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REAR SAND BAG

I have a REM 700 Kreiger barrel 6BR. I have about a 1/8" wobble on the target at 100 yards due to holding and squeezing the rear bag. Is there something I can do to get a steady hold. More sand?
 
If you have to squeeze a lot, it isn't going to be steady. What you want is to have the height if whatever you are shooting from in the front and the height of your rear sandbag such that you are barely squeezing, if at all.

If your rear bag is rocking side to side or front to back, you have to change something. Could be too little sand, too much sand, bottom of the bag rounded, etc. each has a different cure.

One thing that you might look into is a rear bag stabilizer. http://www.sinclairintl.com/shooting-rests-bipods/sand-bags/sand-bag-accessories/otto-rear-bag-stabilizer-prod34998.aspx

I know one guy that, in informal shooting, has a bag with a piece of 1" thick hard rubber glued to the bottom and he wood screws it to the wooden bench at their range.
 
I went with a rear bag stabilizer & it stopped all wobble of rear bag . Best up grade possible.
 
Webster said:
I have about a 1/8" wobble on the target at 100 yards due to holding and squeezing the rear bag. Is there something I can do to get a steady hold.

Put it in a vise? Get yourself a rail gun?

BTW, one of the best BR shooters on the west coast is a bag squeezer. It's about technique as much as equipment. Otherwise, you may as well not be involved in making the shot.
 
Wobble in the rear bag? Sounds like either the ears are too loose and when you squeeze the stock is lifted up off the ears Or the bottom of the bag is round. Both can be fixed.
 
Webster said:
How do I get the bottom of the bag flat if it's rounded?

Jerry Kloppell taught me this trick, cut a piece of plywood that fits inside the supported outer in the center of the bag. Shape it to fit just in the soft center area. Then soak the outside double reinforced edge by laying on a wet rag for about a day or so. Then set the bag on the wood block and let it dry for a week or so. It will reshape by gravity as it drapes over the edge of the block.
 
I left the bipod and sling on for a quick photo. I don't think the front bag is a problem. It's related to the rear bag and my sqeezing it. Same wobble with a front bag or bipod. I put a block of wood under the front bag for more elevation. It's not part of the problem.

I put a straight edge under the bag and it looks flat. Just noticed for the first time the bottom of the bag is sunk down under the ears. Never paid attention to this before. The rear bag is a protektor (model 13B?). I think part of the problem is my horsing the bag around to make large adjustments and under fill of the lower bag? If I can straighten this wobble out if feel I can get closer to the potential of the rifle. The rifle shoots much better than I can hold it. I still have poor trigger pull after 40 years. The 6BR barrel was put on in the fall of 2009 by Kelbly. It has about 900 shots down the tube. With crosshair movement on the target at 100 yrds I still shoot many groups under 0.25" but I average around .350-.400" because I can't hold the rifle still on the bags. It more than good enough for GH hunting but it's hard to work up loads that are good for about 0.25" when you know they are about .2" bigger than they should be because of a poor hold when the gun fires.
 

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I would add some sand to the bottom of your bag, and order one of these. http://webpm.fatcow.com/ProtektorModel/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=252
The idea was invented by a skilled benchrest shooter, who is no longer with us, Skip Otto. Some accomplished benchrest shooters use them. I presume that when you are set up to shoot, without the sling, that your rear sling swivel stud is not touching the bag at all.
 
I agree, the rear bag base needs more sand. These stock designs are difficult to minimize movement in the bags without an accessory like Hart's "Accuracy Asset", or Sinclairs "Forend Benchrest Adapter" which require a 3" front bag. The problem is associated with a poor stock fit on both bags.....usually moving the front bag closer to the action (a shorter stance) helps because the forend gets wider and flat. I remove the swivel studs, especially the rear one.....this is where the rear bag ears should ride....not anywhere near the pistol grip. A lighter trigger pull will also help reduce group size. Also tapping the butt into the rear bag with the palm of your hand will give more contact with the ears. Lastly, make sure your rear bag is far enough away from the edge of the bench so your upper body is not making unintended contact.
 
You may want to try a mini gator rear bag. They are very stable and have a grab handle to carry them by. I'm not saying they are the best, only offering that they may alleviate your problem. Make sure the stitching matches your stock width.
 
I have had several of that model of Protektor and you will not get it stable without a leather "donut" or a bag stabilizer. More sand will make the bottom round out more and make the problem worse, but I think more sand and a stabilizer is the key. Either that, or call Protektor and order a "Doctor" bag with a handle, like mine. Filled with their heavy sand, it's about 22 pounds. The bottom is thick and extra rigid and flat. I use it for F-class and bench rest.

Also are you using your bipod like rails on the front or was that just for the photo? If the former, I'd take that off and get some sort of "accuracy asset" that gives you a benchrest type flat area under the forend. Sinclair makes one, called the Forend Benchrest Adapter. It hitches to your front swivel stud hole with a screw. You'll want to get a front bag that fits it, however.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/shooting-accessories/benchrest-equipment/forend-benchrest-adaptor-prod35661.aspx
 

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