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Reloading 6.5x47L

I recently converted a Savage 12 LRP rifle from 243 to 6.5x47 Lapua (did the go/no-go gauge and everything went according to plan). Since there is no brass in the country right now (or at least a couple weeks ago), I bought 40 rounds of Lapua 123 gr ammo. I took it to the range and it shot great. New barrell, bad shooter, factory ammo and I was grouping (5 shot groups) < 0.4 inches (not bad for me).

I took the brass home and went to start reloading. I had read that a 0.308 shellholder would work. My brass wouldn't fit. hmm. I didn't think much about and figured I just had the wrong size. I looked up on here and confirmed it should be the same as a 308. Here is where it gets interesting.

I took a factory round and it would fit in my 308 shellholder but just barely. It was tight and would not go all the way in without excessive force. My fired brass would not go in at all. I checked the dimensions of brass just above the head and they were the same. However, the indention of the brass just above the head (sorry, I am not sure what it is called) had swelled in the fired brass by about 0.015". Therefore, no way to fit in my shellholder. I happen to be using Lee shellholders, but I am pretty sure I will run into the same issue with other brands. I am going to pick up an RCBS shellholder probably tomorrow or the weekend.

Have you guys run into this before. While I don't have tons of experience, I have been reloading for about 10 years with about 8 calibers and never ran across this. I figure if all else fails, I can carefully dremel a case holder out.
 
Hi Gander! Recently had an issue w/ shell holders & 6.5X47L. My problem had to do w/ the ability to set shoulder back far enough to achieve .001" to .0015" hd space. Ordered shell holders from several Mfg's. The Lee S/H had the most accurate dimensions. Really! Opted to mill .001" from RCBS shell holder to attain adequate bump. That shell holder is now stored w/ the die set. (same dies as yours). If it were me, I'd dremel the shell holder slot w/ fine & medium Cratex drums. Go slow, the S/H steel is really hard stuff. Your task is to remove material from both sides of slot uniformly to keep brass centered to die. This method might be challenging. Try to concentrate on the area of the slot thats making contact w/ your brass. If you have access to a lathe you might be able to reduce extractor groove just enough for a snug fit. If you'd like, I'll send you a sample of my brass which fits all my .308 S/H's so you can compare measurements. Dale
 
I don't know the number of 243 rounds. I bought the rifle used, but there was still some original paint on the portions of bolt which led me to believe that last owner finally got frustrated and sold it. As the 243 barrel would heat up it would start throwing shots everywhere (cold about a 1" group to warm with a 6+" group). I tried at least 4 powders and 5 bullets and it wouldn't like anything I fed it. also checked the normal stuff (bedding, scope, rings, torqued everything).

Finally, I bought a new criterion barrel in 6.5x47 from NSS. Based on the first set of shots (shot 30 of my 40 rounds), it was obviously a barrel issue since the rifle now performs well.

Dale: i was thinking about trying some lapping compund on a piece of brass, but I didnt realize the steel was that hard. My main concern with a dremel is maintaining concentricity. I have unfired brass on order, but it looks like the ship date keeps moving. I may play around with the shellholder tonight if I have time. At least someone else has had an issue.

I am going to be using Hornady dies (if i can get the case in the shellholder).
 

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