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redding t7 turret switch out, work good for multiple calibers?

so what i use is a redding t7 turret. i have 2 turrets so that i can switch them out easily, does any one else do this? and have you had good success with not having to re set your dies. for instance, if you load 6.5 cm and 6.5 saum on one turret, with the resizers and seaters,,, then you decide to reload some 7mm rem mag on the other turret that you had already set up as well, any dramas with the switching? thanks for any input.

at this time i am not looking to buy a whole new set up for those of you who do have a better set up than mine, i am just looking for folks who do it this way now.

i do realize there is probably a better set up and maybe someday it will happen.
 
Yes I have had a second turret for my T7 for ... 8 to 10 years or so, hard to remember exactly. I make sure I always use the same shell holder every time for the respective die/caliber set, in my experience and opinion shell holders from different companies for the same caliber can be close but not always exactly the same.
Other than that, 2 turrets, dies always stay mounted and adjusted, and I swap away.
Not much more to it than that.
 
Two T7 turrets work great for me, loading pistol calibers. I swap back and forth, and use the same shell holder I set the dies up with originally, and get NO variation from the dimensions I had before swapping. (There is a tiny bit of "rock" of the turrets, so I don't think I would load rifle cases on a turret press. I prefer single-stage presses and in-line seating dies for my rifle cases. But, I haven't tried loading rifle cases on the T7. If I did, I would check run-out of the loaded rounds.)

Other than a progressive press, the Redding T7 is the best productivity press available, in my opinion.

BTW, I have never personally witnessed a squib that was NOT loaded on a progressive press... I like using the T7 so I can throw powder off-press, and visually inspect each and every case. I resize and expand, then wet tumble the cases with SS pins. Next I seat primers and throw powder. Finally, I seat the bullets and taper crimp in a separate die. The T7 is perfect for this.

Plus, I am retired now, so I don't need the extra speed enough to drop the coin on a Dillon.
 
I keep reading that the slight tipping of the turret is (or may) be detrimental to runout, erratic set back, or changes in the tides, etc. I used an RCBS Junior for 30+ years and now a T7 for around 10 years. Both presses make ammo as concentric as the dies allow, as I have used the same dies in both. I loaded all my 6 Dasher ammo with the T7 when I competed in our F class group using Lapua brass and Forster honed die .001 to .000 runout. I am satisfied the T7 press is dead nuts accurate, at least the one I have. Barlow
 
I’ve got 4 turrets at the moment. Two are for pistol and 2 for rifle. Swap back and forth all the time with no issues. I used a rock chucker for a few years and it was great, but the T-7 is the way to go, when you load multiple calibers.
 
No issues swapping turrets. To avoid shell holder thickness variation issues, I only size, expand, and decap on the T7. I leave the seating up to the Forster Coax press or my 21st Century Arbor press.
 
so what i use is a redding t7 turret. i have 2 turrets so that i can switch them out easily, does any one else do this? and have you had good success with not having to re set your dies. for instance, if you load 6.5 cm and 6.5 saum on one turret, with the resizers and seaters,,, then you decide to reload some 7mm rem mag on the other turret that you had already set up as well, any dramas with the switching? thanks for any input.

at this time i am not looking to buy a whole new set up for those of you who do have a better set up than mine, i am just looking for folks who do it this way now.

i do realize there is probably a better set up and maybe someday it will happen.
Yes, I have 4 turrets. I do NOT put two calibers on the same turret to reduce every possible oops. The only gotcha on switching is that little bitty detent ball sitting on a spring under the turret head. When you get ready to take it off, watch out for that bearing (ball). Make sure your hex head wrench is fully seated to prevent any galling of the hole.
 
I keep reading that the slight tipping of the turret is (or may) be detrimental to runout, erratic set back, or changes in the tides, etc. I used an RCBS Junior for 30+ years and now a T7 for around 10 years. Both presses make ammo as concentric as the dies allow, as I have used the same dies in both. I loaded all my 6 Dasher ammo with the T7 when I competed in our F class group using Lapua brass and Forster honed die .001 to .000 runout. I am satisfied the T7 press is dead nuts accurate, at least the one I have. Barlow

It is good to hear you aren't getting runout with rifle calibers on your T7. I just may try loading for rifles on mine in the future...
 
