.264 - .001 = .263 But, you'll want to allow for springback. So I wouldn't go any larger than .2625 unless you just don't do any annealing, then .262 would be best. IMHO To be more precise, you can measure what springback you get with your brass and better figure what it'll take to get that exact neck tension.what size expander mandrel 6.5 creedmoor for .001 neck tension?
The main thing I don't like about bushing dies is that they move the variations in neck thickness to the inside of the neck. Mandrels do the opposite.Try using different bushings without a mandrel if you have a bushing die.
True, but moot if you’re turning necks…The main thing I don't like about bushing dies is that they move the variations in neck thickness to the inside of the neck. Mandrels do the opposite.
The main thing I don't like about bushing dies is that they move the variations in neck thickness to the inside of the neck.
Hmmm. Does it affect what’s on the target? Also, a bushing is generally allowed to “float”… that is, it never sizes all the way down.The main thing I don't like about bushing dies is that they move the variations in neck thickness to the inside of the neck. Mandrels do the opposite.
Yup.True, but moot if you’re turning necks…
Yes, a FL sizing die will do the same thing to the neck and why it's best to use a mandrel afterwards and not use an expander ball. And the less you move the neck, the better before using a mandrel to get very low runout.That's not limited to a bushing die though, right? Wouldn't a standard FL die do the same thing? It's only undone by the mandrel or the expanding ball.
Though a bushing doesn't size all the way down, you still have the variances in neck thickness moved to the inside. That it doesn't go all the way down is good for avoiding the donut issue.Hmmm. Does it affect what’s on the target? Also, a bushing is generally allowed to “float”… that is, it never sizes all the way down.
I do anneal.264 - .001 = .263 But, you'll want to allow for springback. So I wouldn't go any larger than .2625 unless you just don't do any annealing, then .262 would be best. IMHO To be more precise, you can measure what springback you get with your brass and better figure what it'll take to get that exact neck tension.
I don’t use bushings,I use forster fl die,with 6.5 creedmoor I get less than .001 runout on the neck or lessTry using different bushings without a mandrel if you have a bushing die.
I don’t turn necksTrue, but moot if you’re turning necks…
Is this capable? I mean, it’s a 6.5x47 and not a creedmoor, but it’s pretty close.Though a bushing doesn't size all the way down, you still have the variances in neck thickness moved to the inside. That it doesn't go all the way down is good for avoiding the donut issue.
As far as effect on target, yes, there can be an effect on the target. The effect may not be detectable unless one is capable of shooting very small groups at very long distance. Or, is more easily detectable if the quality of the brass is poor, having large variations in neck thickness.
Dang. May have to try different mandrels for neck tensions, then. Or switch to bushing die and try different bushings.I don’t use bushings,I use forster fl die,with 6.5 creedmoor I get less than .001 runout on the neck or less
I don’t use bushings,I use forster fl die,with 6.5 creedmoor I get less than .001 runout on the neck or less
That's really amazing. What kind of cases do you use? Do you measure your necks?I don’t turn necks
Could uses a little improvement . . .Is this capable? I mean, it’s a 6.5x47 and not a creedmoor, but it’s pretty close.
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