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Reloading .308 Winchester : Dies and brass....

Got a few questions....
What do you Guys use as reloading Dies for this caliber ?
Let alone neck sizing only, what kinda Dies should One get ?
For sizing......Redding FL Bushing Type "S" ? Forster ? Other ?
Do you know what bushing size is needed with Lapua brass ?

And for Seating bullets ? Redding competition vs. Forster Ultra ? Other brands ?

Is turning neck a "must" while using bushing type Dies ?
Do not know Jack about this procedure though... :o

What about brass ? What's the difference in performance between standard Lapua (Large rifle Primer pocket) and Lapua Palma small rifle ?
Is the latter better for pushing the limits ?

Apologies for the many questions..... :P
....just trying to know more.... ;)

Thank you for your help...
G66
 
All depends how "Invested" you want to get.

IF your chasing F-T/R national records go with a set of custom made dies that work your fireformed brass very little.

Now brass Lapua small primers take pressure a little better than the Large stuff since you have more brass around the head.

Always FL size BUT that argument will turn any humble shooter into madness.

Bushing diameter has a direct correlation with the amount of tension you are running in your neck and work harden the brass might need a tighter bushing.

Now if your into the tactical PRS type deal good set of dies and winchester brass and a soild load development will get yoh started.

Get your hands ON Mr.Litz books as well


Forester are great dies, look at Whidden dies well.

i would go with the Forester FL and Micrometer seater.
 
I've been reloading 308 for many years and my current setup is:

Redding Type "S" dies using .331 bushing on Lapua large primer brass--of course the bushing size will depend on your particular loaded round dimensions so you might want to start with a couple different size bushings. I do not turn necks--

I tried the small primer Lapua once--did not push the envelope on pressures so cannot say for sure that the small primer stuff was any better than the large primer--although I understand that is why Lapua produces the small primer--so reloaders can squeeze that little bit extra from their loads-

I try to bump the shoulder about .002 and this has always resulted in brass that functions fine with no tight chambering--

I use a Forester Ultra Seater--have been happy with it--also have Redding Competition Seaters in other calibers and like them also--the Forester just happened to be what was available when I needed one.

Have used Federal, Lake City, Norma and Winchester brass over the years--have had issues with Federal brass developing loose primer pockets sooner than I thought they should--not shooting hot loads--now using Lapua just to keep some consistency in my loading operation--

If shooting middle of the road loads, quality brass should last for many firings--so annealing might be something to explore--

Good luck with your endeavor--
 
I too like and use the Forester ultra seater die. I would suggest that long before you ever worry about Type S bushing dies or small flash holes you learn about headspace and how to measure and adjust your brass accordingly with the size die. I believe this is something every reloader that seeks accuracy and safety should make a priority. Second, it is a very good thing to learn how to anneal your brass...work hardened brass is a very common problem that I have never seen solved with bushing dies.
Part of the challenge you face as a new reloader is sifting thru all the "true or false" when it comes to information. Besides the true/false dilemma is the figuring out which steps really make a difference and will yield tangible results in your shooting and which ones really wont matter enough to bother doing.
All that said, I suggest you get a set of full length dies{there are really no bad ones}, a borescope {which will ultimately lead you to a product called JB Bore Cleaner}, the tooling to measure headspace and some good solid info on annealing, bullet concentricity and good shooting techniques. Forget about all the little trinkets and doo-dads that people talk about when they want to impress their buddies or think they are intimidating a competitor. Best of luck and good shooting!!!
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUnrYp0NH38

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Igse-APgpEc

Two videos to peruse that may aid you in your path/decisions on your equipment.
David Tubb's videos have been around a while, and likely there are things you may wish to add in your process, but as good an introduction as you are likely to find for free.
Brian Litz's works are indeed to be sought after.
GotRDid.
 
Use a Bushing die and you may have to deal with donuts...

Forster full length body die and use a set of Redding shell
holders to bump the shoulder.
The body die will not size the neck and the Redding shell holders come in step sizes to adjust the bump.

Then a Lee collet die last to size the neck. No donuts to fool with and you can size the Lee collet stem for whatever diameter you like
 
I agree, a little more info on the rifle and your intended use would help answer your questions. I use a Redding full length sizing die and a Redding competition seater. I would look hard at Whidden dies, also. I've never used the Foster seater but it is well liked. I don't like using bushing dies without turning the necks. Many do and get good results. You can't go wrong with either choice in Lapua brass, but I have stayed with the large primer.

The 308 is an easy cartridge to load for. There are a ton of good powder/bullet/case combos to choose from. Good Luck!
 
You don't have to spend big bucks to get great results. I don't shoot competition but I've owned higher dollar equipment. Had enough of that crap and went back to the basics with no regrets. The important thing is to be completely familiar with whatever equipment you get and have fun.
 
G66,
Welcome aboard. I agree with what the others have said in terms of stating your intended use and goals in reloading. As far as dies go, you need to approach your reloading from the particulars of the rifle you are reloading for. Turning brass is more specific to the needs and particulars of your chamber. In other words, do you have an across the counter SAAMI spec chamber or a custom chamber where the reamer used was specific to the brass (neck size) it was set up for. Clearance (in the chamber) is an important consideration when reloading for best accuracy whereas a "ballpark" clearance will provide good accuracy in a SAAMI spec chamber. Personally, I use a Redding FL Bushing Die for my Benchrest .308 (has a custom chamber), but use a standard Redding FL Die in my across the counter Remington .308 and get great results. (I always seat my bullets using Wilson Dies) And bullets seating depth makes a great difference with both rifles and some rifle shoot better with bullets being "jammed" while others love the jump and hate the jam. Only testing will tell you which your rifle likes and performs the best with. And that process can take time, but helps your to "learn" the tendencies of your particular rifle. Others may suggest where to seat, but those suggestion may not work because each chamber is unique. So listen to what others say, but your rifle will not lie to you and has the final say. As far as brass goes, after testing several brands over the years, I've settled on Lapua which gives me the best results and brass life. Good luck and have fun.
Shy
 
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