Reloading problem with Dillon 550
- Thread starter Higgsjunk
- Start date
What he said.^^^^^
You only need a slight bell.
You only need a slight bell.
One other thing that will help in the future is carbon in the case which will help lubricate or act as a lube so to speak and it will be way easier. The other two posters are right ,you need to readjust the bell mouthing so it doesn't go so high into the radius of the powder funnel slash bell mouther.
Corey Schwanz
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Looks like too much bell and forcing that part too far down into the case. Maybe a light lube like Hornady One Shot or Dillon's spray lube would help too. Even with carbide dies, a lot of pistol shooters I know lube their cases to make the presses run a bit smoother.
Also, are you seating and crimping in station 4? Station 3 is my seater and station 4 is my crimp but it doesn't look like station 3 is doing anything. Is there a powder cop on that one?
Also, are you seating and crimping in station 4? Station 3 is my seater and station 4 is my crimp but it doesn't look like station 3 is doing anything. Is there a powder cop on that one?
Your video appears to show the powder hopper to be about 7 threads above the lock nut. Re-adjust to show 2 or three more threads. You only need enough flare that the bullet will sit squarely in the flare and not require you to manually hold it in position for seating. I don't load 9MM, strictly .45ACP and my powder measure is set at 11 threads above the lock nut. Hope this helps.
Earlier advice on setting up dies is good. I can't add to that as I'm fairly new to the 550. But I can comment about how great One Shot is. I just spray the brass lightly as it sits in the bin, or half at a time, as I'm loading the bin. Wait a few minutes. I don't trust this stuff with most rifle cases, stuck a few using it. But for smoothing out the cycling of my 550, this stuff is great. Major difference with and without. I use it on all my pistol cases with the 550. But as said, die adjustment is a must first. But you will see a major difference using some One Shot.
Dan
Dan
Fron Starline Brass
From StarlineWHY IS IT VERY HARD TO GET EXPANDER AND POWDER FUNNEL BACK OUT OF CASE?
There are two situations that create this problem. The first is one we have just recently identified. It seems to be associated with the dillon powder funnel and only a couple of calibers (45 Auto and 40 S&W). The land for expanding case mouth is too long and when you begin to bell mouth the bottom of expander gets into the thicker taper of case and wedges causing it to be very hard to get back out. We have modified several by increasing radius on end and slightly shortening expanding land and this eliminated the problem completely. Call Starline and we will take care of it if you wish. One other cause can be a burr at case mouth created by the final trim operation, which grabs onto expander as it comes back up. This situation does not often appear and can be fixed by deburring case mouth or inside lubing cases. I would NOT lube the inside of a pistol case or the outside using carbide dies. Not all "carbide" dies are the same. Some are coated with nitride. titanium nitride vs tungsten carbide- Nitride may need lube, outside.
From StarlineWHY IS IT VERY HARD TO GET EXPANDER AND POWDER FUNNEL BACK OUT OF CASE?
There are two situations that create this problem. The first is one we have just recently identified. It seems to be associated with the dillon powder funnel and only a couple of calibers (45 Auto and 40 S&W). The land for expanding case mouth is too long and when you begin to bell mouth the bottom of expander gets into the thicker taper of case and wedges causing it to be very hard to get back out. We have modified several by increasing radius on end and slightly shortening expanding land and this eliminated the problem completely. Call Starline and we will take care of it if you wish. One other cause can be a burr at case mouth created by the final trim operation, which grabs onto expander as it comes back up. This situation does not often appear and can be fixed by deburring case mouth or inside lubing cases. I would NOT lube the inside of a pistol case or the outside using carbide dies. Not all "carbide" dies are the same. Some are coated with nitride. titanium nitride vs tungsten carbide- Nitride may need lube, outside.
Corey Schwanz said:
+2. I do this and it really helps keep the operation running smoothly. I put 100 or so pieces in a gallon Ziploc bag spray some on one shot in the bag and give it a good shake.
I've been reloading with my now 550 (upgraded over the years after starting with a 450 press that you had to buy from a dealer....was a long time ago, lol) and in 30+ years of loading, I have never needed any lube while using carbide dies for anything from 38Spec to 44Mag.
Important thing is to start with clean brass and several hours in a tumbler has always insured trouble free reloading. If you do not use a carbide sizing die for pistol cartridges, you need to upgrade, it's well worth the money.
Important thing is to start with clean brass and several hours in a tumbler has always insured trouble free reloading. If you do not use a carbide sizing die for pistol cartridges, you need to upgrade, it's well worth the money.
Duster_360 said:
Do carbide dies need lube? No.
Does the press run smoother with a minor amount of lube, which may well improve consistency of ammo loaded? Yes.
Don't agree? Try it - a can of One Shot lasts a LONG time, and it'll likely have more effect than saying you've loaded for 30 years and don't believe it's needed or has any effect.
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