Really stupid "do I have enough adjustment" question.

[mattri]

Been on 7 12s for almost a month- not an excuse for such a dumb question but I need to double check everything at this point.

Projected loads should see a drop of +/- 24 MOA @ 1k.

Scope is listed as having 50 MOA total adjustment.

This means that with 50 MOA of total elevation, I'll see 25 MOA on either side of a theoretical zero, so just about the outer envelope of what "might" be within the total range without going to a MOA rail correct?

Not saying I'm going to bank on that last 1 MOA being there- just making sure I'm not way off in left field.

Thoughts?

 

[Will]

In theory that is correct but ... if you have used any windage that will take away from the vertical you have. Don't know if there is a formula for knowing the reduction but I have learned you will not have full elevation adjustment available if you have used windage. If it were me I'd get a 20MOA base and then you'd have plenty of adjustment.

 

[watercam]

FWIW. With a 20 moa base I am right about 35 minutes up out of 45 minutes available w/ a 6mm/107 gr./.550BC/3160 fps load. W/ my Palma load make it about 38 minutes.

 

[sscoyote]

Get some Burris Pos-Align rings with the offset insert kit and use them with an unlimited amount of MOA offset in the rings up to a total of ~40. That's the easiest and possibly best solution. Has worked for me many times in all sorts of rigs with nary a lick of trouble.

 

[mr45man]

+ 1 what Will said
John H

 

[NateHaler]

Been on 7 12s for almost a month- not an excuse for such a dumb question but I need to double check everything at this point.

Projected loads should see a drop of +/- 24 MOA @ 1k.

Scope is listed as having 50 MOA total adjustment.

This means that with 50 MOA of total elevation, I'll see 25 MOA on either side of a theoretical zero, so just about the outer envelope of what "might" be within the total range without going to a MOA rail correct?

Correct. However, you do NOT want to put yourself and that scope in that dilemma. Tilt the scope's objective down, using a 20 MOA canted scope base, or rings if you prefer. Then your short range zero will still be within the scope's dialing capability, and you'll have probably quite a bit more buffer for the long range shots, i.e. 35 MOA total.

What do some of us do when the scope runs out of 'up' at long range even so? We use the reticle, if practical, to hold over. My mildot-reticle-equipped scope has served me well numerous times in that respect. Not as precise as dialing in the adjustment, but at 1,000y, that's probably the least of my worries.

 

[fredhorace77]

+1 for Will and sscoyote

 

[Moonshine]

As several other people have posted a 20 MOA rail should solve all your problems. As well the Burris Signature rings should work as well with the right offset.

 

[BigDMT]

A quick check of total scope adjustment will tell you if you are running out or not. Leave windage where it is then,

1) Lock it in a gun vise or solid bench rest and look through the scope.
2) Dial the elevation "UP" from your zero point and watch the reticle move downward as you count every click.
3) When the reticle stops moving, stop counting and divide the total number of clicks counted by your scope's elevation adjustment value whether it is 1/8 MOA ( divide by 8 ) or 1/4 MOA ( divide by 4 )

That will give you your "true" amount of MOA of adjustment available from your zero point. Is it enough? Even if you only need 24 MOA and you count 27-30 MOA, I'd still recommend getting a 20 MOA rail as others suggested. Should probably have one either way so that you are closer to your optic's zero point when shooting long range. The closer you are to zero on a scope, the clearer you picture will be, especially at long range.

 

[mattri]

Thanks for all the good replies, ordered a 20 MOA base ystdy.