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Reloading for the 22BR ?

I'm starting with new Lapua 6BR cases and Redding Competition dies. I notice even the FL sizing die with bushing doesn't resize the entire neck to the shoulder. The Body die only sizes the shoulder and body. I'm left with a small section of neck just in front of the shoulder that is greater in diameter than the bulk of the neck. If I were to turn case necks, that part of the neck would not be uniform with the rest. Not saying I need to turn necks at all because my chamber has a .254 neck but this is driving me crazy. Do I need to buy a Forster FL sizing die in order to resize the entire neck? I notice Redding and RCBS only offer bushing dies in that caliber. Also - that un-sized portion of the neck causes the case head to protrude too far out of the base of a Wilson head-space gauge. Any thoughts?
 
I don't worry about it on my 22BR. Brass chambers fine even with that small section of unsized brass.
 
I have the redding 83316 form and trim die for 22br. I just put a case through it and I can see that it does not go all the way to the shoulder neck junction. I don't have a standard full length die, just a bushing die and my necks look perfectly formed. it's been too long since I did mine and it's not in my notes, as boltfluter said, I would think a FL die would work. this is a problem for me in forming a lot of my other wildcats as well. sorry I can't be of more help.
 
I'm starting with new Lapua 6BR cases and Redding Competition dies. I notice even the FL sizing die with bushing doesn't resize the entire neck to the shoulder. The Body die only sizes the shoulder and body. I'm left with a small section of neck just in front of the shoulder that is greater in diameter than the bulk of the neck. If I were to turn case necks, that part of the neck would not be uniform with the rest. Not saying I need to turn necks at all because my chamber has a .254 neck but this is driving me crazy. Do I need to buy a Forster FL sizing die in order to resize the entire neck? I notice Redding and RCBS only offer bushing dies in that caliber. Also - that un-sized portion of the neck causes the case head to protrude too far out of the base of a Wilson head-space gauge. Any thoughts?

That small donut at the neck shoulder junction is very desirable in a bolt gun. It accomplishes two important functions.

First, it provides a gas seal at the neck throat junction so that all the gas is available to push on the bullet. This also keeps your brass and action cleaner.

And secondly, it removes any headspace slop which results from pushing the shoulder back .001-003 during resizing. It gives a very slight, hardly noticeable crush fit that makes for more consistent firing pin contact. That means more consistent ignition, a proven accuracy component.

Non-bushing dies are appropriate for semi-auto firearms.
 
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So how do you turn necks if you want to?
I run very minimal neck tension, about 0.001 or so. I shoot it, then I run the expander plug down in the die and run the brass over the expander plug without sizing the outside of the brass. The plug barely touches the neck, but ensures it is round and the defects are pushed to the outside. Then I turn the brass.

If I were to do something differently, or more better :D, I'd buy a proper expander mandrel and die and use that instead of the plug in the Redding die.
 
I suppose the die could be chucked in a lathe and the requisite amount machined off the base (or maybe drop the bushing chamber)? What kind of shoulder reduction are you getting? How much Bump does the die produce? I like my dies to be moving brass, but not much...
 
So how do you turn necks if you want to?
With the chamber neck you have stated, why do you/why would you want to turn necks? My advice: don't turn neck, and keep your project simple, easy, and accurate.
 
I’m also starting a new 22br build and had the same concerns. I bought Norma 6br brass and ran them thru a Forster full length, non bushing die, part no 018101. It also left a small donut that did not size with the rest of the neck. My reamer is a .254 neck and measuring over a loaded brass I get a .251/.250 diameter. After fire forming there is no sign of a donut inside or out on the neck and a new slug will just slide inside the neck with very little resistance. I think Lapua brass has a .001-.002 thicker neck so load and shoot, then measure. If you have clearance then you are good to go, just load and enjoy.
 
I like the idea of the bushing dies but they do not size the entire neck. Furthermore the body dies that you get with a set doesn't affect the shoulder at all. I ended up buying a full length sizing die to perform the initial sizing of the Lapua 6BR cases. I'm finding that bushings in .001 increments provide too much change in neck tension to suit me. One size ends up about right and .001 in either direction is too loose or too tight. Might have to look for bushings in smaller increments if I want to tinker with neck tension. Have not tried Norma brass - just Lapua and if they don't make the bases I need I've gone with Nosler.
 
Would a custom Forster honed die work the best?? I hope I can do the same not turn the neck with a .253 chamber

With the chamber neck you have stated, why do you/why would you want to turn necks? My advice: don't turn neck, and keep your project simple, easy, and accurate.
 
There is another thread that discusses and describes how to achieve full length neck sizing. It involves removing metal where the bushing sits. I turn the necks first before staring the neck down process.
 

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