Rem 700 barrel removal ??

[hottshott526]

Hi all,

I am needing to remove a 700 factory barrel.

I was going to purchase a Davidson rear entry wrench and vise but was told that these are made for "switch" barrel rifles and NOT for taking factory barrels off, and that I need the Brownells type wrench that goes around the action.

Does this sound right?
Are the factory barrels so tight that a rear entry wrench will hurt the action?

Thanks
Brian

 

[Preacher]

You'll wreck the receiver, or something else before you'll ever get a 700 factory barrel off with a rear entry wrench.. Even with a super heavy wrap around style and a 6 foot cheater pipe I bounce around a lot on the end of it before it breaks loose and scares the tar out on me....

 

[therifler]

listen to preacher makes good sense. i use rear entry and get some off that are older if it appears to be to tight i will part the shoulder of the barrel in the lathe . better than ruining a rec. hope this helps .TR

 

[butchlambert]

I use a rear entry, but you must get it all the way into the front ring. You will have to use a propane torch to heat the front ring as Remington uses a tough sealer. I am building a new vice and stand to mount it on. I have trouble holding the barrel tight enough sometime.
Butch

 

[hottshott526]

Thanks for the replies

I need to be able to re- install this barrel after taking it off so splitting the shoulder is out.

The whole reason for this is:

I got an Elisio RTS tube gun stock and the factory recoil lug needs changed over to the supplied recoil disk and the disk is .006 thicker than the factory lug and i was going to take .006 off the shoulder and then turn the muzzle end for an iron sight base. After doing this then reinstall the barrel.

I would rather not use heat for fear of warping something.

 

[butchlambert]

I said propane torch. You are only heating enough to loosen the sealer. You well do a lot more damage squeezing the $hi!! out of it than using a little heat. Can't you surface grind the recoil lug.
Butch

 

[Steve Blair]

I am with Butch on this. Just surface grind the Eliseo lug to match the Remington.

The Surgeon action wrench is a port entry design that has produced good results for me. It gets you very close to the receiver ring.

http://www.surgeonrifles.com/products/accessories/?module=products&product_id=147

 

[jr600yd]

No doubt about it getting a factory Remmy barrel off is a B%$#h! I put some Kroil oil in the front action ring, stand the action up on its muzzel and let it soak over night. I have no experience with a rear entry action wrench. I do use the Brownells vice and wrench. Works every time.

 

[prnghrn]

I agree that the 700 barrels can be the --its. I will usually plug the chamber, muzzle down and fill this with kroil, let it soak a day or so. I use a home made wrap around action wrench with a 1/4 x 28 socket head cap screw in the front receiver hole, with a recess in the bottom half of the wrench, I made a slit bushing for the barrel vise and used 120 grit silicon carbide mixed with fiberglass resin and poured a mold to the breech of the barrel, this when tightened down in the vise does not slip. I then tighten everthing down and give the action wrench a sharp blow the a 3 pound lead hammer, usually they will break loose after a couple of hits. don't over due the hit, just make it good and solid. hope this helps.
prnghrn

 

[DCRYDER]

You pay shipping both ways and I'll take it off for ya.

 

[Preacher]

All this stuff showing is why you need a little heat to break those pesky Remington factory barrels loose. I use a hot air gun for the heat, it will get the barrel hot enough that you cant keep your hand on it for very long.. This was a XP-100 barrel.

 

[Randfal]

I agree with Preacher and Butch about the heat. There is no reason to try and force the barrel off without it. After all you are not trying to melt it. You are not going to heat it to the point of warping it. You just need to soften the funk Remington puts on the threads. Heat it up with a propane plumbers torch just at the threads until its just hot enough you can't hold it. Keep moving the flame around the threads and don't just cook one spot with it. Imagine getting it hot enough to quickly melt butter in a frying pan but not hot enough to fry an egg. I only use a rear entry wrench and don't get crazy with it. Don't be a gorilla with it, just hold it straight and use nice uniform pressure.

 

[sailhertoo]

I am with Butch on this. Just surface grind the Eliseo lug to match the Remington.

The Surgeon action wrench is a port entry design that has produced good results for me. It gets you very close to the receiver ring.

http://www.surgeonrifles.com/products/accessories/?module=products&product_id=147

I got one of those Surgeon's and they do work very well.

 

[hottshott526]

Well I got a vise on the way. Now to find a suitable wrench.

I called Brownells and they're out of their Rem 700 wrenches.
What about a Wheeler wrench??? I see midway has them for 49.99. Any thoughts?

DCryder
Thanks for the offer but I'd like to do it myself or keep it local if I have to take it to someone.

Thank you all for the info

Brian

 

[terryb]

brian,the wheeler will work fine,the newer ones have a slot milled for the recoil lug,i use the wheeler vise (lots of resin in the wood blocks)and wrench,may need a longer cheater pipe over the handle on some remington,but i've been able to remove all i tried and it's been a good many.

 

[Bnhpr]

Heat from a propane torch will reduce the required breaking torque by 50-75%. Stick it right in the chamber until flames come out the muzzle. There is minimal direct heat on the action, mostly conducted from the bbl.