I'm trying to get my 6BRX up and running. heres the layout. Bat mb-action, Barrel chambered in 6brx .269 neck. So I turned the Lapua brass so the loaded round is .267. I then checked the potential OAL of loaded round by starting a bullet by hand and then chambering,(double checked this) Ogive tool gave me a length to which I added .20 to jam. I then put the brass through die with a .265 bushing. 30 grn Varget and out the door to test. It worked so I loaded the other 49 pcs of brass the same way and headed off to the range thinking "I got this one licked" but after the second one it started not going off. It seemed like a good set-up, I could feel a slight resistance on the bolt upon closure as if the bullet was out far enough? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Laurence. Oh yeah, the action was originally set up for a 6.5-284...This is a rookie question but is there a firing pin depth problem between the two cartridges?
Question regarding Fire Forming Problems
- Thread starter boogershooter
- Start date
Re: Question reguarding Fire Forming Problems
I can't answer the question for your particular problem when fire-forming 6BR to BRX, but I can tell you what works for me. Starting with virgin Lapua 6BR, in the blue box, or a light clean-up cut with the older cardboard box, .265" neck bushing to size necks, CCI450 primers, 31.5 grs. of Varget, 85 gr. flatbase bullets (not match quality), seated with a .010" jam & with the base of the bullet filling the case neck, to the bottom of the neck/shoulder junction. On the first firing the case is fully formed, with the case headspace length within .002" or .003" of what they will be after the second or third firing. Have not had a single mis-fire. Fireformed 60 so far, and have not lost a single case. Tried a .020" jam at first but had trigger problems with the firing pin dropping when carefully closing the bolt. Went to the .010" jam, and end of problem. p.s.: Thought more about your problem, and wonder what bullet you are using? If it's a boatail & your jamming .020", how much of the full .243" bullet diameter is contacting the case neck? That's the reason I prefer the FB bullets for fire-forming, full bullet to neck surface contact.
I can't answer the question for your particular problem when fire-forming 6BR to BRX, but I can tell you what works for me. Starting with virgin Lapua 6BR, in the blue box, or a light clean-up cut with the older cardboard box, .265" neck bushing to size necks, CCI450 primers, 31.5 grs. of Varget, 85 gr. flatbase bullets (not match quality), seated with a .010" jam & with the base of the bullet filling the case neck, to the bottom of the neck/shoulder junction. On the first firing the case is fully formed, with the case headspace length within .002" or .003" of what they will be after the second or third firing. Have not had a single mis-fire. Fireformed 60 so far, and have not lost a single case. Tried a .020" jam at first but had trigger problems with the firing pin dropping when carefully closing the bolt. Went to the .010" jam, and end of problem. p.s.: Thought more about your problem, and wonder what bullet you are using? If it's a boatail & your jamming .020", how much of the full .243" bullet diameter is contacting the case neck? That's the reason I prefer the FB bullets for fire-forming, full bullet to neck surface contact.
Re: Question reguarding Fire Forming Problems
I was useing 105 Berger boat tail match bullets and Wolf SRM primers, maybe part of the problem? Thank you Mr Shuster!
I was useing 105 Berger boat tail match bullets and Wolf SRM primers, maybe part of the problem? Thank you Mr Shuster!
Re: Question reguarding Fire Forming Problems
Laurence: I'm not saying that's the problem (how's that for a dis-claimer?
, ), but you may be losing the advantage of the .020" jam when not having full bullet to case neck length contact. Try a couple loaded the same way, except with a FB long enough to fill the neck.
Laurence: I'm not saying that's the problem (how's that for a dis-claimer?
, ), but you may be losing the advantage of the .020" jam when not having full bullet to case neck length contact. Try a couple loaded the same way, except with a FB long enough to fill the neck.Re: Question reguarding Fire Forming Problems
You Have a good point,Thank you again. I think I have some old .243 hunting bullets around here somewhere?
You Have a good point,Thank you again. I think I have some old .243 hunting bullets around here somewhere?
laurence: You might also try the next size smaller neck bushing. Measure the actual neck diameter after sizing with your .265" bushing. They are not always "true" to their ident markings, sometimes a little larger and sometimes a little smaller. So I guess I'm saying put a heavier pull on the seated bullet by one or both of these methods.
Thank you for the replies, I will let you know how it turns out.
Boogershooter
Any time your moving the shoulder forward like with a 6 BRX or 6 Dasher you run into the problem of rounds not going bang when you pull the trigger.When you pull the trigger the firing pin drops and it pushes the case forward in the chamber then dents the primer but it doesn't always go off.
You have two options.
First you can keep adding neck tension in order to hold the bullet into the neck of the case which will hold it against the boltface tighter in the hopes it will fire.
Or Two
You can put a false shoulder on your necks in order to do the same thing.
I just did 100 Dasher cases and 19 of them required a second time around to fire which is an abnormaly high number for myself.I suspect the primers which were all dented had some tough cups on them and that was part of the problem.
No matter what I still needed a second go at it.
No matter which method you use don't pre-fit your loaded rounds into your gun as this will move the bullet back or the false shoulder back and give you nothing but grief.That means use just one case to set your bullet seating length or false shoulder length and then load up the rest of your round without installing each one of them into the chamber.
Lynn
Any time your moving the shoulder forward like with a 6 BRX or 6 Dasher you run into the problem of rounds not going bang when you pull the trigger.When you pull the trigger the firing pin drops and it pushes the case forward in the chamber then dents the primer but it doesn't always go off.
You have two options.
First you can keep adding neck tension in order to hold the bullet into the neck of the case which will hold it against the boltface tighter in the hopes it will fire.
Or Two
You can put a false shoulder on your necks in order to do the same thing.
I just did 100 Dasher cases and 19 of them required a second time around to fire which is an abnormaly high number for myself.I suspect the primers which were all dented had some tough cups on them and that was part of the problem.
No matter what I still needed a second go at it.
No matter which method you use don't pre-fit your loaded rounds into your gun as this will move the bullet back or the false shoulder back and give you nothing but grief.That means use just one case to set your bullet seating length or false shoulder length and then load up the rest of your round without installing each one of them into the chamber.
Lynn
Also, The gunsmith was also helpful he said pretty much the same Three things. ...1) Smaller bushing, .264. 2) Longer seating, and, 3) softer cupped primers.I dont have a small bushing on hand and the next match is coming on fast so I was going to try some Federal primers, they are pretty soft right?
Well I went to "long as I could" seating, an some Federal match primers and it worked no problem! ;D
Lynn, Thank you for all the help and info. I am kinda new to the precision end of this reloading stuff, so its good to hear all the different methods and advice.I keep an open mind and am willing to listen and try almost anything to help with this one hole obsession! Thank you again and good shooting!
Laurence.
Laurence.
Oh by the way, I went to the range today and fire-formed the remainder of the 50 I had prepped without a hitch. Those old bullets I pulled out of the bottom drawer to use for this purpose sure seemed to copper foul the heck out of the new Brux though. Kinda breaks my heart to send that old junk down such a nice new barrel.
cooper fouling from old bullets happens easily because the ''old" surface on the bullet is oxidized copper and will come off in the barrel easier than the original copper jacket. some bullets seem to form this surface more than others. i tumble these bullets with media that i add some flitz or equivalent until they really shine, and note that copper fouling is less or not at all. also, we know that some barrels copper foul more than others. hand polish some of these dark orange bullets and you will be amazed at the amount of coating that comes off on the cloth instead of the barrel.
Loaded some more fresh brass today with some Bergers and had alot more fun being able to shoot some pretty good groups. I think I'll put those old vintage bullets back in the bottom drawer!
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