Reamer with wrench on carriage bolt?

[mram10]

I was told that a piloted reamer pushed into the barrel via tailstock with the back of reamer in a wrench and being pushed by a carriage bolt works great. Said the pilot does the work to make the reamer run true. Thoughts?

 

[carlsbad]

You're describing the bald eagle or rockjag reamer holder. --Jerry

 

[wi50]

My very first chamber job I did with a 3/8" socket extension, the wobble kind. I cut the driven end off, and I ground the corners off the square drive to allow it to float a bit. Then a 3/8 drive socket to hold the reamer and hold the extension in the drill Chuck in the tailstock. It worked fine. I bought a floating holder after that, but to get going and not spend much it works fine. I'll still start a chamber that way if its a big chamber.

 

[wi50]

I'm sure someone will see a problem with the ground wobble extension, but the barrel is dialed in, the reamer can float if needed. That little 6br won a lot of local f class matches.

 

[ridgeway]

Prebore a hole with a boring bar and the reamer will follow the true hole regardless of bushing.

 

[DaveTooley]

I hold a reamer with a Sinclair case holder used for turning necks and extend one side. Clamped on the cylinder section. I want the reamer to spin if I get a to aggressive with the feed. Wrenches scare the hell out of me.

 

[mram10]

Interesting guys. I always wonder about the response to some methods. His guns shoot very well, but wasn’t sure if it is a common method

 

[clowdis]

A bushing will hold the reamer concentric with the bore in the throat area. If you allow the back end of the reamer to "float" out of alignment with the bore then the chamber will be too large in the back near the case head. Floating reamer holders will allow the back end of the reamer to float, hopefully to align with the bore, but in my mind if it floats it can go either way, depending on whether or not you tend to push it in any direction but straight. A carriage bolt for a pusher? I don't think so. Thankfully barrels are pretty tolerant of a lot of different approaches to chambering. Sometimes they still shoot pretty well in spite of a poor chambering job. Brass on the other hand will tell a different story.

 

[Shawnba67]

I made a bald eagle type thing. Was a aluminum cyl bored out to hold reamer with a bolt to hold it and be a handle like the wrench. (If i did again id use a sub flush set screw and hold cylnder with my hand so could spin if needed). with a ball bearing in the end pushed by a flat headed ejector pin. I had the pin but you could make a pusher real easy like. Youve got the lathe, we can all use some extra practise. You can buy a "tooling ball" might not be right term.
Ball bearings are round and hard also and cheap.
There are a thousand ways to skin this cat try a few. Check for on size chambers and for reamer/set up induced runout use whichever one you like best as long as it has acceptable results.
I use a floating reamer from ebay at the moment. My last chamber had .0002 runout at the lead neck and base. Good enough for me.