Recoil lug and scope base pinning

[Rich S]

I'm planning to pin the recoil lug and scope base on a couple Remington 700 actions. Any recommendations on the diameter and depth of the holes? My assumption is to use hardened dowl pins.

I assume 2 pins is the way to go on the recoil lug. If so is there a recommended orientation? I was thinking 30 deg offset each direction from the bottom of the reciever.

Any advice or help finding old post with this information is appreciated.

 

[boltfluter]

I'm planning to pin the recoil lug and scope base on a couple Remington 700 actions. Any recommendations on the diameter and depth of the holes? My assumption is to use hardened dowl pins.

I assume 2 pins is the way to go on the recoil lug. If so is there a recommended orientation? I was thinking 30 deg offset each direction from the bottom of the reciever.



Any advice or help finding old post with this information is appreciated.

30 deg will work well. I am offering a new line of recoil lugs with these specs. 410 stainless, dual or single pin option, .250 thickness, surface ground. Oversize tennon hole option available, uses 3/32 hardened pins. 28.00 each + 3.00 shipping. FFL/smith pricing available. Will post pic shortly. Feel free to pm me.

Thanks, Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[RWO]

I'm planning to pin the recoil lug and scope base on a couple Remington 700 actions. Any recommendations on the diameter and depth of the holes? My assumption is to use hardened dowl pins.

I assume 2 pins is the way to go on the recoil lug. If so is there a recommended orientation? I was thinking 30 deg offset each direction from the bottom of the reciever.

Any advice or help finding old post with this information is appreciated.

Why? Do you really think 2 hardened pins are necessary to prevent rotation during barrel turn-up? It's just the same old belt and suspenders approach that burdens the entire gun-smithing industry. A single pin made out of regular 01 drill rod would do fine unless you are changing barrels every other day. The pin is in pure shear and is not going to deform with the normal barrel torque of about 75-100 ft-#.

RWO

 

[Alex Wheeler]

The issue with a single pin is the barrel tenon has to fit the id of the lug perfectly to maintain alignment. 2 pins through the lug, and the lug will never move. I use 2, 3/32 pins, 1/4" deep 30 degrees off center. Use carbide drill and reamer. For rails I drill and ream a hole centered between the scope mount holes. I use an 1/8" dowel pin here and press the pins into the bases.

 

[Rich S]

Thanks for the comments.
RWO - Maintaining alignment without relying on the tennon fit as Alex stated is why I was leaning toward 2 pins. I realize if the tennon and lug are machined properly there should be minimal movement. I figured once I had it indicated in on a mill the extra pin would be easy to add.

 

[284winner]

I cannot speak on the recoil lug pin but for the base rail, I prefer roll pins. They seem to hold better. Constant tension on the pin due to its design. Two ways to go. Drill through and through or only drill into the action 3/4. The latter will NOT allow easy removal of the base. Drilling out the pin will be necessary. Through and through drilling will allow pushing the pin thru if necessary. Getting proper pin length is important so as to not allow any excess pin in the bolt area of the action. Keep in mind pinning is only for extra insurance in case either screw begins to loosen slightly. I've used JB weld in the pin holes also and it acts like actual steel pins. I've put it in the pin holes, mounted a scope and shot the gun WITHOUT the screws( I used the screws to tighten down base while the JB weld hardened but pulled them for the test).Never lost zero. I only shot 20 times just as a test but it shows the strength of the compound.

 

[hogpatrol]

I use one pin, drill rod, 3/32" but as in any machining or smithing process, there are many and most of them work equally well. Whatever one feels comfortable with is the way to go.

 

[yotehater]

[QUOTE"284winner, post: 36870086, member: 1296867"]I cannot speak on the recoil lug pin but for the base rail, I prefer roll pins. They seem to hold better. Constant tension on the pin due to its design. Two ways to go. Drill through and through or only drill into the action 3/4. The latter will NOT allow easy removal of the base. Drilling out the pin will be necessary. Through and through drilling will allow pushing the pin thru if necessary. Getting proper pin length is important so as to not allow any excess pin in the bolt area of the action. Keep in mind pinning is only for extra insurance in case either screw begins to loosen slightly. I've used JB weld in the pin holes also and it acts like actual steel pins. I've put it in the pin holes, mounted a scope and shot the gun WITHOUT the screws( I used the screws to tighten down base while the JB weld hardened but pulled them for the test).Never lost zero. I only shot 20 times just as a test but it shows the strength of the compound.[/QUOTE]


284winner that is interesting, good old JB weld. Great experiment, not to be accused of being a troll, I'd like to know how you go about cleaning and mating using it. I've always been afraid of making a mess and having used too much. I had a 6mm Rem bonded back in 87 that left some squished out of the inletting and hardened showing a grey line around the action. Pm if off topic. Thanks.

 

[284winner]

Was initially an experiment using a light coat on the bottom of a pic rail. Once mounted and screws tightened, I cleaned off the excess with acetone and a Q tip. Cleaned up well with no noticeable weld showing under rail. Few years later when removing the scope and bars screws noticed it's like a true weld and rock solid. Took a bit to remove but cleaned up easily with acetone. Also breaks down using acetone as well. Next mounting project found me using the JB weld in my pin holes for strength. I didn't have correct size roll pins and didn't want to use a tapered pin so I "Trolled it" and rolled the dice. It worked great. Not saying I incorporate that technique on my recent builds bit having done it and knowing it works great, I'd do it again if I needed to.

 

[yotehater]

Thank you, that is good to know.