Quick question 40X
- Thread starter Pyscodog
- Start date
Pyscodog
Gold $$ Contributor
I don't know what this is?
HA. German torque is a guesstimation. Personally I just do it by feel and I might try something a little different if for some reason it didn't shoot as well as before.
A long time ago mid to late 70s my close friend started a Harley repair shop and we befriended an old guy that had been a lot of miles and at the time owned a Harley Davidson dealership. Shovelheads were the new ones at the time, AMF years. I'll never forget when my friend asked him what to torque heads at he just looked at us and said "torque em tight"
A long time ago mid to late 70s my close friend started a Harley repair shop and we befriended an old guy that had been a lot of miles and at the time owned a Harley Davidson dealership. Shovelheads were the new ones at the time, AMF years. I'll never forget when my friend asked him what to torque heads at he just looked at us and said "torque em tight"
There will be a bunch of people that will disagree. It just gave me a laugh and I told you my experience
The way I heard this was, "goodentight".
Pyscodog
Gold $$ Contributor
My old gunsmith buddy tightens them as tight as they will go then another half turn. As an old retired maintenance man, I have learned how to remove broken bolts. Amazing how tight some think a bolt needs to be. And how bad they can screw it up trying to get it out. LOL!
I read to maybe start around 25 inch pounds and and shoot groups, then increase a little and shoot. Watch for the groups to change as the torque goes up. Stop when the groups are the best. Sound reasonable?
I read to maybe start around 25 inch pounds and and shoot groups, then increase a little and shoot. Watch for the groups to change as the torque goes up. Stop when the groups are the best. Sound reasonable?
I got a friend who if you told him get it “goodentight” either the stock would crack or he’d rip the handle off the screwdriver.
I measure and record for each gun.
”I read to maybe start around 25 inch pounds and and shoot groups, then increase a little and shoot. Watch for the groups to change as the torque goes up. Stop when the groups are the best. Sound reasonable?”
sounds good, you might find a sweet spot.
I was only quoting what I once heard was "German torque".
Some people think "goodentight" sounds a lot like a German word.
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Pyscodog
Gold $$ Contributor
Nah, your good!!. Supposing I stay around just Texas, will I run across him?
I have a 40XB that was converted into a repeater to use V-22 magazines; it's in a Manners Elite tactical stock, bedded with Marine Tex, and sitting on aluminum pillars. I torque the actions screws on it to the same 55in/lbs front, 50 in/lbs rear that I use on my CF M700s & custom 700 clone actions. If you're going back into the factory wood stock without pillars, I wouldn't go any tighter than the 40in/lbs you're already at.
SGW Gunsmith
"Accipere non casus-Virga Bis"
Something to consider when dealing with an "all wood" stock. The capillaries in a, for example, walnut stock are open now open and can be a bit large, so one needs to think about the torque amount. Those capillaries will compress when too much torque is applied, and that can ruin your bedding, unless the stock is "pillar" , and even glass, or liquid steel bedded.
For all walnut stocks, especially .22 rimfire wood stocks, I prefer to bed the rear action and front action screw areas in the stock with Devon 10110 liquid steel and then install aluminum pillars. After that, you can use whatever amount of torque that "jerks your bobber", and the bedding will remain stable.
Next thing you might consider, is to seal the grain in the barrel channel with a good hardening epoxy. Then you can sand the compound to free float the barrel if so desired. That action will help prevent any moisture ingress in the barrel channel from wandering around.
Otherwise, and after all, it is a .22 rimfire, the tightening as mentioned in post #9 is a good idea. Tighten with finger pressure, and then after a day of shooting relax the action screws until ready to shoot again and then again, finger tighter. Many 'Ol "Smiths have found that to work very well.
For all walnut stocks, especially .22 rimfire wood stocks, I prefer to bed the rear action and front action screw areas in the stock with Devon 10110 liquid steel and then install aluminum pillars. After that, you can use whatever amount of torque that "jerks your bobber", and the bedding will remain stable.
Next thing you might consider, is to seal the grain in the barrel channel with a good hardening epoxy. Then you can sand the compound to free float the barrel if so desired. That action will help prevent any moisture ingress in the barrel channel from wandering around.
Otherwise, and after all, it is a .22 rimfire, the tightening as mentioned in post #9 is a good idea. Tighten with finger pressure, and then after a day of shooting relax the action screws until ready to shoot again and then again, finger tighter. Many 'Ol "Smiths have found that to work very well.
Like a German wife.
Yea, heard that too.
SGW Gunsmith
"Accipere non casus-Virga Bis"
My wife is German (Bauer), and for some reason, she's very good with an OVEN.
snert
Silver $$ Contributor
When I bought a 40XB used, and removed the stock, I called the custom shop in Ilion, back when they still actually did good work (35 years ago). The smith told me to just tighten them up with a normal length gunsmith screwdriver and go shoot it. If it didn't shoot, call him back. I never called him back.
On a side note, there was a day that I grabbed the gun from the safe and noted a bit of "wiggle" as I lifted it by the barrel. Yep, dry conditions and the screw was about a quarter turn loose. I followed his directions again, and with a small POI change, I still did not need to call him.
On a side note, there was a day that I grabbed the gun from the safe and noted a bit of "wiggle" as I lifted it by the barrel. Yep, dry conditions and the screw was about a quarter turn loose. I followed his directions again, and with a small POI change, I still did not need to call him.
If it's flooded bedded with pillows the right way torqe shouldn't make any difference because it should be sitting on the pillows metal to medal that's my experience over 40 years sometime I float the action from the front screw about a 1/2 inch in front of the sites and 1/2 behind the screw back to the rear screw with a 1/2 inch in front of it a what ever the tang takes and drill the pillows holes out big enough so the screws don't hit the side the pillow counter sink the bottom of them and screw heads to match the counter sunk holes s o it will self center it self center you should be able to slid a dollar from front to rear of your action of course you have to remove you trigger
That's the way I do it (the range test method, not as tight as it'll go plus 1/2 turn) except that I start at 12-15 in/lb for rimfire. I usually end up somewhere around 20, but have had one or two shoot best at as little as 12. Go too high and you might start crushing wood.
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