recoil lug bedded front and rear?

[ttfreestyle]

Should the recoil lug be bedded all the way around it or just on the action side? thanks

 

[AWLEAPHART]

That makes two us wanting to know. I have seen in done with just tape on the bottom of the lug and also seen it done with tape on bottom anf front of lug. Some smith bed just to the lug but others bed about a inch or so in front of the jug. Whats better or more right?
Anthony

 

[Terry]

I put one layer of masking tape on the bottom, sides, and front of the recoil lug when bedding the entire action. I build a dam of silly putty 1" in front of the recoil lug.

Terry

 

[acloco]

...and I bed the whole works....including a portion at the bottom of the chamber in front of the lug.

 

[Preacher]

If you want the action to be solidly bedded, why tape better than half the lug off before you bed it..
I tape the bottom of the lug only, but I do use custom lugs that are ground flat..
If I was using a factory lug I would tape it all over so it dont stick..
I never bed in front of the lug, if it's going to be floated, let it float..

 

[ttfreestyle]

Guess this is kinda like which bore cleaner is best, huh. Well i have two guns bedded rear only and i just finished another bedded all the way around the lug. If it doesnt shoot as well as it used to or better i guess i will grind the front and bottom bedding out.

 

[apakesha]

I was taught to bed the back of the lug only and tape the front sides and bottom. The reason given is for expansion when the action gets hot so it won't affect accuracy from heat induced stress.

 

[lloydx2]

Here we go.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

You are right Lloyd, here we go. Bed the lug, front ways side ways up ways, back ways, etc. Then you will know why they are tapered (sp). I bed a rifle and have to smack it a few times against the top of the butt to get it loose after the bedding process. Just means it is well bedded.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

...and I bed the whole works....including a portion at the bottom of the chamber in front of the lug.

And yes to that too

 

[johara1]

Bed the lug 100% with 2 layers of tape on the bottom, then after you bed round the bottom corners so they don't dig in when you put it back together...jim

 

[Greg110]

Well gentlemen, it just so happens I have a Rem 700 barreled and bedded by old Roy Dunlap. Now, this was done about 35 or 40 years ago and I realize things change, but Roy used a custom lug, bedded about an inch in front of it and, from what I can tell, taped the bottom and front of the lug. The action is still in the original Rem wood stock, no pillars. the barrel is a 26" varmint contour in .308 and it shoots Fed Gold Medal Match168's into about .330 all day. Oh yes, the tail of the action has no bedding. Go figure.

 

[6shooter]

Just to confuse the matter.....check out this method.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1167022&page=1

 

[Mgordon]

We know the rifle moves in the stock from shot to shot. We can see high speed video of the barrel whipping around and the scope flexing, so we know this happens. It makes sense to me to bed the rifle so its always pulled back into the same spot every time. If you have too much resistance then you can start to bind the action and it prevents things from settling back in to the same spot shot after shot.

Mark

 

[kgunz11]

Those of you giving advise, please post the name of your shop and how long you've been building rifles. It would be interesting to see how things/techniques have changed over the years.

I personally tape the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. The rear surface of the lug is the ONLY surface that matters. When I bed a rifle in my shop, it will be taken in and out of that stock another dozen times before the customer ever receives the rifle. Having the room around the lug makes them slip right out. The purpose for bedding behind the lug is to give a rigid surface for the lug to recoil against without "giving" like wood or fiberglass would. There is absolutely no reason to bed forward of the lug. Having it where the stock can be removed without "smacking it" also maintains the integrity of the stock against damage.

Bobby Keigans
Freedom Gunworks Inc.

 

[kennyg]

Sir,

I am new to working on precision rifles and have been following this thread with interest. I am about to bed my long action Savage 7 SAUM into a laminate stock. The barrel is a heavy varmint profile 28 inches long plus muzzle brake. I have read that on braked rifles it is good to bed the front of the lug tight (still tape the sides and bottom) because of the forces pulling the rifle forward from the brake. I am also debating about whether or not to bed the first couple inches under the barrel to help support the heavy barrel. Any advice for a newbie??

Thanks,
Kenny

Those of you giving advise, please post the name of your shop and how long you've been building rifles. It would be interesting to see how things/techniques have changed over the years.

I personally tape the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. The rear surface of the lug is the ONLY surface that matters. When I bed a rifle in my shop, it will be taken in and out of that stock another dozen times before the customer ever receives the rifle. Having the room around the lug makes them slip right out. The purpose for bedding behind the lug is to give a rigid surface for the lug to recoil against without "giving" like wood or fiberglass would. There is absolutely no reason to bed forward of the lug. Having it where the stock can be removed without "smacking it" also maintains the integrity of the stock against damage.

Bobby Keigans
Freedom Gunworks Inc.

 

[ttfreestyle]

kgunz11, after bedding this rifle fully around the recoil lug and testing it (wanted to see for myself if it made any difference)I am with your beliefs. It did not shoot as well as before with the lug fully bedded. I then took a Dremmel and removed the bedding from the front , sides and bottom leaving just the rear bedded and it is back to the half moa it has been shooting(it was previously in h s prec alum bedding block stock shooting half moa out to 600). I will tape the front , sides, and bottom in the future as this seems to work well for me.

 

[Mgordon]

Bobby, Good to "see" you.

"Those of you giving advise, please post the name of your shop and how long you've been building rifles. It would be interesting to see how things/techniques have changed over the years."


Mark Gordon
Short Action Customs, LLC
Wellington, Ohio 44090

 

[kgunz11]

Likewise Mark. I hope the honeymoon is going well for you!

 

[kgunz11]

Sir,

I am new to working on precision rifles and have been following this thread with interest. I am about to bed my long action Savage 7 SAUM into a laminate stock. The barrel is a heavy varmint profile 28 inches long plus muzzle brake. I have read that on braked rifles it is good to bed the front of the lug tight (still tape the sides and bottom) because of the forces pulling the rifle forward from the brake. I am also debating about whether or not to bed the first couple inches under the barrel to help support the heavy barrel. Any advice for a newbie??

Thanks,
Kenny

Those of you giving advise, please post the name of your shop and how long you've been building rifles. It would be interesting to see how things/techniques have changed over the years.

I personally tape the front, sides, and bottom of the recoil lug. The rear surface of the lug is the ONLY surface that matters. When I bed a rifle in my shop, it will be taken in and out of that stock another dozen times before the customer ever receives the rifle. Having the room around the lug makes them slip right out. The purpose for bedding behind the lug is to give a rigid surface for the lug to recoil against without "giving" like wood or fiberglass would. There is absolutely no reason to bed forward of the lug. Having it where the stock can be removed without "smacking it" also maintains the integrity of the stock against damage.

Bobby Keigans
Freedom Gunworks Inc.

When you find a muzzle brake so effective that it pulls the rifle away from recoil (and the 40-60 in lbs of action screw torque), let me know. I need one or three of those!