hiAre you using brand new, untouched Lapua brass?
New Lapua 6br necks are really tight and could use a mandrel
to open them up slightly.
Otherwise, you will just have a lot of neck tension the first firing.
hiWhat size bushing are you using?
hi
yes
.269
2.800 to the ogive, witch is close to the neck junction when seatedA couple of questions...
Have you directly measured the case neck ID and/or wall thickness at multiple locations? If yes, how much variation was detected? Was a “donut” detected at the neck/shoulder junction?
hi, yes seems consistant wall thickness is .0125 no donut, altho i dont neck size all the way down to the junction
How are the cases being cleaned between firings?
they are wet cleaned with pins or 0000 steel wool on the necks to remove carbon
Is there a chamfer present on the neck ID and no burrs present?
yes rcbs trim mate inside and outside and did a few manually to be sure was no difference, no burrs
Is lube being used during seating?
yes, one shot spray was applied before sizing, outside and inside the neck
To what depth are bullets being seated?
yes added in the tool oopsYou mean 1.80" ?
im no great shot but here ya go for my experience. are you brushing the inside of the necks with a nylon brush, if not try it. if you are cleaning the brass, try stopping. resize, wipe them well, brush inside of neck and try. the carbon inside the neck has value, my vote is to leave it there. my bullets would seat tuff if I forgot to brush the inside of the neck. also, I chuck the brush up in a drill and spin it, not by hand. I was told not to lube the bullets or inside of the neck, another variable to have to control. of course, you can ask 20 folks and get 25 different answers. good luck sirquestion
while reloading this weekend I noticed some of the vld's take a lot of pressure to start in the brass while being seated, then go smoothly , while others seat with ease, its like the transition on the base of the bullet acts as a hump?, to push past
thoughts?
thx.
You guys must have nylon brushes made of carbide. When I nylon brush a case neck almost nothing comes out. Even a vigorous brass brushing leaves most of the carbon in my cases.im no great shot but here ya go for my experience. are you brushing the inside of the necks with a nylon brush, if not try it. if you are cleaning the brass, try stopping. resize, wipe them well, brush inside of neck and try. the carbon inside the neck has value, my vote is to leave it there. my bullets would seat tuff if I forgot to brush the inside of the neck. also, I chuck the brush up in a drill and spin it, not by hand. I was told not to lube the bullets or inside of the neck, another variable to have to control. of course, you can ask 20 folks and get 25 different answers. good luck sir![]()
the goal is to LEAVE the black carbon in the neck. if you look closely at your brass a few days after you shoot it you will see a light substance starting to form. maybe like corrosion ( it does in mine, the humidity is like 90% all the time where I live so maybe just mine) or something. I have seated bullets when I have forgotten to brush them and seating is far more difficult and erratic. when I remember to brush, smooth and consistentYou guys must have nylon brushes made of carbide. When I nylon brush a case neck almost nothing comes out. Even a vigorous brass brushing leaves most of the carbon in my cases.
Anyway to the OP I would look carefully at work hardening. Also apply some of the Redding dry graphite lube on the bullets or swabbed inside the necks. That should greatly reduce the severity of the variation.
David
the goal is to LEAVE the black carbon in the neck.
That is one philosophy and I agree it can work. I had hell of a time with poor seating (not mere force variation, but creaking and grabbing) and brass brush + annealing + dry lube eliminated it for me. Nylon brushing did nothing.