question on method for opening up a barrel channel

[MildBill]

I have a Rem 700 with the varmint contour barrel in 223 ackley.

I have not found a drop right in stock that I like ergonomics of the comb and grip area for it yet, and have tried several.

I have a stocky lamintated hart accublock sporter stock, the barrel channel is for a sporter, a rock creek #4 is just a little snug in it.

anyway I really like the ergonomics of the comb and grip area of this stock, tried to convince stockys they should make a varmint contour channel version of this stock, to no avail.....

so...

there appears to be enough meat in the forend to be able to open the channel up for a varmint contour barrel.

is there a relatively easy, low risk of boogering something up method to do this?

Thanks

 

[vtmarmot]

Low risk? That is the heart of the matter. Just about any of the methods are slow and like other stock work, the faster you go, the greater the chance you'll booger it up. I have tried various carving tools, a large round rasp, and several Brownell's purpose-built tools. The Brownell's tools are the best, but require care that they don't ride up over the edge of the channel and mess it up.

Take your time.

 

[jlc204]

I've opened up a couple of barrel channels by using a wood dowel of appropriate diameter wrapped with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Worked very well with a wood laminate stock. Just clamp the stock down so it's sturdy and doesn't move as you're sanding.

 

[DocBII]

MildBill,

Second jlc204. I've done a couple this way.

HTH,
DocBII

 

[MrMajestic]

I'll third this. I use deep sockets of the appropriate diameter. Make sure the sand paper stays taught so as not to wallow it out. Works like a charm for me!

 

[M-61]

I'll 4th it. Time, checking, and rechecking and the chances of making a mess are small at best.

 

[shortgrass]

The least risky way is to take it to a gunsmith that goes stock work. Even though it's a laminate, the 'raw" area should be properly re-sealed. Stockys doesn't make 'um, they just sell 'um.

 

[Lapua40X]

Another vote for jlc204's method. I use progressively larger dowel rods (usually starting with 80 grit paper) and work slowly with deliberate even pressure. With the stock held firmly in place it has worked very well for me. When I have to remove a lot of material I sometimes start with a half round rasp but finding a rasp that's the proper size and shape can be difficult.

 

['Freak]

The best performing of anything I’ve tried since graduating from sandpaper on assorted cylindrical or conical backers are the Gunline Bedding Tools (multiple disks scrapers) in sizes 3/4”, 7/8”, and 1”, so far.

 

[joshb]

I just ordered an 1 1/2 in. And a 1 1/4 in. Round end router bit, that I'm going to use to build my first stock ever. I've been a carpenter/builder all my life. Made countless custom cabinets and mouldings. Still, just the thought of pushing that bit into a nice piece of walnut gives me the shivers. Use the dowel method. Safe and easy, though I'd start with 60 grit.

 

[lightman]

Like the others, I used a dowel with sand paper until I could not find the correct size, then I started using deep sockets. Start with a course grade, finish with a finer grade, go slow and reseal the raw cut with something. It will cut quicker than you think, so check often and go slow.

 

[BoydAllen]

To give yourself a line to work to, you can use a pencil held at a constant angle to vertical, as you move it down the length of the barrel (on both sides. Tape off the top quarter inch or so of the channel and open up the areas that are not visible first. Then work the edges...carefully. Make sure that you have the stock firmly held in a padded vise or some other fixture. I think that most of my mistakes came from trying to hold the stock with one hand and the tool with the other. With the stock firmly secured at an advantageous work height and angle, you will have two hands free to control the tool. Take your time, and do not stay at it for longer than your patience would dictate. The other source of bad work is becoming bored, impatient,or both and rushing the job just to get it over with. Don't forget to reseal the stock in the areas where you have removed the finish. Good luck.

 

[Sniper338]

I've opened up a couple of barrel channels by using a wood dowel of appropriate diameter wrapped with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. Worked very well with a wood laminate stock. Just clamp the stock down so it's sturdy and doesn't move as you're sanding.

another for this... Ive done it several time... you can use sockets out of your tool box too, the longer ones of course... that way you have several sizes to play with, done that too.. wrap sand paper around em and slowly go to work with it... works great doing it these ways, hard to mess up if your understand what your trying to do..

 

[MildBill]

thanks for the different methods to consider.

I have done some smaller, or perhaps better described as less drastic opening of barrel channels before to float barrels etc.

 

[DogBuster]

Deep well socket to your desired opening.........

Sandpaper wrapped around socket.......

 

[Tnslim]

I used a 4" pipe nipple with a 1/4" rod welded into a "T" for a handle. Wrap with 60 grit and get after it. Worked very well for me as the "T" handle helped keep everything lined up and made using it much easier.

 

[StevenDzupin]

FYI. Double sided tape holds the sandpaper to those deep sockets very well.

The speeder handle lets you drive the sockets smoothly and saves your fingers.

Take your time and check progress often.

Regards,

Steve