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Rear entry... action wrenches..

Which reminds me, I need to schedule a colonoscopy..

My last 2 remages I made this frankenstein looking thing to hold the action so I could torque it.. On my new build I'm thinking of ordering a rear entry action wrench. I guess these are safe to use as long as you make sure to keep it in-line with the barrel/action? Looks like 40-50 ft lbs is the recommended for a remage.
 
I use the Short Actions Customs, seems to work OK. I set my torque wrench to 50 pounds and if I have done my math correctly for the nut wrench extension should be about 58 pounds.
 
Best in my experience is the one from pbike on this site. You might not be able to get him but his dad is uthinkuknow and he can probably fix you up.
 
Which reminds me, I need to schedule a colonoscopy..

My last 2 remages I made this frankenstein looking thing to hold the action so I could torque it.. On my new build I'm thinking of ordering a rear entry action wrench. I guess these are safe to use as long as you make sure to keep it in-line with the barrel/action? Looks like 40-50 ft lbs is the recommended for a remage.
I got one scheduled for 4/10….foolishly for the day after Easter.
 
They look like this for torque wrench on the left and tee handle on the right. The tee handle outsells the 1/2 inch recess drive for torque wrench by 8 to 1.
 

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Made all of mine on Lathe and mill. Remington, Nesika, Howa, Mauser, Kimber, Bat, etc. Also have outside ones for tough jobs. Outside ones work the best, but not always needed.
 
Best in my experience is the one from pbike on this site. You might not be able to get him but his dad is uthinkuknow and he can probably fix you up.

Now I’m curious. What makes it better than others? I’m always in favor of supporting forum members who have innovative ideas
 
I can’t or won’t venture what the “other guys” do but our wrenches are hardened so that they are able to separate factory barrels from actions without destroying the action or the wrench. We also have the action dimensions from the manufacturer or from the dimensions of the actual bolt. Ours will remove the barrel without having to remove the action from the stock.
For our BR rifles we don’t even remove the scope.
 
I can’t or won’t venture what the “other guys” do but our wrenches are hardened so that they are able to separate factory barrels from actions without destroying the action or the wrench. We also have the action dimensions from the manufacturer or from the dimensions of the actual bolt. Ours will remove the barrel without having to remove the action from the stock.
For our BR rifles we don’t even remove the scope.
Where can I get one of these?
 
I made mine on a mill for Remington 700 ...it has the profile of the bolt lugs and engages the front and rear bridges for complete engagement for the full length of the 700 action...must make a slitting saw groove for the anti-bind device in the reciever... a hex is milled on the tool, to put a tork wrench on it.
I don't do the Ramage setup...but use this to tork the action down to the barrel with a recoil lug the standard way... use a recoil lug fixture to hold it in place as the action is torked down ...I use 95 ft/lbs ...cause it works for me, and holds those 30" heavy palma barrels, & long heavy MTU barrels, nice, precise, and easy to use.
 
I can’t or won’t venture what the “other guys” do but our wrenches are hardened so that they are able to separate factory barrels from actions without destroying the action or the wrench. We also have the action dimensions from the manufacturer or from the dimensions of the actual bolt. Ours will remove the barrel without having to remove the action from the stock.
For our BR rifles we don’t even remove the scope.
How much for a T-Handle angled for a Borden BRM action and how long is the wait?

Dave
 
One factor that makes a rear entry wrench better than other styles of wrenches is one that is seldom or never mentioned. When properly used, the rear entry wrench is inserted to a point just off of contact with the stub of the barrel. Or come in contact with the barrel stub and back up about 1/10 on an inch. Now all the torque is applied to the barrel with no twisting on the action. I don’t know if you can ruin an action by applying the torque when the wrench is well of that point or not but I can see an action getting twisted And that’s not good.
 

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