Rebarreling questions

[VaTech]

I have a Savage 12 LPV in 308 and would like to order a 6 BR barrel. I have done a great deal of reading here and the 6mmBR website and have learned a great deal. The goal of this would be to have less recoil for long target days and still have some punch for varmints at longer ranges 300-600yds. I think I have settled on the shilen pre-fit. I called shilen to get the reamer dimensions, for the .272" "no-turn" neck would have a freebore of .073" My question is what bullets will I be able to shoot with this set up? I had originally planned on a 8" ratchet twist but might go slower of the freebore will only allow lighter bullets.

Additionally the factory stock has a decent pillar bedding job and when I replace the barrel I was planning on bedding the action, with a new SSS recoil lug. I have read the "stress free" article and has been a great help but I was interested in how to hold the action if the pillars have already been installed? I was planning on roughing up the surfaces to be bedded, tape the tang and free float the barrel, and hold the action as normal with the screws? Will this give adequate results?

Thanks in Advance for any and all help.
Scott

 

[NateHaler]

You might find some good info here: http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/

 

[Rustystud]

Scott:

There is a wealth of information available on this board. The owner and chief moderator is a Savage man. You might look throught all the forums,including the 6mm threads) on this web sight. There are a couple of Guns of the week that are also Savages. What you are talking about is a common barrel switch. Remmber the 6mmBR is a fine cartridge in several configuations. With shorter light bullets you need a slower twist 12-14 and with long bullets you need a faster twist 8-9. In my not so humble opinion a custom barrel is a step above a prefitt barrel. There are many fine barrels available in both button and cut rifling.

Nat Lambeth

 

[Hammer]

Rustystud,

Think what we need is an adjustable twist barrel.

Shotgunners have screw-in chokes or even the older poly choke.

What we need is a dial in twist with a range from 16" to 6" so we can optimize the twist for each bullet and load.

And a telescoping barrel which contracts to 16" and extends to 40".

Thoughts ?

.

 

[Rustystud]

Hammer:

I thought that was what your tool chest was all about. You remember your hammer and screw Driver barrel changing method.
Rustystud

 

[Hammer]

.

I thought I wasn't supposed to talk about that any more.

Here I was being good before Christmas.

Come to think of it, been good for a long time.


.

 

[drano38]

Scott,
Welcome, and do like I do--read most threads on this forum daily--huge source of knowledge. And the search feature is also your friend.
Anyway, I have a Savage w/ a 6.5 Swede PacNor barrel, and a 6 Dasher from Benchmark.
Yes, the 6BR will give you less recoil, and still reach out there,w/ ballistics about like, or better than a .308).
For 600 yards, you want the 105/107 gr bullets from Berger, Sierri, Hornady, etc. For that you need an 8 twist. And Dave Kiff from Pacific Tool and Gauge who built my Dasher reamer, said .104" freebore is very good for those big bullets. If you use the .073 reamer, the base of your bullet may be below the neck of the case, eating up powder room, and hitting the doughnut that can form as thicker shoulder brass flows into the neck.
I'd suggest finding a barrel maker who has a .104" freebore .272" neck reamer. PacNor, SSS,Douglas), McGowen, Benchmark and Shilen are all really good barrels. But the reamer needs to optimize your loaded round. And those 105gr bullets work better with about a .104" freebore.
If you really want 600 yard shooting, make the barrel for .104" freebore. Select a barrel company from above who will do that. Or have Pacific Tool and Gauge make you a reamer--the best option. I'll never chamber a barrel again w/o my own reamer.
Good luck
drano

 

[Rustystud]

Scott:

You have several good gunsmiths within a hours drive that you can mentor with. I would suggest you share a day or too with a seasoned gunsmith.
There are several books and videos also available.

Willis Fowlers', book is a little outdated but is very good.

Steve Ackers', book is eccellent

Gordy Gritters', Video is real good.

John Hinnants; book has already been mentioned.

There are several others. Many from the 1930s thru the 1960s.

Rustystud

Rustystud

 

[tmbryant]

You can shoot a 107 gr bullet with a .073" freebore reamer especially if the chamber is cut with a no turn neck reamer. The bullet may seat below the shoulder slightly but that's not a problem. When using a reamer that has to have the case neck turned then freebore becomes more of a problem in that you don't want the base of the bullet seating below the area that has been neckturned. Seating into this doughnut area of the neck will cause pressure and accuracy problems with a neckturned case, but not with an unturned neck with adequate neck clearance. My 6 BR reamers have .060" freebore and will handle long bullets easily. They will also handle short range benchrest bullets in the 68 gr range depending on ogive configuration of the bullet. The .073" freebore will be iffy on being able to shoot bullets in the typical 62 to 68 gr short range benchrest bullet range.