Pulling the chambering reamer.........

[TAJ45]

OK, bud has a lathe on the floor and has reamers from previous endeavors, many years ago. Both he and a friend put some "serious scratches" in ea of their last chamber job using the bud's lathe.

They did not stop the chuck before pulling when they "hit the mark" (indicator).
What is the best method to get a smooth chamber, not needing any serious polishing? Neither was doing any hogging, down to the last bit to finish the job.

Reamer was not nicked.......they both checked.

Coolant was not from the muzzle end, just the squirt from the headstock. The reamer was pulled, cleared of chips before the final cut.

Question #2. It is my contribution to try and figure out a tidy way to force coolant/oil in from the spider end. Any hints on that?? They both are very tidy types so it has to be nearly mess free. All suggestions/solutions invited.

 

[Gundoktr]

DO NOT stop the lathe before you extract the reamer! Let it run while backing out the tailstock. you need more than just a squirt of a GOOD quality cutting oil.

 

[Larryh128]

You also need to clear chips about every .020, re-lube liberally.

 

[carlsbad]

Gre-tan rifles is marketing a muzzle end flush system that has my interest. Flushing chips is always a good thing when you can do it.

http://gretanrifles.com/products/details.jsf

Tempted to make one myself but can't figure out how to make the rotation reliable enough that I don't eventually end up with the hose wrapped around the barrel.

---Jerry

 

[paperpuncher]

Gre-tan rifles is marketing a muzzle end flush system that has my interest. Flushing chips is always a good thing when you can do it.

http://gretanrifles.com/products/details.jsf

Tempted to make one myself but can't figure out how to make the rotation reliable enough that I don't eventually end up with the hose wrapped around the barrel.

---Jerry

Something like this will keep you from getting wrapped up http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEUBLIN-1-4-NPT-ROTARY-UNION-1106-048-401-NEW-/271413943169?pt=Pneumatic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item3f31881b81

 

[Rustystud]

There are many ways to skin a cat. There are chamber reamers made to be pulled. ie: reamers made to do M1 Garands and M1As. Many of the problems that I read about can be completely avoided if the reamers were properly cooled, lubed, cleaned, run at the correct speeds and feeds. Modern tool steel multi flute reamers are made to cut and not grind chambers. Learn about high pressure flush systems. I can speak from personal experience with multiple reamers with over 2,500 chambers cut without a regrind. They still cut great chambers. Nat Lambeth

 

[luckyshot52]

I'm fairly new to cutting chambers, but have a life time of machining, manufacturing, and managing of same. I have discovered two things that give me chambers so smooth and clean that I have to use 320 grit paper to rough up the chamber so it isn't too smooth. One is a drawing fluid (oil) that is thick like STP and two is stropping the edges of the reamer with pure copper before the final last several thousands being cut.
I don't use a pressure system and I use air to clean the reamer often while doing chamber. The reamers cut like cutting hot butter
A lot I learned from Gordy Gritters and some I've learned from my other experience. So far (knock on wood) all have been perfectly round and perfectly centered. If I get a !/4" group I look for what I did wrong. Best to date is 0.017 8)

 

[Eddie Harren]

"......I have to use 320 grit paper to rough up the chamber so it isn't so smooth."

Here Kitty Kitty Kitty.