Redding Die Recommendation....Neck Turning Required when using Lapua Brass?

[done111]

Currently I have been using Redding body die with competition shell holder to size body only with 0.002" shoulder bump. Then I have been using a Lee collet die to size neck as a separate operation. I'm thinking of changing how I neck size and go with a Redding die to size with a bushing. I understand the bushing pushes from the outside of the neck and doesn't have a center sizing pin to pull through to final size the ID of the neck? If I understand this correctly, is anyone doing this without neck turning first with Lapua brass. I just purchased a batch of 6.5 Creedmoor brass Lapua SPP. I'm hoping the Lapua brass is consistent enough to not have to neck turn it.

Can anyone help point me to a Redding die to up my game and lower my SD and ES as far as neck sizing? Should I continue to body size and then neck size as two different operations? Will i gain more consistent neck tension by changing from neck sizing with Lee to a Redding die? Am I kidding myself not getting into neck turning? Am I being to caution not pulling a sized rod through the ID to final size my neck ID? Should I be getting a Redding die that sizes body and neck at size time that is same or more accurate? My end goal is to make neck tension very consistent.

Don

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Get a FL bushing die. Dont even contemplate on multiple dies and damn sure no neck dies. If youre in a game that requires you to then you should neck turn. If youre going out to bang steel dont worry about it. People get way too caught up these days in things that are lost in the noise. Simplify your life- use a bushing die with no expander and have fun. If your gun is stuck shooting .250 aggs at 100 and you think your ammo runout is holding you back then get into neck turning. Its really not difficult to skim cut your necks for better tension but with lapua brass most times its not necessary to stress over it for what youre doing- you have to be the judge of when its holding you back.

 

[Chris Few]

I run a Wilson FL bushing die and really like it. I don’t neck turn my brass and don’t use the expander ball on the die but I do run a Sinclair expander mandrel through the neck before I seat a bullet. You can’t go wrong with Redding but I was so happy with my Wilson that I bought one for my straight 284 as well.

 

[243winxb]

The Redding FL sizing type S bushing die can be used with or without the expander. Test to see what works best with unturned necks for you. http://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/expander-ball-kits-and-sets/

 

[Buckeyedoc87]

Harrell's precision will match out a size perfect for your chamber that won't way over size and can neck size simultaneously with bushing if wanted. Use it with expander mandrel to barely expand enough to seat bullet with retention you need. The idea is not to overwork the brass(expand/ contract/expand/contract) any more than you have to make it last. Full neck turn is required in the beginning of a batch if the neck wall thickness has to be thinned in order to fit a tight chamber after bullet is seated. Then all of the cases in that batch have to be turned to match exactly(within reason). Zedicker recommends for accuracy in AR rifle partial neck turn for outer wall concentricity even tho you don't have to full neck turn for chamber seat reasons. I used to hate neck turning and all the steps until I got the 21st Century lathe and motorized it.