Receiver Tap Question

[Bully]

Just wondering if one of these is the same thing Brownell's sells for a bit more? I'm getting setup to screw my first rifle together and I'm not all that comfortable picking up and truing the inside threads just yet. My thought is to cut the barrel tenon and chamber, true the receiver face and lug abutments and face and go from there. I want to tackle it but NOT bite off more than I can currently chew.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLNJAVU/?tag=accuratescom-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735K1MY9/?tag=accuratescom-20

 

[Preacher]

All they will do is follow the existing threads...
They will not fix crooked....

 

[GNERGY]

I wouldn't worry about recutting the action threads. I make sure the face of the action is square and where the lugs seat is also even and square. That is all I do when I barrel an action.
Tarey

 

[geraldgee]

Just a dumb question from a guy who is NOT a gunsmith:
If you were going to chase the receiver threads - would that not be done before you machined the barrel tenon? Isn’t the barrel tenon dimensions dependent on the internal threads of the action?

 

[Pablo]

Just wondering if one of these is the same thing Brownell's sells for a bit more? I'm getting setup to screw my first rifle together and I'm not all that comfortable picking up and truing the inside threads just yet. My thought is to cut the barrel tenon and chamber, true the receiver face and lug abutments and face and go from there. I want to tackle it but NOT bite off more than I can currently chew.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLNJAVU/?tag=accuratescom-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735K1MY9/?tag=accuratescom-20

You wouldn't fix anything with those taps except get the crap Remington put on the threads out of the front of the receiver. PT&G and Dave Manson make 700 truing kits that have a guided tap in the set, that one will help the thread alignment a bit, it will also true the lug face up. A bunch of guys on here don't like that kit, there are others that think it will adequately do the job on most Remington receivers. Keep in mind that some 700 actions belong on the junk pile. Many are pretty good, kind of a crapshoot.

 

[Preacher]

Just a dumb question from a guy who is NOT a gunsmith:
If you were going to chase the receiver threads - would that not be done before you machined the barrel tenon? Isn’t the barrel tenon dimensions dependent on the internal threads of the action?

Yes it is, that's why lots of smith's like to have the action in hand to make sure no one has opened it up to a larger diameter....

 

[Bully]

So...
I'm not looking to "fix" anything with the taps. I know why taps are used and what the limitations are. I just want to know if either is a solid replacement for the one Brownell's sells for 30 dollars more.
Thanks.

 

[ridgeway]

I'm sure the difference in price is the quality. Looks like the Amazon ones are imports. The Brownells is a USA made tap. Gotta be careful with import taps...

 

[DaveTooley]

Back several decades, like 3+ we didn't have the tooling or the lathes we have now. I can't tell you how many Remingtons I built just chasing the threads with a tap to clean them up. Trued the receiver face along with receiver and bolt lugs and they all shot just as good as the ones I build now with trued threads. Whether trued or not the key is loose fitting threads. Loose threads mean square shoulders.

 

[tobnpr]

^^^
Impossible to know from the information available.
H limits for the taps aren't specified, and no way to know manufacturer/quality.
Brownell's usually sells decent quality, but I'm no fan of their taps in general and buy mine elsewhere.

 

[eddief]

When it comes to any tap, buy the absolute best you can afford. They cut WAY better and will last much longer. Single point is the best way if you are comfortable doing it. If not, the kit by Manson or PTG will do the next best job. There are some big reputable accuracy shops using the kit systems out there, why? Volume, and they work pretty good.

You will get varying opinions on this subject for sure. In the end, if you are wanting to build a half minute hunting rifle, don't bother with the threads. Face the action and use a good ground recoil lug. 90% of it is the barrel and a good chamber. If you want a competitive match rifle, it's best to start with a custom action.

If you are single pointing the threads, on your last spring pass, come back in and knock out your first thread or so. Do this at your final X axis depth. Now you or the next guy will have a measurable major diameter for your new opened up threads.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

i'm in the same school with dave tooley above. a square shoulder and looser threads will straighten everything up. put your efforts into making the face square.

 

[johnfred1965]

90% of it is the barrel and a good chamber.

I'm going to be a name dropper and say John Pierce told me the exact same thing when I sent him an action to barrel up. It isn't a benchrest gun, but i Have shot some groups in the .3's which is great for F-class! It is now my favorite rifle and I like to give the guy a plug every chance I get, weather he needs it or not!

 

[TAJ45]

I'm sure the difference in price is the quality. Looks like the Amazon ones are imports. The Brownells is a USA made tap. Gotta be careful with import taps...

Be aware of "Cleland" and "Cleveland".
I didn't pay attention and was snookered. Cleland ain't US...at least their drills weren't.

 

[Shawnba67]

I did not look at the links but I have been screwed on a tap by not checking the H value. Watch those. It is how much oversize the tap will cut.

 

[carlsbad]

Those taps are very useful for cleaning glue from the threads. They will also ensure there are no burrs that could cause galling. I have one I use on dirty threads. I don't bother on new threads. --Jerry

 

[GenePoole]

If you are single pointing the threads, on your last spring pass, come back in and knock out your first thread or so. Do this at your final X axis depth. Now you or the next guy will have a measurable major diameter for your new opened up threads.

I go one better and mark the new size on the receiver.

 

[eddief]

Better is debatable. Marking the receiver is nice, but a lot of my customer builds get cerakote after. That mark would be blasted off during prep and covered right up. I prefer to be able to verify with calipers for the major O.D.

 

[Rich S]

Just wondering if one of these is the same thing Brownell's sells for a bit more? I'm getting setup to screw my first rifle together and I'm not all that comfortable picking up and truing the inside threads just yet. My thought is to cut the barrel tenon and chamber, true the receiver face and lug abutments and face and go from there. I want to tackle it but NOT bite off more than I can currently chew.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLNJAVU/?tag=accuratescom-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0735K1MY9/?tag=accuratescom-20

Unless your set on not single point cutting the threads, Id practice picking up and cutting ID threads. Set up of the action takes more time than cutting the threads and truing the face and lug abutments. I set up a small piece of pipe and cut threads then practiced picking them up before I did my 1st one. Its no harder than threading the tennon. I use a full profile insert run at 70 rpm. That eleminates having to bore before threading. Check out the you tube videos Suar08161991 posted on truing a 700 action. He does a decent job explaining how to set up to cut the threads. If you end up cutting them, you may want to consider going to 1.075. That should be enough to clean up any reciever and seems to be a common size for replacement lugs. By making a go gage any reciever you open up will be standardized for you.

 

[Danny1788]

Like others have said above, I too own a tap for cleaning out the glue and gunk from the threads on old actions. I also have a PTG truing kit and ive single pointed the receiver and left the threads untouched. I cant see the difference on paper with the hunting rifles Ive built, all have shot good. I have the mind set just like Dave T. square shoulders and loose threads make for everything lining up square when torqued down. Take more time in setup of the barrel and making it run true to the bore and being held stress free will be more important then oversized or cleaned up threads, That's just my opinion and how I do things.