Question on cleaning products

[fella5]

Okay... I'm new to shooting bolt action and I'm getting a Savage 12 F-Class 6BR. I've been shooting pistols and AR's and got hooked on long distance precision shooting by a member at a shooting club I belong to. My question is, I use KG and Slip 2000 on my current guns now. I have read post, articles on break-in, cleaning, etc and I always notice others mentioning products like Butch's Bore Shine, Wipe Out, 50BMG, Lock-Ease, etc. So can I just keep using the cleaning products I have now or should I purchase a separate cleaning product for my new rifle. Also for the lugs on the bolt, can I just use the oil I use for my other guns or does it have to be a grease type. I do have Shooters Choice grease that I use to use but is just on the bottom of my cleaning storage case One more dumb question... I never had to break-in a barrel since my AR's have CHF barrels, but do people use different cleaning products when they break-in a barrel suppose to general cleaning? Now i will just have to decide my break-in method since there are thousands of ways.... my way is just to go out and shoot, but I don't want to ruin my barrel

 

[BoydAllen]

First of all, the back of your lugs should get a very light coating of GREASE, not oil. As far as cleaning solvents go, if what you are currently using gets your barrel clean, I see no reason to change. There are a lot of solvents that will get the job done. One thing, make sure that you get a good cleaning rod guide, and have a good rod. As to break in, do it with other guns at the range, so that you have something to keep you occupied while waiting for the solvent to work, during your one shot and clean, and three shots and clean cycles. This is so you don't get too bored and rush the job. The purpose of one shot and clean is to expose any tool marks in the barrel to the action of a bullet, so that the sharp corners will be worn down a little,so that they won't tear copper off of bullets. If you don't get all of the jacket material out of the barrel after each shot, or group of shots, the jacket fouling that remains will cover the tool marks that you are trying to get at.

Having a little very light lubrication ( not wet, just a little residue) in the bore, but not the chamber can help keep so much copper from sticking on the first shot. Some benchrest shooters use a drop or two of Lock Ease (sold at NAPA auto parts I believe) after each cleaning to provide a little graphite lubrication for their first shot. After that the powder fouling does the job. In any case, what ever you use, I am talking about the same amount as if you put some oil on the outside of the barrel and then wiped all that you could off with a rag....almost none.

 

[fella5]

BoydAllen,

Thanks... I have a Dewey rod (36" for my AR), but will probably have to pick up a 44" one for this rifle. I ordered a Mike Lucas guide since I saw that on the review section, but that won't come in until mid October, so I will probably just pick up one at the store so I can break-in the rifle.