Reloading order

[Kramerica]

If you were going to make a list in order of the process you use to reload what would it look like? So far mine is pretty basic due to the lack of tools and knowledge (working on changing both), but I’d like to add in a few steps like annealing, uniformity primer pocket/flash hole, maybe neck turn maybe not? Mine is:

*Buy bulk factory ammo, fire form it
*FL Size the brass (set up the die so I get .003 for neck tension)
* trim brass- on that note how long over the trim length do you let yours get before trimming again?
*Debur
*prime
*powder
*seat
*repeat

 

[Someoldguy]

Uh, oh. NOW you've gone and done it.

 

[JFrank]

You would be surprised how little you really need, I have a single stage press to re size brass.
I use quality tools and believe that hand tools trump power tools for precision reloading.i find that Wilson case gauges are excellent for headspace and trim length.

The rest is up to you"

 

[R.Morehouse]

De-Prime..........Neil Jones
Clean out pockets ( uniform ) Brush out necks
Anneal.............AMP
FL Size.............Old Discontinued Presses ( I check every case for proper shoulder bump in chamber with stripped bolt... )
Check OAL, wipe off lube
Prime...............21st Cent.
Throw or weigh powder then seat bullet.....I do this step one round at a time
.....................Happy Shooting....................

Regards
Rick

 

[ToddKS]

I would change your step 1 to "Buy Lapua Brass"

 

[argrendel]

I agree with Lapua brass.

 

[JMayo]

I buy about 1500.oo of supplies a yr to make my ammo for the year.
The making of a bullet is the simple part.
How far will you go to make them exactly the same is the hard part.

 

[K22]

Some of my thoughts on reloading since the late 60's:

I've never annealed or turned necks. I get about 12 to 16 reloads per case depending on caliber.

I uniform pockets and deburr flashholes but I can't honestly say I've noticed a difference in accuracy but I'm only shooting in the 1/2 moa range. (I'm a precision varmint / predator hunter not a benchrest match shooter)

The most important step I believe is properly sizing cases for optimum fit. I dedicate a group of cases to each rifle. I full size with a .001 to .002 shoulder bump. Full Sizing properly gives me reliable functioning and does not reduce case life or accuracy contrary to popular belief. I use RCBS and Redding dies.

I've found the single most significant factor is achieving accuracy is bullet selection provided you are using a powder that is suitable for the cartridge you are loading. I start load development at .020" off the lands provided the overall cartridge length will fit the magazine and I have enough bullet tension (my rule of thumb is seating to at least on bullet diameter). I never seat the bullet closer than .010" from the lands to allow for variation is bullet ogives and to assure that the bullet is not touching the lands.

On trimming I trim once I get to the max case length then trim back .010" or the amount specified in the loading manual. Depending on the cartridge / load, I normally have to trim 3 to 4 times before I retire a group of cases. Make sure you always chamfer the inside and outside of the necks after trimming and on new cases.

I've used a simple single stage RCBS press for almost 50 years. I single hand prime each case. Buy quality equipment and it will last you a life time. The Sinclair Priming Tool and the Wilson Case Trimmer with the Sinclair upgrades are a wise investment - they do an excellent job and will last a lifetime.

Learn pressure signs and heed them. Stay within the limits of the recommended powder charge for the bullet you are loading and work up slowly. I weigh every powder charge for rifle cartridges since I use stick powders which don't meter precisely.

Hope this is helpful. Good loading and shooting,