Question regarding an XP-100 tenon...

[ridgeway]

I am working through my first chamber job and have a question about the tenon. I am simply following the tenon dimensions from the custom barrel that was on my XP. I took a few measurements from the action and bolt nose and all the tolerances are spot on, hence the reason I'm copying the same tenon.

My question is, can a fully threaded tenon work or does it need to be machined how I have it? Is it machined like this(pictured below) to provide clearance for the front action screw if needed? Could I simply run a full threaded tenon and mill clearance for the front action screw to assure there is no issue with contact?

Just not sure why the long thread relief prior to the threads...

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

I am working through my first chamber job and have a question about the tenon. I am simply following the tenon dimensions from the custom barrel that was on my XP. I took a few measurements from the action and bolt nose and all the tolerances are spot on, hence the reason I'm copying the same tenon.

My question is, can a fully threaded tenon work or does it need to be machined how I have it? Is it machined like this(pictured below) to provide clearance for the front action screw if needed? Could I simply run a full threaded tenon and mill clearance for the front action screw to assure there is no issue with contact?

Just not sure why the long thread relief prior to the threads...

Yes, you could do that once you figure out where to index the clearance for the front action screw.

 

[Preacher]

Keep the screws the correct length and don't worry about the short threaded tenon...

 

[DOGCAPPER]

I owned a East German SSG 82 in 220 Russian that had a long unthreaded section in the receiver..The tenion resembled your picture except the smooth portion was 3x longer. Did not shoot. LT

 

[ridgeway]

Keep the screws the correct length and don't worry about the short threaded tenon...

They are now...they weren't prior to me removing the barrel awhile ago. There are marks on the barrel tenon showing where the screw made contact.

After I cut the threads off, it dawned on me as to why. I looked inside the action and noticed the threads only went so deep. And figured that was why. I looked again and in reference to the front action screw, threads went past, so concluded this is not why and it had to be relief from the action screw.

I saw a picture of a factory XP barrel machine like this. I'm guessing this was Remington's solution for clearance when tightening in a plastic stock with no pillars where screw depth was inconsistent due to stock compression?

Thanks for the tips guys!

 

[WayneShaw]

I like getting all I can out of the front XP screw. I thread the whole thing, torque it up, mark the screw location, then mill out the area for the screw, after taking it out of course....

 

[ridgeway]

I like getting all I can out of the front XP screw. I thread the whole thing, torque it up, mark the screw location, then mill out the area for the screw, after taking it out of course....

If I do another barrel, I will do it this way rather than short thread.

A couple other questions to the experienced regarding my first chamber experience...

When running in the reamer, how fast do you run the reamer in? I was going really slow and was pulling out at .050 in my prebored hole at the beginning. Once the reamer was cutting the entire chamber with the entire flute length, I removed every .020" to clean. Does this sound on par? When getting down to the knitty gritty, I went in .010 and finished the last couple thousands by pushing the reamer in by hand while holding in the inch button on the lathe. I did it this way to get a feel for the reamer cutting. Not sure if this a good idea or not. I actually went .004" too deep and took that amount off my tenon shoulder to compensate. The same on the counterbore and end of tenon. Ended up with .0005" run out. Hopefully that will get better with more barrels?

Should I run some fine scotch brite inside the chamber? I don't have a bore scope to look inside, but looking in there with light, I have a mighty smooth chamber inside. It actually looks nicer than the barrel I took off.

 

[noload]

Nice looking job, very nice for your first, Your reamer feed sounds right. Next you will be thinking of pointing the bow up at 12 o' clock time when the action is screwed tight to the barrel....this will keep the windage turret set the same regardless of the distance you shoot. Its better to have the barrel banana point up than sideways. Also you are less likely to run out of (up clicks) at far distances. Pat

 

[ridgeway]

Nice looking job, very nice for your first, Your reamer feed sounds right. Next you will be thinking of pointing the bow up at 12 o' clock time when the action is screwed tight to the barrel....this will keep the windage turret set the same regardless of the distance you shoot. Its better to have the barrel banana point up than sideways. Also you are less likely to run out of (up clicks) at far distances. Pat

I did that, but went about .005 too deep with the reamer and took it off the tenon shoulder. My 12 o'clock index is probably at 9 o'clock, lol. I learned a lot from the first one and will continue to refine my process. In hind sight, I probably would have been OK with a deeper chamber. I just wanted to be able to utilize my older brass from my BR rifles.

Anyhow, the entire build turned out pretty nice...the muzzle tapers to 1.062. I have 10 fireforming loads ready to go...just hope it shoots as well as the 6BR barrel I took off!