My runout is negligible on the T7 as well. Dont really even check runout anymore anyhow. I only start digging and checking into things like runout if I'm having trouble getting a rifle to shoot. Or if I'm doing a new bedding job on a bullet seater plug.
 
I honestly really like my T7. Wouldn't even consider selling it.
My other presses have their places and purposes, but i probably use the T7 the most. They are built like a battle tank. I have the primer tube attachment and the turret stacker stand, turning handle, extra turrets, etc. Its really conveinient when I'm turning necks on once fired cases. I deprime the case with my universal decapping die, move the turret and FL size the case, then flip to my expander die to open up the neck, (turn the neck) chuck it back in the T7 to FL size again, pull the plunger back to receive a primer from the tube, push it forward under the shell holder and seat the ignition switch. Then it gets a powder charge and off to the Coax or Arbor press for bullet seating. It's close to the convenience of a progressive press, but also provides the same amount of precision that any other single stage press available on the market can give you.
 
thanks for the tips, especially about the spring loaded balls. are the balls in the turret or in the press?

how do you only have one caliber per turret, i have 3 on the one plus a universal decapper, don't you have a bunch of empty holes? i still haven't even used the other but am getting ready to. what sort of mistakes have you seen happen?
 
I honestly really like my T7. Wouldn't even consider selling it.
My other presses have their places and purposes, but i probably use the T7 the most. They are built like a battle tank. I have the primer tube attachment and the turret stacker stand, turning handle, extra turrets, etc. Its really conveinient when I'm turning necks on once fired cases. I deprime the case with my universal decapping die, move the turret and FL size the case, then flip to my expander die to open up the neck, (turn the neck) chuck it back in the T7 to FL size again, pull the plunger back to receive a primer from the tube, push it forward under the shell holder and seat the ignition switch. Then it gets a powder charge and off to the Coax or Arbor press for bullet seating. It's close to the convenience of a progressive press, but also provides the same amount of precision that any other single stage press available on the market can give you.
sounds good ledd-- i have some ideas how one would help me out. ill prob give one a try. thanks
 
thanks for the tips, especially about the spring loaded balls. are the balls in the turret or in the press?

how do you only have one caliber per turret, i have 3 on the one plus a universal decapper, don't you have a bunch of empty holes? i still haven't even used the other but am getting ready to. what sort of mistakes have you seen happen?

Ball is in the press on the back side of the frame. Just keep good downward pressure on the turret as you loosen the center bolt for changing. Once bolt is backed all the way out, slowly and carefully lift the turret keeping positive control until you don't feel any more upward pressure on the turret. The ball should be sitting there on top of the spring.

Line up a detent with the ball when mounting a new turret and don't forget to apply grease to the ball, the bottom of the turret (where the ball travels) and the center bolt pivot collar.

Pretty quick and simple once you get used to it. Try to remember not to grab the bottom of the turret with your hand, but you will. I still do it from time to time
 
I was using my T7 yesterday sizing some 308 Win and 7x57 cases. To achieve the desired set back the lever cams over a bit. The shell holder makes full contact with the die base before the cam over occurs, so the case is completely captured by the die before any movement in the turret. If one thinks that the movement is detrimental, it would be easy to place a wood dowel, or metal shaft of the correct length and place it on the backside of the turret under the turret on the bench top to eliminate any movement. I don't think it's necessary, but it could easily be done if you are inclined to do it. JMO Barlow
 
Maybe last but not least. Each turret comes with it's own sleeve or bearing insert in the center of it. Do NOT change these from turret to turret and if not careful they will fall out on you. They fit that turret and only that turret they came with. I use a small dab of grease on the detent ball to make it 'stick' to the spring it sits on before lining up the new turret. It also lubes the bottom of the new turret as it spins from station to station.
 
I keep reading that the slight tipping of the turret is (or may) be detrimental to runout, erratic set back, or changes in the tides, etc. I used an RCBS Junior for 30+ years and now a T7 for around 10 years. Both presses make ammo as concentric as the dies allow, as I have used the same dies in both. I loaded all my 6 Dasher ammo with the T7 when I competed in our F class group using Lapua brass and Forster honed die .001 to .000 runout. I am satisfied the T7 press is dead nuts accurate, at least the one I have. Barlow
Reply to myself? The gap between the turret and rear base frame on mine is .007. Slide a .006 or .007 shim into that gap when sizing if tipping is a concern. Barlow
 

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