or use Burris rings.
Another way if you don't have a mill is to bed the base.
You'll need a bore sighter, some type of gun vise, JB weld, sand paper and small round needle file, tape.
Once you have your rifle sighted in clamp it in the rifle vise. Install the bore sighter and record the reading. "Leave the bore sighter in place".
Run a strip of tape down the length of topside of the scope. Taping the top of the rings to the scope.
Remove the top of rings & scope. By counting clicks center redical.
Leave the bottom of rings attached to base if you can.
Loosen the base screws, set the scope back on the ring bases.
Gently twist the base and see if you can align the scope crosshairs to the correct spot on the borescope.
If you can't, you'll have to use the file to elongate the screws holes in the base, until it will align.
Either way you will have to rough up the bottom of the base & degrease the base and screws and top of action. Use release agent on screws and inside screw holes.
Mix the JB and aply.
Set base in place, start screws align the crosshairs in the borescope.
Let JB set up. Clean everything up.
Go a test you work.
Hal
Another way if you don't have a mill is to bed the base.
You'll need a bore sighter, some type of gun vise, JB weld, sand paper and small round needle file, tape.
Once you have your rifle sighted in clamp it in the rifle vise. Install the bore sighter and record the reading. "Leave the bore sighter in place".
Run a strip of tape down the length of topside of the scope. Taping the top of the rings to the scope.
Remove the top of rings & scope. By counting clicks center redical.
Leave the bottom of rings attached to base if you can.
Loosen the base screws, set the scope back on the ring bases.
Gently twist the base and see if you can align the scope crosshairs to the correct spot on the borescope.
If you can't, you'll have to use the file to elongate the screws holes in the base, until it will align.
Either way you will have to rough up the bottom of the base & degrease the base and screws and top of action. Use release agent on screws and inside screw holes.
Mix the JB and aply.
Set base in place, start screws align the crosshairs in the borescope.
Let JB set up. Clean everything up.
Go a test you work.
Hal
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
I have a rifle built on an old Savage 110 action that is so far off that I had to turn .020 offset inserts in the Signature rings sideways in opposite directions in the front and back rings to correct it. That brought the point of impact. with the reticle centered for windage, back to within an inch of the point of aim. Needless to say I am a big fan of the rings.
Alex Wheeler
Site $$ Sponsor
I just had one sent in for this reason. The issue ended up being the action was warped. Common in all makes of actions to some degree or another, this one was so bad however my smallest mandrel wouldnt make it through. Too far out to even bolt into my v block.
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
Way back when I used to mount a lot of Swarovski scopes. The 6-24 had very little windage adjustment. Customers couldn't get them zero'd. They consistently pointed the same way. It took awhile but I figured out what the problem was. The actions are hand polished. Every action, on the rear bridge, was rolled off to the rear and to the right. tighten the base screws and the base rolled to the rear and canted to the right. Using machinist squares and L shaped shims I could get bases aligned in two planes and pretty close in the third. If you think that doesn't matter consider how far off the center line of the ring will be as it leans to the right. The higher it is the further off it will be.
YMMV
YMMV
Did you have this problem with the factory barrel? I would blame the remage nut system before the screw holes.
Riesel
Gold $$ Contributor
Now that's Banana Warped
In hunting style bolt actions with an open top and magazine cut, there is so little connecting the front and back, it's a wonder that they aren't all bent.
I have never heard of a barrel nut system causing barrel misalignment unless it was due to a bad recoil lug but a standard 700 also has a recoil lug so it's not really ever the barrel nut to blame.
As such, I prefer closed top actions and don't mind barrel nuts.
I have never heard of a barrel nut system causing barrel misalignment unless it was due to a bad recoil lug but a standard 700 also has a recoil lug so it's not really ever the barrel nut to blame.
As such, I prefer closed top actions and don't mind barrel nuts.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Its not the holes it is the top of the action. Not being round and being on a different level. More not being round and as you tighten up the screws the rail is pulled to the lower side. The easiest and best way to fix it is to bed the rail. Just like you would a barrel. There surly must be a you tube video on this. It is a pretty common thing with Rem 700s. You think they would change the tooling and make them as they are supposed to be rather than just keep churning out shit. Anyway put some beding compound under the rail and just lightly use the screw's to align it.
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